Building Custom Cab

[glaze]

Hi all... I am building a custom bass cabinet out of a Rockford Fosgate BTR 1212 Cabinet that i bought for my car a long time ago. Long story short, I fried my amp for it, and don't think i will be using it in a vehicle anytime soon, as I would rather play music that listen to it at that volume anymore.

It is dual ported 2x12" with 2x6" tweeters. Now this is where the interesting part comes in. Instead of just removing the old speaker inputs, i left them in and added a switch and a 1/4" stereo jack, so it could still be used in a vehicle or on stage.

I have yet to test it, and i think i have the wiring correct, but I just wanted to see if there was anyone out there that might be able to let me know if I do have the wiring correct. I don't want to blow the drivers the first time i go to test it because the wiring was off.

You'll see the schema i have attached for the wiring all of the + connections are on one side and all of the - connections are on the other, the drivers and tweeters are on the middle (common) terminals of the switch. The Switch has 2 + connections going to the 1/4" plug and 1 - connection. the speaker connections are wired as normal with 1 + and 1 - connection to each.

Now I have 4 + and - wires going to the speakers 1 for speaker. so there are 8 wires total on 2 terminals.

If anyone could verify for me that this is correct that would be awesome.

Thanks!

[MuzikMan]

I apologize but I can't follow your diagram. You don't need to rewire your cab or add a switch to do what you want though. Just add the new jack with parallel wiring to the old jack and you are done!

[BurningSkies]

I have a feeling you've just built a cab that sounds not good for stage or car...

[Electricblue]

Originally Posted by BurningSkies

I have a feeling you've just built a cab that sounds not good for stage or car...

+1 a car sub uses the whole car as a cabinet and whatnot.

[glaze]

Here's a worded diagram to the best of my ability:

Switch -> 4(+) wires on common terminals -> speakers/tweeters
Switch -> 4(-) wires on common terminals -> speakers/tweeters
1/4" stereo -> 2(+) wires -> switch
1/4" stereo -> 1(-) wire -> switch
2 speaker jacks -> 2(+) wires -> switch
2 speaker jacks -> 2(-) wires -> switch

I know i have all of the + on one side of the switch and all of the - on the other, so for the sake of ease lets say all the +'s are on the right and all the -'s are on the left.

Does this help at all?

[MuzikMan]

Where are your crossovers?

[glaze]

I didn't actually add anything other than the switch and the 1/4" port to the box... If it helps here's the original tech specs...

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...TR1212-LMS.pdf

[Sliderbass]

It would be best if you were to sell the components now rather than cobble this together. Its been tried more times than I can count with the same result.

Take the $$$ you get from the sale and spend it on whatever you like.

[Andyman001]

added a switch and a 1/4" stereo jack, so it could still be used in a vehicle or on stage.

what kind of switch?

as MuzikMan stated, a switch is not needed unless it is to isolate the subs from the tweeters.

but now that it is there, 2-position? 3-position? how many terminals(posts)? etc.
Andy

[glaze]

3 position switch 6 terminals, 2 on 1 off position, to isolate the speaker jack from the 1/4" jack so only one or the other can be used.

It's an SPCO switch.

[Andyman001]

[glaze]

it looks like the top one with all 4 speakers connected individually to the middle terminals as shown, an 2nd set of speaker jacks connected where you show those, and a 2nd + line running to the 1/4" jack since it is a stereo jack.

[Calaverasgrande]

here is the rub, car audio subs are low efficiency with huge amounts of watts thrown at them in bandpass boxes. Bass cabs are high efficiency with moderate amount of watts thrown at them in a relatively full range box (compared to the car audio sub).
So expect it to be not very loud and only do 60-150 hz and you wont be disappointed.

[glaze]

well it all seemed to come out ok. I had a friend come by who is more versed in wiring nd he said every thing ooked good ested through the headpgone out of my 20 watt practice amp and sound came out. Now to find a head to power it.