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-   -   Ampeg SVT 410 HE (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/ampeg-svt-410-he-936800/)

lacepage 11-29-2012 04:17 PM

Ampeg SVT 410 HE
 
I have an older 410HE and the light bulb fuse is blown and I cant find ANYTHING that tells me the right replacement #!!!! Not even Ampeg's website, HELP!!!

RickenBoogie 11-29-2012 04:22 PM

They're usually auto light bulbs, as in, from an automobile tail light or something. Pull it out, and go to the auto parts store. Then, be careful pushing the tweet so hard. Maybe back off a bit.

Signs 11-29-2012 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max (Post 75006)
Some time ago I posted a question about my Ampeg SVT 410HE and the fact there was no variation in tone using the dial in back of the cab. Someone posted and said "check the lightbulb" inside. Sure enough, it was out and once replaced there is a huge difference. The horn really brings out the highs and you get a nice range with the control in back. Being a newbie and having bought the cab on EBAY without a manual I'm not sure what causes them to burn out. But they're easy to replace with a brake lamp from the auto parts store. Thought I would pass this along.

Found this on an older thread...Hope it helps...

lacepage 11-29-2012 04:40 PM

Yea thnks guys, Ino all that, but I cant find the part # of the bulb itself. I was told it was an 1156 and I went to the local best(not chain) electronic parts store and asked for an 1156 and they handed me a blade fuse instead of a bulb. 1156 is sposed to cross over to a BA15S and I found it on Amazon for $30. No thnks.

musicman666 11-29-2012 04:54 PM

Just out of curiosity where is the bulb located? I have an old 410he with 2 missing speakers and 1 torn speaker.....I see no place for a bulb in the tweet...It is an early 90's SLM 410he. If it had a bulb I would send it to ya.

musicman666 11-29-2012 05:02 PM

Ok just completely removed my tweet! No bulb in mine. You must have a newer model.

lacepage 11-29-2012 06:00 PM

Its on the X-over circuit board on the back panel and I just looked @ it and theres a note that says 1683 lamp. The 1165 works so I picked up 2 from AutoZone for $4.99. I remember reading somewhere the specs are lower or its a lower voltage or something so it'll pop sooner than the 1683, butt I got my sparkle back. Sweet!!

Kmonk 11-29-2012 06:17 PM

GK has a similar bulb like fuse. When I was using GK I had to replace one and was told that while they look like an automotive bulb, they actually have a different filament in them. I would email Ampeg's customer service department.

Signs 11-29-2012 08:25 PM

. 1156 is sposed to cross over to a BA15S and I found it on Amazon for $30. No thnks.[/quote]


Try this:It looks like the little light bulbs I get from NAPA for our deer hunting camper interior lights. About $2.50 each...

Sylvania 36521 (1156)



27.3 watt (2.1 AMP) 13 volt S8 Single Contact Bayonet Base #1156 Miniature Incandescent Sylvania Light Bulb (Sylvania 1156 36521)

Jerrold Tiers 11-29-2012 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kmonk (Post 13514950)
GK has a similar bulb like fuse. When I was using GK I had to replace one and was told that while they look like an automotive bulb, they actually have a different filament in them. I would email Ampeg's customer service department.

Not so. At least not for Ampeg. They are straight-up stock bulbs.

usually the number is on the base, often stamped in, but may be just stamped in ink.

The 1156 is a 12V 2 amp bulb, which I don't recall being used, although I don't recall all the cabinets and crossovers. Many cabs used a 28V 1A truck light bulb with a somewhat funnel-shaped glass bulb.

The 28V 1A bulbs were used because the 1A was near the power rating of the tweeter, and the 28V would absorb a good deal of excess voltage.

Bulbs are used to begin with because they have a low resistance when cold, so unless a lot of power is put through them, they are pretty much out of the picture. With excess input (and current flow), they heat up, their resistance goes up, which limits power flow into the tweeter.

Later cabs use several 12V tubular "dome light" bulbs in series, with the only difference being that they have an extra wire welded on each end for soldering into the PCB.


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