Cheapskate DIY 2x15

[TJSlice]

So these speakers seem to model pretty well in WinISD @ 7cubic ft internal volume, tuned to 45Hz.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-034

Looking for a project (AKA something to keep me busy) that wont break the bank, plus I'd like to scale down from my 8x10.

Would like to do a pretty simple 2x15: 1/2" ply, 3/4" baffle, couple ports, handles and some casters, sized height wise between a typical 410 and 810.

Is this speaker gonna fit the bill? Any other cheap speaker recommendations? Not a master of WinISD, but I think I get the gist of what to look for..

[JimmyM]

I'd take a look at the Eminence Beta 15a's before those. The Betas are same price and brighter. The Daytons cut off at 3.5k, and the Betas do 4k. Makes a little difference. Not saying the Daytons would be bad, but I like more high end out of a 15.

[Downunderwonder]

Or these badboys, Eminence Legends:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-497

[ScottTunes]

And/or Eminence Delta-15A

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-418

[Freddels]

Here's what I'd do . . .

Custom DIY 2x15 cab build

[AstroSonic]

All great suggestions, offering a variety of tones. Without direct experience it is difficult to know ahead of time just how a particular driver and cab will sound tone wise. However, I would encourage the OP to try the Dayton 15's. IME Daytons come pretty close to meeting their TS specs, and the PA Series appears to be designed for maximum performance at a reasonable cost. Once these become better known the price will surely be going up. If more HF is desired, the top end breakup modes and rolloff are reasonably well-manored allowing a 6 inch mid or tweeter to be added relatively easily (as long as stringent hifi standards are not required).

[iualum]

Originally Posted by ScottTunes

And/or Eminence Delta-15A

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-418

The Daytons look pretty good for what you describe.

But for an extra $40 total more, I agree, I like the Delta-15As. Tad more high end frequency range. Tad more sensitivity. Total 19 lbs. lighter for a pair.

http://www.usspeaker.com/Delta-15A-1.htm

[AstroSonic]

Originally Posted by iualum

The Daytons look pretty good for what you describe.

But for an extra $40 total more, I agree, I like the Delta-15As. Tad more high end frequency range. Tad more sensitivity. Total 19 lbs. lighter for a pair.

http://www.usspeaker.com/Delta-15A-1.htm

The 15A is a nice driver, but relative to the Dayton it has only about half the Xmax (2.7mm vs 5mm), a significantly higher Fs (40Hz vs 28Hz) and a substantially higher Qts (0.53 vs 0.28). The latter two will make it difficult to get good note definition and low end response in a reasonable size box. OTOH, if the tone goal included prominent and fat mid-bass the Delta would do nicely, at least within its Xmech limits. The Delta's 5db plateau between 1 and 4kHz could work or be problematic, depending on personal preferences. At least it's not strongly peaked. Without that 'plateau' the Delta is slightly less sensitive than the Dayton.

The CB158 is a very nice driver, but at half again as much money as the Dayton. Little different tone. A case could be made for a single 15 with a substantially greater Xmax if the budget could be pushed. However, within the Xmax of the Dayton, a pair of Daytons would be more sensitive. They would also allow distribution of the thermal load, likely resulting in less compression and less power required.

Several good choices available...

[TJSlice]

Thanks for everyone's driver recommendations! So far as I looked spec wise (outside of weight, lol), the Dayton's model well and the price is right. Between thermal handling and fairly decent Xmax, I feel a 2x15, although heavy, would have some decent performance.

The Beta would definitely be my second choice, for price and performance. As for the high end response, I tend to ease off the treble knob on my 700RBII, and the high end response on the Faital 15PR400 is only up to 4k and people seem to dig them on their own, so the loss of a few hundred kHz on the Dayton probably won't be lost on me.

If the high end response IS lacking, I'd probably throw in a horn and have it wired to utilize the Bi-Amp feature on the GK.

And, yes, an argument could be made for a single 15" that would perform the same as these two Dayton's with less weight, but I hope to build a decently performing 2x15, sized to make movement easy with handles and casters, and complete with hardware for LESS than the cost of a single raw Kappa 3015LF driver.


As for hardware, that's pretty much find good deals and save where you can. Wood is my only other decision I gotta make. Las Vegas does not have a plethora of lumber yards. As I get closer to getting the project started, I will give the few places around a call. In Florida, I was able to get decent Baltic Birch at Home Depot for a good price. The Home Depot close to me seems to only have Birch and cabinet grade ply, but it was pretty straight, no voids or knots, and the price was right.

Any thoughts on cheapskate wood?

[Freddels]

You don't want a 3015LF unless you're going to add a mid driver.

[AstroSonic]

Use thin walls with lots of smart bracing (plenty of threads on this) or 3/4 inch low density plywood like poplar - less expensive and simpler bracing: L-braces at top and bottom, and a shelf brace between the two 15's having 2 ovals cut out and the piece between the ovals functioning as a front to back brace. Add two 1 1/2 inch wide strips to make the front to back brace cross section like a plus sign.

[mixamatchi]

Don't know if this helps your decision or not, but I took a chance on a pair of Dayton PA series 10s, and they sound fabulous. I used them as a replacement speaker in a 2/10 peavey combo, with an Eminence ASD1001 horn, and a Dayton 2.5k crossover. This amp now sounds quite "boutiquey".

[JimmyM]

If you ask me, Faital shorts themselves calling the 15PR400 4k on the top end. That's the brightest 15" I've ever heard. I'd say much closer to 5k.

[TJSlice]

If ya'll can guess, JohnK's Starliner build is what really gave me the itch to do a 2x15 (albeit with different drivers in mind). I thought his bracing was great; minimal but effective.

Now, considering the weight of the Dayton's, with proper bracing, would a 1/2" baffle be comfortable holding 40+ lbs, or should I stick with 3/4" as per original post? My original thinking was to use the 3/4" for some extra "meat" for T-Nuts to bite into and to not worry about bracing that area as much, as 20lbs (x2) of driver is pretty beefy. But if I stick with 1/2" all around, I can get 2 sheets of it and be done. Hmmmmmmmmm.........

[Downunderwonder]

How thick are your T-nuts?

I'm no expert but the driver frames should be rigid enough of their own, making whole baffle flexing the only concern. Braced 1/2" is a lot stiffer than unbraced 3/4".

[Freddels]

I would think the baffle is where you have to give in to the weight and go with the 3/4".

[pie_man_25]

Originally Posted by Freddels

I would think the baffle is where you have to give in to the weight and go with the 3/4".

yeah, it would make sense, if you don't want to get more plywood though, you could just double up on 1/2" plywood, maybe route into the inside a bit to minimize the weight.

[JimmyM]

Originally Posted by Downunderwonder

How thick are your T-nuts?

That's a rather personal question.

[astack]

Originally Posted by pie_man_25

yeah, it would make sense, if you don't want to get more plywood though, you could just double up on 1/2" plywood, maybe route into the inside a bit to minimize the weight.

I seem to remember that's what John did. Some routing of some sort.

TBer 5StringPocket found something called Tiger Ply iirc that was like $30/4x8 sheet with decent specs. Not sure if he ever tested it out.

At the end of the day, a braced 1/2" ply cab out of almost anything is pretty solid compared to the average commercial cab. At least that's the popular opinion on TB.

[TJSlice]

I'll most likely stick with 1/2" all around, unless the speaker weight and/ or t-nut size makes me uneasy about it. As for T-nuts, probably as big a diameter as possible without modifying the speaker frame holes. Looks like I will probably start this project after the 1st of Jan barring any problem