Blown tweeter - exact replacement needed?

[jefkritz]

I blew my tweeter the other day. It still makes sound, but is distorted and farty.

I'm getting around the problem for now by just turning the tweeter level to zero. But to get my tone for my current band, this means I have to do some serious EQing.

Short Version: how important is it to replace the tweeter with the exact model?

Also, from doing some searching, it looks like I might be able to just replace the diaphram - would this do the trick? If so, could anyone help me figure out the right one to get?

The tweeter is an X-tealth HT-410, from my Dr. Bass 210.

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by jefkritz

Short Version: how important is it to replace the tweeter with the exact model?
.

Very, as the crossover should have been optimized for it.

Also, from doing some searching, it looks like I might be able to just replace the diaphram - would this do the trick? If so, could anyone help me figure out the right one to get?

The tweeter is an X-tealth HT-410

Contact the tweeter manufacturer.

[B-string]

Web search.....HT-410 horn...Foster Diaphragm N30 / HO25N08 / N08 / 025H27
Complete units also available.

If you do the diapham replacement and see some brown sticky stuff in there, leave it alone. That is ferro-fluid and is supposed to be there.

[jefkritz]

Thanks for the quick responses! I will definitely give this a shot.

Aside from leaving the brown sticky stuff alone, can you think of any other "gotchas" to avoid?

[will33]

Just be accurate in your work. There should be insulators of some type, little rubber pieces or other where the tinsel leads cross the magnet on their way to the terminals. Don't lose those, or put tiny pieces of electrical tape or something there so they don't short when you put it back together. Remember you're working with small more fragile stuff. Get stuff hot enough for the solder to flow good but don't lay on it more than you need to. Make sure the new diaphram is centered so it doesn't rub, etc.

Basically take note of how the old is in there. Do a dry run on the old one if you need to.

If you end up replacing the whole unit instead of just the diaphram simply connect the wires and screw it back in the cab. Doing a diaphram is always much cheaper.

[B-string]

Originally Posted by jefkritz

Thanks for the quick responses! I will definitely give this a shot.

Aside from leaving the brown sticky stuff alone, can you think of any other "gotchas" to avoid?

As mentioned above. Also the replacement could be slightly over-sized. This allows a wide range of applications, I usually lightly sand with a fine grit sand paper if needed for a tight fit. You will find a diffuser cone after removing the horn bell, it should have recesses to line up for the voice coil leads. There should be two round bumps on the motor that the diaphram sits between. Its really pretty simple and I've actually done them during live shows (dry fits done ahead of time of course). Takes me less than 5 minutes from first screw to last, but I have done them for many years. Take your time and you will find it very simple, speed of replacement comes with practice and something you probably won't ever need.