Amp Voltage Question Sweden/US

Dr Funk · #1 08-12-2011, 03:37 PM

I just got an email from a fellow TBer that bought my Warwick TubePath 10.1. He is in Sweden, plugged the amp in said he saw a flash of blue light and that was it no sound and the fuse blew. He made no changes or modifications for his power (uh oh???). Any insight would be helpful I am not well versed in what modification may be needed to compensate for any voltage difference. I hope Jonathan can get it sorted out it's a great amp. Jonathan if you monitor this thread you may get some very knowledgeable and beneficial help.

billfitzmaurice · #2 08-12-2011, 03:39 PM

Sweden is 220v, we're 110v. Plugging a 110v device into 220v pretty much guarantees instant destruction.

Dr Funk · #3 08-12-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

Sweden is 220v, we're 110v. Plugging a 110v device into 220v pretty much guarantees instant destruction.

That's what I thought but was not positive. Oh boy, what a shame.

Wh4len · #4 08-12-2011, 03:57 PM

A bit of a correction here.

I bought the amp. On the back it says:
110v - T16AL
115v - T16AL x (this box is checked)
230v - T8AL

I got the T8AL fuse and changed it.

Quick flick of blue light from the "W" on the front, then nothing.
And no fuse blew.

nashvillebill · #5 08-12-2011, 04:16 PM

The T8AL is just the fuse! The fuse itself doesn't change any voltage or offer any other role, other than offering protection from major overcurrent. They merely specified that if the amp was operated under 220 volts, then the smaller fuse would be used.

Was there any selector switch for changing the voltage, or internal transformer taps? How did you go from the US flat-blade plug to the European round-prong plug--did you just get a new IEC cable and plug it in? If so, unless there was a selector switch changed, or transformer taps changed, then it certainly sounds like 220 volts was applied to a system set for 115.

edit: here is the manual http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/...ubepath_EN.pdf and they do not mention a selector switch. They just have a "mains in" IEC connector which to me is not a good idea, somebody can plug a 220 volt cord into it. Perhaps there was an internal transformer tap that should've been changed.

Wh4len · #6 08-12-2011, 04:25 PM

Bollocks!!!!

Pissed away 850$.
And shipping, and customs.

Well, you live you learn.

nashvillebill · #7 08-12-2011, 04:37 PM

Perhaps all is not lost! I would contact Warwick and send the amp to them--and also have them convert to 220V. (I do not think there would be a customs charge to send it to Germany, if they do not have a repair facility in Sweden).

Good luck!!

Wh4len · #8 08-12-2011, 04:38 PM

I really hope your right, gonna try the local musik shop tomorrow.

nashvillebill · #9 08-12-2011, 04:44 PM

Here is the schematic from the Warwick site, they show a selector switch which evidently is inside the unit. http://www.warwickbass.com/media/man...rom_H22270.pdf

Here is the link to Warwick service Warwick Basses Amps & Rock'n Roll

Dr Funk · #10 08-12-2011, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wh4len

Bollocks!!!!

Pissed away 850$.
And shipping, and customs.

Well, you live you learn.

Wow great help here, thanks for the schematic drawings. Don't give up yet just get it to a qualified tech. It still may be just a voltage change. I truly do hope so for your sake no real damage was done.

AlexanderB · #11 08-12-2011, 05:16 PM

Correct data for Sweden is 230 volts, 50 hertz. A lot of the modern electronic devices (including some bass gear) is universal. This was not.

Wh4len · #12 08-14-2011, 12:56 PM

Well, I got it to a tech.

I explained what happend, and he asked me if I felt any burnt smell. I didn't, so he told me it would probably be alright.

I'll now more during the week.

Important lesson learned, to say the least.

Jonathan

Dr Funk · #13 08-14-2011, 02:51 PM

Hopefully all will turn out well for you.
Please let us know how it turns out.

**B-string** · #14 08-14-2011, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wh4len

Well, I got it to a tech.

I explained what happend, and he asked me if I felt any burnt smell. I didn't, so he told me it would probably be alright.

I'll now more during the week.

Important lesson learned, to say the least.

Jonathan

So many things could be said here......I hope it turns out well (no major damage). You REALLY gave no consideration that the mains voltage could be different? Really? You just plugged it in with some form of power plug adapter?
I've repaired a couple keyboards for a Danish man that winters here (all age related problems), he has step up transformers just due to this. Are the Danes smarter than the Swedes? Never mind......typed more than I intended to.

BassmanPaul · #15 08-14-2011, 03:55 PM

if you look closely at the main inlet socket there may well be a small link that says 120V. Pulling the link out and turning it over it may say 240V. Replacing it with the 240V side up changes the taps on the transformer. Not all amps are so equipped but some are. The amps is definitely switchable. I hope your problems are not so expensive to fix. Good luck!

delta7fred · #16 08-14-2011, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wh4len

Well, I got it to a tech.

I explained what happend, and he asked me if I felt any burnt smell. I didn't, so he told me it would probably be alright.

I'll now more during the week.

Important lesson learned, to say the least.

Jonathan

Looking at the schematic there are some internal fuses so hopefully these have prevented any damage.

Dr Funk · #17 08-20-2011, 09:21 AM

So what's up with the amp Jonathan?
A simple fix I hope...

bassmeknik · #18 08-20-2011, 02:48 PM

It may not mean much, but having put the fuse for the 220 volt model may have helped to further protect it as it was half the amp rating. Unfortunately that doesn't mean all is well...

Sneakypete · #19 08-20-2011, 04:06 PM

In my dayjob we build process control systems for both 110 and 230V countries and from time to time accidents happen. The usual sequence is a brief loud buzz from the transformer and a hissing sound followed by a very loud bang and lots of smoke. We then find the electrolytic capacitors immediately after the bridge rectifier have exploded - I think the hissing sound was from the caps. In other words it's pretty dramatic - which your experience doesn't seem to have been. With a bit of luck you've just popped an internal fuse - I really hope so. One of those things you do and afterwards wonder how you could have been so stupid!

vin*tone · #20 08-20-2011, 09:52 PM

I'd just like to say....

This is the reason I like buying and selling on the TB classifieds. Sellers like you DF who actually CARE what happens after the box is out the door.

I tip my hat to you sir, and all those I've personally dealt with. International sales are often a little less straightforward than local ones.