Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindabout Thanks SurferJoe. I must admit I don't know too much about the technicalities behind using a car battery. My practice amp is 30W. I'd have to buy a battery especially for this so battery size isn't fixed. I was thinking of one of those no-maintenance batteries that don't have the screw caps on them - I guess this might be the same gel-cell battery you are talking about? |
Maintenance Free and Gell-Cell are totally different animals.
Only one is OK for aircraft use - and they are priced accordingly! Figure on $250 for a decent sized one.
If you don't run a Power-Pack type system with a built-in charger, it might not 60 cycle buzz at you - but then again, they are not designed to be RF, hum or REMF free either.
They are basically for starting engines and running lights that don't give a fig about waves that are off-kilter. Anything that basically stays on one side or the other of the Nullpoint (or ZERO volts) is OK by them!
Remember that it's only your amp OUTPUT @ 30 Watts, that's not the electrical PULL it take to light it up! No way!
Take a simple algebraic value and multiply it out:
Amps (times) Volts = Watts.
So - a 13.2 Volt battery can deliver (say) 200 Amps over the time of an hour. That's approx 2,640 Watts (right?)
HINT: It won't do that well at all!
This factor is in a perfect world however - beware! Be VERY aware! Real-time and real-world values are not gonna be that good.
A battery would obviously never make it to it's real values - at lest on a slow-draw like this - it drops off fast and reliably!
Then you will have to invert the battery voltage to 120 or so, not forgetting loses in heat, voltage de-ramping, losses and pasting the sine wave (the 60 cycle stuff) to it and you might lose about 15-20% of the total Watts.
That's about 2,120 Watts left if the battery can hold decent voltage
(it won't) and not make the inverter pull more
(it will) to compensate for dropping voltage (it's gonna!) from it.
There's a lot of fudge factors here too!
I figure about 50% one way or - no, there is no OTHER way!
Your practice amp runs at 120 Volts +/- a
smidge, and it might pull about 3-4 (maybe) Amps - OK so far?
Now convert that to Watts (
VxA=
W) and it's pulling about 400+/- Watts.
Then divide that into the Watts you can reliably get from the inverter/battery combo and you
MIGHT get about 5.5+ hours.
And --------- I don't think so, Al!
But that's assuming that the battery doesn't down-ramp and the draw from the inverter pulls more Watts than I've assumed - and it's a slippery slope at best.
But so am I.
Hopefully my math is OK and I don't have a case of
"Part-Timer's" brain fade. That's like Alzheimer's, but a lot less predictable.