Basslite 2x12" DIY question - pulling the trigger!

jimcroisdale · #1 11-25-2011, 09:32 AM

Hi all,

I've stopped trying to decide what's going to be the best solution to my bass requirements. I know it's probably going to be a Barefaced cab of some description, but I don't know which one yet....

However, I've got a DIY itch that needs scratching, so I'm gonna have a crack at making my own regardless....

Ok, here's the plan (simple, as it is)

1. Buy 2x Eminence 12" Basslite speakers.
2. Assuming 1.5cu ft internal volume per speaker, make a 12mm ply cab.
3. Ask very nicely here on TB and hope that someone will help me calculate the required port area and length.
4. Add the ports to the baffle.
5. Varnish and add corners, handles and feet.

Is this feasible? Am I missing anything fundamental in my thinking?

Cheers,

Jimbob

jimcroisdale · #2 11-25-2011, 09:37 AM

Forget to mention bracing and lining too.....

lbwdog · #3 11-25-2011, 09:41 AM

Or.......buy one Kappalite 3012LF, a 6.5" mid and use the fEarful plans.

will33 · #4 11-25-2011, 09:46 AM

How much amp will you be running with them? Basslites are a good choice for lower power amps.

Why 1.5 cu.ft.? Not that it's bad, just why?

Align them vertically. Leave room for later add-on's. Like doing a subchamber for mids and just don't cut out the driver holes yet, etc.

jimcroisdale · #5 11-25-2011, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbwdog

Or.......buy one Kappalite 3012LF, a 6.5" mid and use the fEarful plans.

I really want to complete this project, and for me, that means keeping it simple. I get downhearted and lose interest quite quickly (if I'm being honest with myself!) Not that the Fearful plans are complex, it's just perhaps too complex for a simpleton like me.

Plus, a 3012 is £200, wheres a Basslite is £75.

My plan, as it stands, is something I would feel comfortable with, and can afford!

Jim

jimcroisdale · #6 11-25-2011, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by will33

How much amp will you be running with them? Basslites are a good choice for lower power amps.

Why 1.5 cu.ft.? Not that it's bad, just why?

Align them vertically. Leave room for later add-on's. Like doing a subchamber for mids and just don't cut out the driver holes yet, etc.

At the moment, the amp would be my Trace Elliot. One half of the power amp puts out 300w into 4ohm.

As for 1.5ft, that's the minimum recommended in the Eminence bumf on the website, although I may go bigger (they say 1.5 - 3)

Jim

jimcroisdale · #7 11-25-2011, 12:19 PM

Bump!

fast slapper · #8 11-25-2011, 01:45 PM

I did a quick afternoon build with the basslite in a 1.5ft box with a round 4.25dia x 6.25 L port. Meant to be used as a low volume/weight/cost practice cab but has seen more gigs than my large dsp multiway rig. Definitely exceeded my goals for the build. Two of them in 3ft will make plenty of noise.

Phendyr_Loon · #9 11-25-2011, 08:22 PM

I had the S2012 in a 1.8 cu. ft. ported box and ended up sealing it up. The ported option resulted in a lot of farting and chuffing, in part due to my lack of enclosure tuning knowledge.

Now with a better understanding of how drivers work in relation to the box, and with light building materials I made an enclosure which is lighter and more efficient to better serve the driver.

Depending on what kind of bass response and volume you want, these speakers really hit their stride in the 2.7 cu. ft. range.

dhomer · #10 11-25-2011, 08:35 PM

OK, I'm game for a little ISD workout.. Couple of questions.. 4 string, or extended range? Looking for a clear, well defined tone, or does a little "boom" sound good to ya??

Can tell ya 1.5 cu.ft per driver is acoustically a bit small..

dhomer · #11 11-25-2011, 08:50 PM

A quick and dirty alignment - some good and bad news.. If you went to a 6cu.ft. box (or two 3cu.ft. boxes), tuned to 41Hz it would work "ok" with a 5-string.. The bad news, the cab would be displacement-limited to 150 watts.. centered at 60Hz (first harmonic of B string is around 62).. 300 watts would be major fart city.. Not even looking at port design at this point.. You might be better off looking at a 12/6 fEARful alignment..

Petebass · #12 11-25-2011, 09:08 PM

For bass, I wouldn't go any smaller than 70 litres (2.47 cu.ft) per driver for the Basslite 12s. Tune itto 50 hz and you'll have yourself a nice bass cab.

Keep in mind those Max power graphs on Winisd assume sine waves. A harmonically rich signal such as a bass guitar note is a whole other ball game. I'd be comfortable putting 300 watts to this cab, no problems.

will33 · #13 11-25-2011, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dhomer

A quick and dirty alignment - some good and bad news.. If you went to a 6cu.ft. box (or two 3cu.ft. boxes), tuned to 41Hz it would work "ok" with a 5-string.. The bad news, the cab would be displacement-limited to 150 watts.. centered at 60Hz (first harmonic of B string is around 62).. 300 watts would be major fart city.. Not even looking at port design at this point.. You might be better off looking at a 12/6 fEARful alignment..

3cu.ft per "ok" with a 5 string?

2 cu.ft. will give a low B plenty of authority, more than a lot of commercial cabs people describe as having a good low B.

dhomer · #14 11-25-2011, 11:26 PM

I'm looking for "flat" response from 60Hz-120Hz or so.. if you want that B string to sound like the rest of the instrument, you need that first harmonic supported.. Like I said it was a quick and dirty alignment, didn't spend a lot of time tweekin'.. nor did I figure porting in.. If the OP plays 4-string, he could get away with a smaller box w/the response graph starting flat about 80Hz.. Porting and tuning might help the excursion limitation issue a bit, but its something to consider..

jimcroisdale · #15 11-26-2011, 03:18 AM

Hi all,

Thanks for chiming in!

I play 4 string, in regular tuning, and occasionally go down to drop D but that's it.

I would like a pretty warm sounding cab - warmer than my Schro' which is pretty bass light, and a smidge louder if possible.

If I can fulfill those two objectives, I'll be happy.

2.7 cu ft per driver seems do-able - I have a small car, which can be a problem, but If I'm making it myself I can design the shape to suit.

I'm planning on using this cab with a lighter modern head for my small 3-piece gigs, and if the cab build goes well, I'd like to build a second one and use my Trace Elliot head (which has 2x 300w 4ohm outputs) to run them both.

I love the Trace, but its output config seems a bit of a bad fit with modern one-cab solutions. This idea may solve that too!

Just off to work for a bit, but will get the calculator and pencils out when i get back!

Cheers,

Jim

jimcroisdale · #16 11-28-2011, 04:22 AM

Hi all,

Ok - got a little further!

I received a fantastic PM from Duke which has helped enormously with my design - I hope he doesn't mind me mentioning what he told me:

"If you're only tuning to low-E, then go with 3.0 cubic feet and two 4" diameter ports of 6" length, tuning the box to about 48 Hz. But this cab would be susceptible to fartout on low-B.

If you want to do 3.0 cubic feet and be safe on low-B, then use two 4" diameter ports 8.5" long, and this will give us that 44 Hz tuning frequency in this box size."

So, as I don't play 5 string, I've decided to go for the 1st option. Although I could always change the port length if I ever go to a 5er.

I used the calculator here to decide the size to go for (and measure my car to see what would fit!!)

Speaker Box Volume Calculator / Designer

Then, I've drawn up an initial plan, which is attached.

Would anyone care to take a look and let me know their thoughts?

Cheers,

Jim

jimcroisdale · #17 11-28-2011, 09:47 AM

USA lunchtime bump!

I have been reading back on the previous posts in this thread and have noted that many thought 3cu ft for two drivers was a bit small.

My limited experience with WinISD told me that 'optimal' cabs are usually huge.....

I've checked the sizes of quite a few commercially available 2x12" cabs, and most are similar size to mine (probably different drivers, granted)

Anyone care to chip in?

Cheers,

jimcroisdale · #18 12-02-2011, 04:51 AM

A few days later BUMP!

will33 · #19 12-02-2011, 07:17 AM

Try 2 of them in 4 cu.ft., adjust tuning for a fairly even response in the lows, see what that looks like. That would still be a fairly small cab, basically just tall enough to squeeze the drivers in vertically and still have a fairly small footprint. Keep enough height for vertical alignment, adjust width and depth for the needed size. Keep your car in mind while sizing it.

will33 · #20 12-02-2011, 08:15 AM

I got another computer but don't have my WinISD files loaded in it yet, be doing that this weekend. IIRC, I think 4 ft. is about where I ended up as a compromise for good response down through your lowest notes, including drop D and still keep the fart factor up there where you can play loud. F3 somewhere in the 50's, f10 in the low 40's, displacement limit 200 watts or little better. Seemed good to me seeing as your thermal is 300. Larger seemed to give up too much excursion potential for deeper lows you really don't need and smaller might start to lose response on the very lowest notes. YMMV.