Duratex question.

two fingers · #1 03-13-2013, 07:40 PM

I have roller grade Duratex and I'm getting ready to do my first cab (probably Friday afternoon). I didn't order the little spongy blue roller they sell. Is that kind of roller available at a Lowe's or paint stores? Is there another kind you guys recommend? I would prefer an orange peal kind of texture, but I'm not really all that picky about it on my first try. I really just want it to be consistent all over. Thank you.

Tedward · #2 03-13-2013, 07:52 PM

I use a 1/4" nap mini roller cover and it gave a nice texture. If you apply a water based black coat first and roll on the Duratex (after the base coat is dry) you will get better coverage.

Tedward

two fingers · #3 03-13-2013, 08:01 PM

You mean just water based paint?

two fingers · #4 03-13-2013, 09:53 PM

Any other roller suggestions guys?

icke2433 · #5 03-13-2013, 09:55 PM

I really liked the roller they supply, I would just order one and wait a few days for shipping. I tried using some other rollers from home depot but they couldn't do what I wanted them to do

dukeorock · #6 03-13-2013, 10:04 PM

The ones they recommend are my favorite by a little bit, but if you just can't wait, try the Foam Pro rollers...they work really well too. Home Depot sells them

basscooker · #7 03-13-2013, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dukeorock

The ones they recommend are my favorite by a little bit, but if you just can't wait, try the Foam Pro rollers...they work really well too. Home Depot sells them

how much can be done with a roller before changing it out?
duratex is water-cleanup, right? can you wash rollers and reuse them or should one start fresh for each cab?
i prefer my cabs to be a pretty coarse texture, is it in the technique as much as the roller?
i'm asking the tough questions today.....

creis2 · #8 03-13-2013, 11:38 PM

I did a Duratex job and found the roller made it way too rough. It felt like sandpaper and the cab was unpleasant to move.

My recent job I put a few coats on with a regular paint brush and used saran wrap to texture it. It looks like the vintage leather tolex, was much easier to apply and looks better.

Here's the directions I used:

http://www.acrytech.com/wp-content/u...ather-Look.pdf

dukeorock · #9 03-13-2013, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basscooker

how much can be done with a roller before changing it out?
duratex is water-cleanup, right? can you wash rollers and reuse them or should one start fresh for each cab?
i prefer my cabs to be a pretty coarse texture, is it in the technique as much as the roller?
i'm asking the tough questions today.....

Hah!

You can clean the rollers with water, but I don't anymore. Wrap em in plastic...if they get messed up you'll know quickly and they cost under $4

basscooker · #10 03-13-2013, 11:54 PM

sweet.
boy these threads could sure be married....

mod?
anywhooo, thanks dukeorock and all others (in BOTH of these threads haha). i'm expecting a call from a guy tomorrow (early) morning about making his "house-brand" guitar cabs..... good night all.

davelowell2 · #11 03-14-2013, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basscooker

how much can be done with a roller before changing it out?
duratex is water-cleanup, right? can you wash rollers and reuse them or should one start fresh for each cab?
i prefer my cabs to be a pretty coarse texture, is it in the technique as much as the roller?
i'm asking the tough questions today.....

I stick my used roller in a gallon sized plastic ziplock bag in between coats and it stays moist. I don't want to wash duratex down my drains.

You could experiment on scrap wood with different textures. I am doing my next one in the faux leather style.

dukeorock · #12 03-14-2013, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davelowell2

I stick my used roller in a gallon sized plastic ziplock bag in between coats and it stays moist. I don't want to wash duratex down my drains.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^

The rollers work better for me when they're a bit saturated as well.

two fingers · #13 03-14-2013, 08:01 PM

SO I guess most agree that the ones from acrytech are the ones to get. Crap. I was hoping to knock it out Friday. Oh well.

dukeorock · #14 03-14-2013, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by two fingers

SO I guess most agree that the ones from acrytech are the ones to get. Crap. I was hoping to knock it out Friday. Oh well.

Or go get a Foam Pro roller from Home Depot and get to work! I get great results with those...just a little trickier, but not exactly rocket surgery

two fingers · #15 03-14-2013, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dukeorock

Or go get a Foam Pro roller from Home Depot and get to work! I get great results with those...just a little trickier, but not exactly rocket surgery

Sorry, you did mention that. And I appreciate it, but our Home Depot closed down a couple years ago. The nearest one is quite a ways away. It would be less costly to order the blue spongy ones from Acrytech. I checked at our Lowe's today and they have nothing close. I called a couple of paint shops and they don't either. If this were my 45th Duratex project, I would probably let my impatience get the better of me and try something else. However, this being my first, I think I will play it safe.......... dang it. Being grownup sucks.

But thanks for the tip.

Mike Arnopol · #16 03-14-2013, 08:35 PM

Important thing---

The reason for the sandpaper-like finish is going over the surface with the roller after too long a period of time. The Duratex sets up really quickly.I'll roll 5 surfaces. Just to evenly cover. Then I'll carefully go over the corners. Be careful that it's rolling---not dragging. Then I'll quickly, evenly and lightly go over the surfaces. The key is not letting it set up too much.
I then use a rope with a hook or a
long Quick clamp and carefully set the hook or clamp into the speaker hole with the unfinished surface up on top. I'll then do the same process with the last surface.

This is just my technique---I'm sure there are many good ways to do it. I've done over 100 cabs with it and I get very consistent results.
Oh---I roll 1 coat with a smooth roller first then 2 textured coats.

What I'm doing now is spraying 2 coats (spray grade) with a bit of texture and then rolling the final coat. Even more consistent results---but I had to buy an expensive sprayer. I've done about 90 without the sprayer and they turned out great.

My suggestion is---buy their rollers. A paint store near me stocks them so it makes it a bit easier.

One more thing---try to get the humidity up to 50% in your work area. If it's too dry the Duratex sets up too quickly.

dukeorock · #17 03-14-2013, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Arnopol

Important thing---

The reason for the sandpaper-like finish is going over the surface with the roller after too long a period of time. The Duratex sets up really quickly.I'll roll 5 surfaces. Just to evenly cover. Then I'll carefully go over the corners. Be careful that it's rolling---not dragging. Then I'll quickly, evenly and lightly go over the surfaces. The key is not letting it set up too much.
I then use a rope with a hook or a
long Quick clamp and carefully set the hook or clamp into the speaker hole with the unfinished surface up on top. I'll then do the same process with the last surface.

This is just my technique---I'm sure there are many good ways to do it. I've done over 100 cabs with it and I get very consistent results.
Oh---I roll 1 coat with a smooth roller first then 2 textured coats.

What I'm doing now is spraying 2 coats (spray grade) with a bit of texture and then rolling the final coat. Even more consistent results---but I had to buy an expensive sprayer. I've done about 90 without the sprayer and they turned out great.

My suggestion is---buy their rollers. A paint store near me stocks them so it makes it a bit easier.

One more thing---try to get the humidity up to 50% in your work area. If it's too dry the Duratex sets up too quickly.

That's one upside to living in Tennessee. Too dry a climate is the least of my worries

two fingers · #18 03-14-2013, 09:35 PM

Thanks Mike and Duke! I live in Eastern NC. Nobody will EVER accuse our climate of being too dry. You can't swing a dead cat around here without hitting a body of water. I'm surrounded by creeks, rivers, ponds, lakes, inlets, and the ocean. You can SWIM through the air during the summer here. And here lately it has rained so much my 4 acres has pretty much become water front property because it never dries out. My neighbor and I are thinking about setting up a kayak obstacle course in the "new pond" (aka big mud puddle) between our properties.

So, short version..... I'm gonna get some of the rollers that Acrytech sells, and some smooth rollers. Hit the cab once with the smooth roller, and then again with the correct textured roller. I'll probably have a look after it cures to see where I am and if I need another textured coat I'll hit it again. Also, Mike, mine is a 4-10, so I should be able to rig up some sort of suspension contraption to make the cab hang flat and stable (because I know a little physics and I have 4 holes to work with). I have a small building out back with low rafters. I may even temporarily rig up something made of wood that kind of holds it steady from the baffle so I don't have to worry about it swinging around while I'm working on it. Something to ponder......

Thanks for your input guys!

kbakerde · #19 03-15-2013, 06:43 AM

Good luck with the Duratex, I just finished my first cab and head and they seem durable and look fantastic.

But I had a couple false starts so I will pass along my personal experience. Just make sure your wood is sanded down really well obviously, and per the manufacturer's instructions use some drywall spackle to fill holes to get a good smooth surface to work on.

I had a devil of a time getting the Duratex to cover the spackle, but it wouldn't adhere and flake off. So watch your tempurature, shouldn't be as big a problem where you are, but Duratex does not react well to cold. Also, it seems to work well if you put some kind of cheap primer coat under the duratex. I used a cheap flat black and that worked great.

Good luck, and show us pics when you're done!!

Mike Arnopol · #20 03-15-2013, 09:56 AM

I just use the Duratex as a primer. And in spite of what they claim, you can use more durable alternatives to patch. I use Bondo or epoxy. On wood cabs I've used Elmer's wood filler. I talk to the Acrytech guys all the time. They are just worried about adhesion. Just make sure it's scuffed up a bit.No way I would use drywall compound.