Cab issue q?

DWBass · #1 11-13-2011, 08:21 PM

Has anyone ever had to replace hardwired bulb fuses on their cabs? And just wondering, why make them hardwired and not the replaceable type?

billfitzmaurice · #2 11-13-2011, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWBass

Has anyone ever had to replace hardwired bulb fuses on their cabs?

Happens all the time. Speakerhardware.com carries replacements.

Quote:

And just wondering, why make them hardwired and not the replaceable type?

They'd vibrate out of sockets.

**DougD** · #3 11-13-2011, 08:39 PM

I didn't know there we cabs like that. Seems like a major design flaw. or are you just misunderstanding the concept. It could be that the bulb sits inside a clamp or housing that is hardwired. Sort of like the tubes on an amp. The assembly is hardwired, but the tubes are replaceable. What cab are you referring to?

**B-string** · #4 11-13-2011, 08:52 PM

A lot of cabs with dynamic horns use "fuse style" lamps as current limiters to help prevent horn burn-out.

**DougD** · #5 11-13-2011, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B-string

A lot of cabs with dynamic horns use "fuse style" lamps as current limiters to help prevent horn burn-out.

Yes, but they are usually replaceable, aren't they?

**B-string** · #6 11-13-2011, 09:02 PM

That is up to the manufacturer, the ones I have seen are in fuse holders. Pop them out and slip a new one in.

AHHHH just had a flash back to replacing dial lamps in old Marantz equipment, solder leads on fuse style lamps PITA.

T-Bird · #7 11-13-2011, 09:03 PM

Hi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougD

Yes, but they are usually replaceable, aren't they?

If it's soldered in place, it's still replaceable. Not as easily as if it was in a socket, but still.

The BFM's explanation makes sense, but all the protection bulbs I have replaced, have been sitting in very sturdy automotive style spring loaded sockets, absolutely no chance of 'em fallin out in any case.

Regards
Sam

DWBass · #8 11-14-2011, 05:44 AM

Cab is a Genz Benz GB410T-XB (1st version). Received the cab and found the tweeter not working. Removed the panel and saw the bulb/fuse blown.

agedhorse · #9 11-14-2011, 09:11 AM

The reason why we use solder-in lamps on bass cabinets (as well as a more vibration resistant filament) is because under some high level conditions the clips can vibrate and create a noise in the tweeter. By the time you get clips tight enough it's very hard to get the bulbs in and out without breaking something. Bulb failure is relatively rare, and usually happens along with some pretty catastrophic event (really loud squeel, feedback, etc. while being powered by a very high powered amp that exceeds the combined voltage rating of the tweeter and the lamps in series). Otherwise, they operate in their notmal voltage range under moderate overload conditions.

Note that you should always use the factory bulbs, even though all bulbs LOOK the same, they are not. They are chosen for their voltage and current curves in order to provide adequate protection. IIRC, the bulbs in many of our products are 24 or 28 volt and not "automotive" bulbs even though they might look the part.

They are easy to replace for any technically oriented person and any REASONABLE tech or repair shop should be able to do this for you inexpensively.

[rant on] If a shop charges you an arm and a leg for such a simple repair, they simply don't get the big picture of using this as an opportunity to get you as a customer for other more complicated repairs. If the crossover is out of the cabinet, and you have the bulbs in hand, it's like a 2 minute repair. Even in the cabinet, it's <15 monutes. Trivial by all REASONABLE accounts. If it's not trivial to your repair shop, it's time to find another shop IMO. [rant off]

DWBass · #10 11-14-2011, 12:23 PM

I ordered the replacement bulbs and will have my tech work on it. I'll report back.

T-Bird · #11 11-14-2011, 10:12 PM

Hi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by agedhorse

Note that you should always use the factory bulbs, even though all bulbs LOOK the same, they are not. They are chosen for their voltage and current curves in order to provide adequate protection. IIRC, the bulbs in many of our products are 24 or 28 volt and not "automotive" bulbs even though they might look the part.

Thanks for pointing that out.
Should be trivial, but as we all have noticed at one time or another, trivial to some may not be nearly as tirivial for somebody else.

Thanks also for the explanation as why You at GB don't use sockets, makes sense.

Regards
Sam

**DougD** · #12 11-15-2011, 01:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agedhorse

The reason why we use solder-in lamps on bass cabinets (as well as a more vibration resistant filament) is because under some high level conditions the clips can vibrate and create a noise in the tweeter. By the time you get clips tight enough it's very hard to get the bulbs in and out without breaking something. Bulb failure is relatively rare, and usually happens along with some pretty catastrophic event (really loud squeel, feedback, etc. while being powered by a very high powered amp that exceeds the combined voltage rating of the tweeter and the lamps in series). Otherwise, they operate in their notmal voltage range under moderate overload conditions.

Note that you should always use the factory bulbs, even though all bulbs LOOK the same, they are not. They are chosen for their voltage and current curves in order to provide adequate protection. IIRC, the bulbs in many of our products are 24 or 28 volt and not "automotive" bulbs even though they might look the part.

They are easy to replace for any technically oriented person and any REASONABLE tech or repair shop should be able to do this for you inexpensively.

[rant on] If a shop charges you an arm and a leg for such a simple repair, they simply don't get the big picture of using this as an opportunity to get you as a customer for other more complicated repairs. If the crossover is out of the cabinet, and you have the bulbs in hand, it's like a 2 minute repair. Even in the cabinet, it's <15 monutes. Trivial by all REASONABLE accounts. If it's not trivial to your repair shop, it's time to find another shop IMO. [rant off]

Ive had to replace a few of the pop out ones. They sell the EXACT same fuses at Auto Zone for than $2.00. Same part number, same voltage, same everything. 5 minutes with a soldering iron and you'll be good to go. Unless you don't know how to solder that is

It's your call, but it's an easy fix. Real easy

agedhorse · #13 11-15-2011, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougD

Ive had to replace a few of the pop out ones. They sell the EXACT same fuses at Auto Zone for than $2.00. Same part number, same voltage, same everything. 5 minutes with a soldering iron and you'll be good to go. Unless you don't know how to solder that is

It's your call, but it's an easy fix. Real easy

Some may indeed be 12 volt but I wanted to clarify that there are a wide range of parts that we as designers can use and they may all look alike on the outside, some do not have numbers either.

Also, they are not fuses.

DWBass · #14 12-03-2011, 10:04 AM

My tech finally got to my cab and it indeed was the 'bulb/fuse' thingies! He replaced them with the new ones I got from Genz Benz. Can't wait to fire this thing up on an outdoor/big stage gig! He did say when full on the tweeter was a bit hissy but I never have mine full on either on the cab or on my amps/basses.