Building custom Bass Cabinet

[::::BASSIST::::]

Originally Posted by Bass_Pounder

Can't speak about that particular speaker, but can tell you that you will almost NEVER make your own cab cheaper then buying one already made.

Sure you can make one cheaper, but it will most likely NOT be comparable.

Not true. I built this one for about half of what it would cost new from a Builder:



However, unless you really know what you are doing in terms of design, I would follow plans already available.

[will33]

Originally Posted by ::::BASSIST::::

Not true. I built this one for about half of what it would cost new from a Builder:



However, unless you really know what you are doing in terms of design, I would follow plans already available.

Agreed.


Depending on the driver count, one might save a few bucks going DIY, (not putting a price on your own labor, consider that an education) or more likely, end up with somethimg that cost you the price of a budget cab bit you got a nicer driver in it.

Where it really pays off is being able to get yourself, high performance, high quality design stuff and/or personalized, purpose built stuff for reasonable cost that on the market would be really expensive, or possibly not even available depending on what you want.



And.......nice cab.

[Woodstockz]

Originally Posted by ::::BASSIST::::

Not true. I built this one for about half of what it would cost new from a Builder:



However, unless you really know what you are doing in terms of design, I would follow plans already available.

NICE CAB!!!

Which mid are you using?

[::::BASSIST::::]

The 18sound mid is specific to the plans for this build.

And thanks for the compliments. I am very happy with it. Especially at 43LBS.

[1958Bassman]

Originally Posted by artisan87

Hey community. I have read here for years, but this is one of my first posts.

Anyways I am considering building a custom bass Cab for my Gallien-Krueger backline 600, 300 wt 4 ohm load minimum amp head.

This pieces I am considering are simple. A Celestion BL10-200X 10" 8 Ohm Bass Guitar Speaker 200W for speaker, then just attaching 1/4" Male-to-Spade cable running pos/neg and directly thru a hole in the back of the box.

I am decent at woodworking, so building the box is not so much the problem, I am just not very knowledgeable when it comes to speakers. The main idea is to make 2 cabs that work well, don't weigh a ton, and I can make for relatively inexpensive. (Around a 3rd of the price of a pre-built speaker cab of similar value)

Has anyone used these Celestion speakers inside of a cab before? Or any advice on if they will work with this setup. Is there anything I did not take into consideration, or anything wrong with this setup? I plan on reading up more on box building, but overall I would like some general advice and input on this operation.

Apologies if this is long winded, thanks for reading.

Is this a sealed box? If so, use a sealed jack, not a hole to pass the wire through. A sealed box needs to be sealed- if you're going to make a leak, you're better off making a big leak. I'd do the same if it was ported. A speaker wire that hangs out of the cabinet is just asking to be yanked and the terminal strip on a speaker isn't repairable unless the terminals are mounted individually to the speaker frame and insulated.

[artisan87]

Hmm, I might leave the back open like some (Usually older) guitar cabs for air flow. I see a lot of people leaving space in the bottom so the sub can pull air in, instead of the manufacturer style with portholes. So for that reason I might run a 1/4 jack cable straight out of the back, but if I do close it up a sealed jack would be ideal.

Looking at 12's now instead of 10's even though it is much easier to find 10's for the watt/ohm and price specifics.

[will33]

Originally Posted by artisan87

Hmm, I might leave the back open like some (Usually older) guitar cabs for air flow. I see a lot of people leaving space in the bottom so the sub can pull air in, instead of the manufacturer style with portholes. So for that reason I might run a 1/4 jack cable straight out of the back, but if I do close it up a sealed jack would be ideal.

Looking at 12's now instead of 10's even though it is much easier to find 10's for the watt/ohm and price specifics.

You need to read up a whole lot more about speaker building before you end up with blown drivers and $$ down the toilet here.


Ports and openbacks aren't for "airflow" or for any sub to "suck air" anywhere.

Not trying to be mean, just helping to avoid a potential expensive catastrophe. Somewhere up there in the Sticky threads is a bunch of DIY builds, along with the "'cipherin'" that comes along with it, as well as links to other speaker building educational places, etc. Dig in there and read a while.

Here's a good one to get started. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...Building-Bible

Some of it deals in hifi/home stereo type stuff, but the basic fundamental principles are the same, just different end goals.

[artisan87]

No offense taken. This is why I posted here to learn up an some general advice before I did anything.

[Marty Forrer]

Originally Posted by will33

You need to read up a whole lot more about speaker building before you end up with blown drivers and $$ down the toilet here.


Ports and openbacks aren't for "airflow" or for any sub to "suck air" anywhere.

Not trying to be mean, just helping to avoid a potential expensive catastrophe. Somewhere up there in the Sticky threads is a bunch of DIY builds, along with the "'cipherin'" that comes along with it, as well as links to other speaker building educational places, etc. Dig in there and read a while.

Here's a good one to get started. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...Building-Bible

Some of it deals in hifi/home stereo type stuff, but the basic fundamental principles are the same, just different end goals.

+1.

[::::BASSIST::::]

+2

[tjh]

yup .. what Will said ...


Edit to add to the OP: .. glanced at your profile ... shows an SVT and the Backline is gone??

[artisan87]

Oh, I must have done that a while ago. The Svt head is out of commission. Using the ampeg cab for my GK right now.

[will33]

For starters, learn what all the different specs mean, then download WinISD Alpha Pro or other freeware box design program. Start with a simple one-speaker box like a 110 or 115 or something using one of the drivers in the database that's commonly used in bass gear, like an Eminence Beta or Legend or something. Manipulate the box size and port tuning to see what kind of effect that has on bass response and power handling. You can also go in and edit the various T/S parameters to see what effect those have on the performance. Changing Fs, xmax, Qts, Le, etc.

It's cool stuff, and can be a little addictive. Don't be discouraged. When you get a basic understanding, then build an actual simple speaker box using an inexpensive driver and see how it comes out. There will be some successes and of course things that need improvement. Each next build will be better than the previous one and on and on it goes.

[Woodstockz]

Originally Posted by artisan87

No offense taken. This is why I posted here to learn up an some general advice before I did anything.

Higher frequencies beam. Bass frequencies bend around things. If a speaker is not installed in a box, at lower frequencies, a when speaker pushes the cone forward, the rear of the cone sucks the air that the front just pushed. That's OK for guitars at beaming frequencies, but not for bass at bend around frequencies. At low frequencies, the rear wave cancels the front wave, so the front and rear must be separated, or you will hear no bass.

Speaker box designs have many approaches on what to do with the rear wave. Some designs, like infinite baffle, just cut off the back wave. The general idea is to use some of that energy from the back of the speaker to help reinforce the front wave. This involves some type of delay/phase shifting of the back wave. There are a few different approaches, and many opinions.

[artisan87]

Seriously thanks for all the responses. Some much great info here to take into consideration. This site is especially helpful:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...Building-Bible

I am stoked for the support, and I definitely will take all of this into effect when materializing this idea. As I posted originally I don't have much experience with this, and I appreciate anyone disproving any false knowledge I was carrying. It's always better to be told when your wrong, instead of talking about something you are wrong about and sounding like a jackass. I will have to post some photos in a while if I manage to create some kind of success.

Again Thanks.

[B-string]

Anything you do is a success, just try not to succeed at learning only

[artisan87]

So its been a few days. I have been reading up, and weighing options. A few basic questions. Still haven't worked up the exact schematics of my enclosure, but I considering building a vented 1-12 box out of plywood over mdf. I was planning on using a Eminence Beta-12A-II 12" Driver, since it fits my needs, and the price isn't too expensive.
My question is where the tag posts attach to this driver what kind of attachmant do I need. I've usually seen squarish posts that using female disconnect crimps, this style (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-408) is a little different, but just because it looks different it could still connect the same? Any advice on which terminals to use on these tags? Next I was checking out crossovers. Since I am only going to put one driver without any horns into my box do I even need a crossover? The reasoning for this is that I opened up my old ampeg Ba115 cab, and the cable goes straight from the driver tags, and directly out into a 1/4 cable. Thanks for reading.

[will33]

Can't blow up the pic enough on my phone, but it probably uses a regular spade type connector like this...





That just crimps on the end of the wire and slides on the speaker terminals. There are different sizes, so, I'd get those after you have the speaker in hand.

You can also just solder the wire through the hole in the speaker terminal. I do this quite a bit when buttoning things up for the last time. Takes away any worry about things coming loose inside, although, plenty of manufacturers use those terminals without issue.

If you do solder it, use a hot iron, so you don't have to hold it on the terminal very long, so you don't conduct all that heat through the voice coil and damage it.

The only other kind of speaker terminals I've seen on Eminence are the kind wherw you juat twist the wire, push the button down, stick it through the hole and release the button. Those are spring loaded and hold the wire good so I just use them as designed and don't solder them.


The Beta is a good speaker...good choice. They have better performance than their price would indicate and are a good replacement for Ampeg products. That should give you an idea of their tone. Fat in the highbass/lowmids...enough topend to not be muddy but definitely biased towards the "thick" end of our sound.

No crossover needed when using the speaker by itself, no tweeter, etc., just jack--->wire--->speaker.


Post your ideas on box design, size, porting, etc.

[B-string]

Looks like just small lugs. You can use narrow slip-on connectors or solder right to the lugs.
No crossover needed with a single driver (speaker) cab.
Good plan dumping the MDF idea.

[artisan87]

So here is my layout. Haven't ordered any pieces yet, but I have all the main parts I need listed. There are some specs on the best cabinet style to make using the Eminence Beta 12A-II (http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/...-more-info.pdf). 1.75 Cu Feet, with 2 circular vents. 1.75 Cubic feet works out to 3024 Cu Inches, the design I have works out to 3010 Cu Inches, about 1.743 Cu'. I planning on building a 'pyramid' style box wider at the bottom, and thinner at the top. These are inside parameters, so 20" inside with 1/2" plywood would have an outside length of 21". If there is anything I am overlooking or somthing horrible with this design please let me know. Again thanks.