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  #1  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:06 PM
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Which cabinet would you go with?

Just wondering which one of these cabinets you would take over the other. Right now I can either trade a jay turser Beatle bass for a peavey cabinet with a newer eminence kappa pro 15a speaker in it or, try and sell the bass to purchase a Ampeg B115E 1x15 bass cab. Which one would you guys go with. Right now I have a peavey 4x10 cabinet with an ashdown mag 300 head.
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkite04 View Post
Just wondering which one of these cabinets you would take over the other. Right now I can either trade a jay turser Beatle bass for a peavey cabinet with a newer eminence kappa pro 15a speaker in it or, try and sell the bass to purchase a Ampeg B115E 1x15 bass cab. Which one would you guys go with. Right now I have a peavey 4x10 cabinet with an ashdown mag 300 head.
Neither. I would try and match your 410 with a second identical one.
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL400Peavey

Neither. I would try and match your 410 with a second identical one.
Why would you say to do that?
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:34 PM
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If you like the tone of your 4x10, +1 on getting another one. Two 4x10's will move more air and hook up tone wise to reinforce each other instead of fighting whatever a 1x15 produces.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:35 PM
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The main reasons would be your single 15" speaker would be getting the same amount of watts as all 4 10" speakers making your 15" cab be the weak link.... you may also have a phasing issue where the cabs just don't mesh well together....

Here's a thread on mixing or not mixing, there are many more on this very subject....

I must disagree with the "Don't mix speaker sizes people"
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Last edited by tdub0199 : 04-10-2012 at 02:39 PM.
  #6  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumbo
If you like the tone of your 4x10, +1 on getting another one. Two 4x10's will move more air and hook up tone wise to reinforce each other instead of fighting whatever a 1x15 produces.
I do like the tone of my 4x10 I just always thought adding a 1x15 would add that deep bass punchy tone if that makes sense. Thanks for the info tho guys I appreciate it.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2012, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrkite04 View Post
Why would you say to do that?
There is a lot of science supporting the fact that mixing drivers is not the most optimal set up.

What do you think the 115 will add to your current set up?
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Who the heck wants to "cut" through a mix anyway? I want to punch the mix in the balls. Anyone can cut through the mix. Not everyone can beat the mix's ass
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  #8  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL400Peavey

There is a lot of science supporting the fact that mixing drivers is not the most optimal set up.

What do you think the 115 will add to your current set up?
I thought it would a a more punchy clear low end sound.
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  #9  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:18 PM
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Try putting the 4x10 on a milk crate first. Functionally equivalent in most cases
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  #10  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:31 PM
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That's for all the info guys and saving me a waste of time and money.
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  #11  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rpsands View Post
Try putting the 4x10 on a milk crate first. Functionally equivalent in most cases
Getting the cab to ear level may give you a better idea of how the cab "really" sounds. Also stand as far away from the cab as possible. Try it out at rehearsal.

Also, make sure your cab has enough internal insulation. Sometimes it's not a priority for some cab makers. Doing this will also tighten up your tone.
  #12  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:37 PM
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How about EQing for a good tone that will give me nice punchy smooth lows with clear highs? I have the head set-up sounding nice now the highs sound nice a clear but the low end seems like it lacks a smooth punchy tone. This is what my EQ looks like below.

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  #13  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:39 PM
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Yowza.

Cutting 10db @ 220hz, I'm not surprised it's not punchy.

Roll that 220hz down to ~150hz or so and then turn the mids to 1 o'clock or so, and see how you like that

Failin that, try cutting closer to 800hz than 220hz.
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:41 PM
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How old is your Peavy cab?

Maybe speakers need upgrading?
  #15  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpsands
Yowza.

Cutting 10db @ 220hz, I'm not surprised it's not punchy.

Roll that 220hz down to ~150hz or so and then turn the mids to 1 o'clock or so, and see how you like that

Failin that, try cutting closer to 800hz than 220hz.
Like this? I really have no understanding when it come to EQing of where rolling the 220hz down to 150hz or cutting it it closer to 800hz

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  #16  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumbo
How old is your Peavy cab?

Maybe speakers need upgrading?
Don't know how old it is I bought it used, can't really afford top of the line equipment. I know more than likely it's me like I said in my last post I'm don't really understand the fundamentals of EQing, I just turn everything to 0 and mess with each knob till I hear what I like.
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:04 PM
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try it, do you like it ?

In my opinion there are some valid comments here, and at least one that I can't justify.

1) If you like the sound of a 4x10 and you want more volume and deeper lows add another 4x10.

2) If you want more low, you can get a little extra something by making the cabinet act as a larger baffle. What did I just say??? If I take a cab and set it on another unplugged big cabinet the low frequency (LF) response will improve because you just increased the effective baffle size. (Though this is really impractical). Putting it on a milk crate does not create a larger baffle size, in fact it reduces LF response because a speaker cab on a floor gets a free boost from the floor, becasue the reflection off the floor acts as a mirror image source.

I used to used a 2x10 on a stand, and carried a piece of 3/4" plywood to fill in the gap from the cabinet to the floor to get the benefit of a larger baffle on a floor boundary.

3) If you add a 15" to the 4x10, it shold match in terms of power handling and impedance. This can be a bit of a trick.
I have a 15" and a 2x10, that I like but I really don't need the SPL.

4) Regarding the science of different speakers. Putting four 10s in a cabinet is a bad idea if you want even frequency response, but it sounds cool on a bass! No high quality PA cabinet uses four 10" drivers over a wide freqeuncy range like a bass player does. However there are many high quality speakers that use a different driver for lows-mids-highs. The bass player with Dave Mathews (Stefan something) used to use a Meyer PA rig for his bass amp, it was clean!

5) I really like it when people step away from the amp. This applies to guitars and basses. The audience's ears don't hear what I hear (if my ears were in my knee caps..... maybe).
  #18  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:06 PM
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try it, do you like it ?

In my opinion there are some valid comments here, and at least one that I can't justify.

1) If you like the sound of a 4x10 and you want more volume and deeper lows add another 4x10.

2) If you want more low, you can get a little extra something by making the cabinet act as a larger baffle. What did I just say??? If I take a cab and set it on another unplugged big cabinet the low frequency (LF) response will improve because you just increased the effective baffle size. (Though this is really impractical). Putting it on a milk crate does not create a larger baffle size, in fact it reduces LF response because a speaker cab on a floor gets a free boost from the floor, becasue the reflection off the floor acts as a mirror image source.

I used to used a 2x10 on a stand, and carried a piece of 3/4" plywood to fill in the gap from the cabinet to the floor to get the benefit of a larger baffle on a floor boundary.

3) If you add a 15" to the 4x10, it shold match in terms of power handling, sensetivity and impedance. This can be a bit of a trick.
I have a 15" and a 2x10, that I like but I really don't need the SPL.

4) Regarding the science of different speakers. Putting four 10s in a cabinet is a bad idea if you want even frequency response, but it sounds cool on a bass! No high quality PA cabinet uses four 10" drivers over a wide freqeuncy range like a bass player does. However there are many high quality PA cabinets that use a different driver for lows-mids-highs. The bass player with Dave Mathews (Stefan something) used to use a Meyer PA rig for his bass amp, it was clean!

5) I really like it when people step away from the amp. This applies to guitars and basses. The audience's ears don't hear what I hear (if my ears were in my knee caps..... maybe).
  #19  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:24 PM
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Another thing to consider is a a High Pass Filter or "rumble" filter that removes any mud tones below about 35 to 80hz.

Check out TBer FDeck's HPF/Pre unit or the Thumpinator by sfxsound.

That might help clean up your low end.

Also, remember that adding more bass at a gig is not always the way to go because of a venue's acoustics. Cutting the bass a bit and boosting the low mids sometimes will get you where you want to go.

Be sure and run your bass' tone contol wide open and adjust the amp's eq. from there.
  #20  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe5cent
In my opinion there are some valid comments here, and at least one that I can't justify.

1) If you like the sound of a 4x10 and you want more volume and deeper lows add another 4x10.

2) If you want more low, you can get a little extra something by making the cabinet act as a larger baffle. What did I just say??? If I take a cab and set it on another unplugged big cabinet the low frequency (LF) response will improve because you just increased the effective baffle size. (Though this is really impractical). Putting it on a milk crate does not create a larger baffle size, in fact it reduces LF response because a speaker cab on a floor gets a free boost from the floor, becasue the reflection off the floor acts as a mirror image source.

I used to used a 2x10 on a stand, and carried a piece of 3/4" plywood to fill in the gap from the cabinet to the floor to get the benefit of a larger baffle on a floor boundary.

3) If you add a 15" to the 4x10, it shold match in terms of power handling, sensetivity and impedance. This can be a bit of a trick.
I have a 15" and a 2x10, that I like but I really don't need the SPL.

4) Regarding the science of different speakers. Putting four 10s in a cabinet is a bad idea if you want even frequency response, but it sounds cool on a bass! No high quality PA cabinet uses four 10" drivers over a wide freqeuncy range like a bass player does. However there are many high quality PA cabinets that use a different driver for lows-mids-highs. The bass player with Dave Mathews (Stefan something) used to use a Meyer PA rig for his bass amp, it was clean!

5) I really like it when people step away from the amp. This applies to guitars and basses. The audience's ears don't hear what I hear (if my ears were in my knee caps..... maybe).
Thanks for your info too. I really wanna learn more about this or at least get a better understanding of how it works. Do u think this would work as a good baffle or just reduce the LF? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002D...SIN=B0002D0B4U
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