DIY 1x10 cab help
 

I'm trying to come up with a cab design for a 10" driver out of a combo amp I have sitting around. I've seen winISD mentioned several times, but here's the problem - there are no markings or labels on the actual driver, so I can't accurately plug it into the software. Is there a generic driver setting or a way to find out driver info based on the combo it came from? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Btw, here's a ported cab design I modeled up just to show the type of cab I'm trying to make. The top has been removed to show the porting.

Where? :hmm:

Maybe this will help

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/lo...eeterless-110-[long]-736360/

Without the necessary specs, you will have to measure and copy the combos cabinet.

Just added the picture.

Do you know if the volume of that cabinet includes the ports?
If so, couldn't I just design a cab with the same volume?

I know nothing, other than whats in the post, sorry.
I didn't even do the build. When I got my money together for the build, a David Eden Cx110 came up on CL
for the same money and I went with that :)

Was the driver originally in a ported box? If so, then just copy the box volume and port tuning frequency.

No, it was a sealed box. I'll post a pic of it when I get back home. If I copied the original enclosure, could I change the external dimensions in a way that it had the same internal volume?

If the original cab was sealed, most likely the speaker is designed for a sealed cabinet.

1 cubic foot is very common for most tens. Some tend to have a flatter response in 2 cubic. For a decent trade off something around 1.5 for a little more bass and to smooth out a 100hz peak that is very common with 10's.

Just make the cabinet as deep as possible, and stuff the back and front corners with dampening material.

as far as a ported cabinet since you dont know the Fs of the driver, 45 to 55hz is also very common with tens
and a generic tune of 45hz can work well with many drivers.

Do you really need two shelf ports for one 10" speaker. That's more work for little gain. Unless, visually, you want two shelf ports, which I completely understand.

It was mainly visual, gives it some balance since I would lay it with the shelf ports to the sides.

How would I know what frequency the ports are tuned to or design the ports to that frequency? I'm new to this if you couldn't tell.

The physical and electrical characteristics of the speaker determine the cabinet volume, whether it works in a sealed or ported box, power handling in any box, frequency response, output and many other things but the box design NEVER comes before speaker selection.

There's a lot of info about speaker design but one thing you'll need to know- it's all science and math. If you like science and math, it should be a good experience.

Nice graphic, BTW.

Yea, I know I'm doing it backwards, but I don't have any details on the speaker. And I do like science and math. Thanks for the compliments on the graphic. Took drafting in high school and kept up with it. It helps with my current career choice ( machine tool technology)

Here's the combo amp. I think its only a 50w.

Dig through the current and archived manuals at Peaveys site and find the Max110. It should say what speaker was used and somewhere else in those manuals will be some T/S specs. They're pretty good about providing speaker specs, at least enough to do a workable box but it may take some digging. That speaker may be sealed cab in the Max for making it small/convenient, but may also work well in a ported box probably about 50% larger, or just figure 1 cubic foot ported.

Your design there is a solid one, but no, you don't need that much port area for a single 10 and may have problems getting the tuning low enough with that much area. What you can do however is keep the same outward look and just make some of those faux port sections. That's what the Genz NeoX's do. It looks like it's ported all the way down both sides of the cab but the actual, functional ports are the sections in the 4 corners. The middle sections are blacked out and are not ports, but still serve to brace the baffle nice and stiff.

I think the current design I have drawn up is slightly larger than a cubic foot excluding the ports. I'll have to double check the dimensions though. Would blocking off the top or bottom port on each side work in the same manner? Design wise, that seems simpler to me.

I understand the visuals. That's cool.

Faux port on one side from will33 is a great idea. If you block it off a couple of inches down and paint it black, then no one will know that it is cosmetic. Also, you will regain cabinet volume on the back side.

Ok, I just checked the interior dimensions and the internal volume is 1.35 cubic feet. If I close off two of the ports it bumps it up to roughly 1.5 cubic feet. What do you all think?

Also, as suggested, I looked up the manual for the amp. Here's all of the info they had listed - straight from the pdf.

Rated Power:
20 watts RMS into 4 ohms,
nominal @ 1 kHz, 120 VAC line

Power Consumption:
(Domestic)
50 watts, 60 Hz, 120 VAC
(Export)
50 watts, 50/60 Hz, 230 VAC

The following specs are measured
at 1 kHz with all controls preset at
5; "Modern" voicing:

Input Sensitivity:
Nominal Input Level (Modern):
-15.4 dBV‚ 170 mV RMS
Maximum Input Level:
7.04 dBV‚ 2.25 V RMS

Tape/CD Input:
Impedance: High-Z, 1.1Meg ohms
Nominal Input Level:
8.79 dBV‚ 2.75 V RMS
Headphone Output:
Nominal Output Level:
100 mW into 8 ohms
(Disconnects internal speaker when used)

System Hum & Noise @
Nominal Input Level:
(Clean channel‚ 20 Hz to 20 kHz unweighted)
Greater than 73 dB below rated
power

Dimensions (H x W x D):
17.653" x 15.375" x 11.188"
(449 mm x 391 mm x 285 mm)
Weight:
25.4 lbs. (11.5 kg)