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  #21  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:22 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Zealand
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassnewbz View Post
Yeah, that's what I mean. I don't really understand all the technicalities in terms of wattage and ohms and all that. Looking at the traynor/peavey combo I would have thought I had more wattage in the cab than the head just by the 350 vs the 200 but I don't get how all that works.

If that cab is decent though, and I could get a new head, or a better head, that'd be awesome. MP87, what kind of music do you play? Are you happy with the ampeg head?
Watts are a guide to performance but they are very subject to different rating schemes.

If you work on 100W per 10" being about the max any can take you won't be far wrong. Two tens getting 50W each is far louder than one ten getting 100W. That's it in a nutshell.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bassnewbz View Post
Another stupid question then, IPYF, how do you know what to play at if there is that much more power in the head vs the cab?
He uses his EQ to keep the lows in check. Lows cause the speakers to flap about on heavy notes and "fart" withiut making music. Before the fart there is distortion which is hard to hear in a loud environment or when your tone has distortion in it from amp or pedals.

You need to play at high volume by yourself to get a feel for how hard you can push it and be careful when playing with guitards.
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  #23  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:32 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassnewbz View Post
Another stupid question then, IPYF, how do you know what to play at if there is that much more power in the head vs the cab?
Not a stupid question at all. The key is in your ears and in your knowledge. This comes from being familiar with your amp. You need to discern it's limits and understand that if you exceed them that you could end up paying for repairs.

Most often the cab will tell you that it's in trouble. You'll hear it. The most common cause for this is overzealous use of the bass knob on most amps. Because you're a bass player you're going to want to boost that (it's in our basic programming somewhere) but usually all that does is get you a little warmer around the ankles while inside your speaker box all kinds of bad juju will be kicking off.

With my GK I have to keep the eq flat and pull out a lot of my 5-string contour which has a massive low mid boost attached to it. I also have to make sure that I'm not throwing the full weight of my active bass-preamp at my cab.

The most challenging part is where I reckon the most damage gets done to bass amps. It's when you end up in a room with other noisy musicians and you think to yourself 'I need to turn the whole thing up. I'm getting drowned out'. This is when you get everyone else to turn down instead, and if they won't you don't play with them.

Sorry for the blatant digression.
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  #24  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:41 PM
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It's stuff he needs to get figured out before he blows his rig up and wrecks his hearing. Too late for some around here but never too soon to learn.

The lowest bass knob is there for you to turn it down, not up! That's why I really don't like bass/mid/treble EQ. No flexibility to tailor the bottom end.
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downunderwonder View Post

The lowest bass knob is there for you to turn it down, not up! That's why I really don't like bass/mid/treble EQ. No flexibility to tailor the bottom end.
I assume this is primarily the reason why you're the #1 member of Team Trace Elliot.
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  #26  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:00 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Bassnewbz,
I looked at the L&M catalogue last night and realized the Traynor gear isn't that cheap. GK has the MB115 for $499 new. That might do it. You can return in 30 days if it doesn't work out at practice.
Here's some quick advice - an amp rated at 4 ohms can work with an 8 ohm cab (at reduced watts, which is why they usually will give you two ratings), two 8 ohm cabs or a 4 ohm cab. With a 4 ohm amp, you can't use a 4 ohm cab and 8 ohm cab as the amp would need to work at 2.67 ohms - you would need a 2 ohm amp for this to work - but, the 4 ohm cab would get more power than the 8 ohm cab so you may not get the result you want.
Most cabs are rated at the point where the voice coil of the speaker/speakers will melt, but the speaker may not mechanically handle that amount of watts. So a speaker cabinet rated at 400 watts may pop speakers at about 200 watts which is why the double the watts insurance mentioned previously may not be a bad idea. When cranking the amp, listen to the speakers. If they are making a farty noise, you'll need to turn down. As previously stated, be careful with the bass knob on the amp. You want to push the mid's button to get more warmth.
Good luck.
  #27  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:15 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Alberta, Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassnewbz View Post
Yeah, that's what I mean. I don't really understand all the technicalities in terms of wattage and ohms and all that. Looking at the traynor/peavey combo I would have thought I had more wattage in the cab than the head just by the 350 vs the 200 but I don't get how all that works.

If that cab is decent though, and I could get a new head, or a better head, that'd be awesome. MP87, what kind of music do you play? Are you happy with the ampeg head?
I'm happy with the pf500. We play a wide range of rock, we've even covered This could be anywhere in the world by AOF. The pf500 is solid state, whereas the traynor yba is a tube amp. Search tube vs. solid state if you're not sure of the differences. That kijiji ad seems like a good deal, especially if you could get a lower price for combining the head and cab. L&M have a good return policy and a great (and affordable) renting program....something to keep in mind if you want to test the waters. I am not affiliated with them, they have just been the best to deal with in my area by a long shot.

The pf500 is a 500 watt amp if it encounters a "low" 4 ohm resistance from the cab(s). It is only a 300 watt amp if it encounters a "bigger" 8 ohm resistance. To maximize volume I could stack two 8 ohm cabs (two 8 ohm in series is equivalent to 4 ohm). I would be getting 500 watts and pushing more air with twice the speaker area than one single 8 ohm cab. Search how to match head and cab or amp and speakers if you are still unsure.
  #28  
Old 02-08-2013, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Thanks a lot everyone for the feedback, tips and advice. I'll try and keep this all in mind, and the math will take a few more reads over to grasp, but I appreciate it all! I definitely feel a bit more versed in bass gear than when I started this thread.

I just need a bit more help in determining what to do with one of the previous kijiji ads that I came across.

The seller was asking $720 CAD for the Traynor YBA 200 head and Peavy 410TX cab, and will let it go for $600.
http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and...AdIdZ452912061

One of you said to jump on it if I could get it for that price, and there was another that said I could look into the new Ampeg (PF350, 500 or 800) heads and just snag the cab if possible.

Seeing as both will run me about the same price, which do you guys think would be best? I'd be leaning towards the Ampeg heads probably, because I'd prefer new over used, and I don't know much, but I would think Ampeg is the better name.

Any suggestions? And which would be best suited for that cab, between the Ampeg PF350, 500 or 800?

Thanks!
  #29  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Zealand
If you get the tube amp and don't like it you won't lose anything to trade, unlike a new Ampeg.
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  #30  
Old 02-09-2013, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Alright, thanks a lot man. I'm gonna go check out this rig tomorrow, chances are, I'll be coming home with it. My brother is going to be coming along, he knows more about the technicalities than I do, and he'll know a bit more of what to look for in terms of indicators of wear/damage. What specifically should I be looking at in terms of the head's condition to ensure it all works properly and such? My brother was saying to check and see that all the tubes light up, what else would be key indicators?
  #31  
Old 02-09-2013, 07:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Zealand
I don't know much can be told from looking. Ideally it makes a big bass noise! Bonus for being cosmetically nice.

Humming, scratching pots, might get the price knocked down.

Thinking back when I was looking at buying one...There was an early revision on the yba200 to yba200II, I forget the details but most were retro fitted with the revised bit. You better search up some better info.
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