Duratex...who's done it?

nysbob · #1 07-19-2011, 02:56 PM

I'm thinking that I'd like to skin the rat fur off my venerable SSI boxes and give them a shell coat. Just wondering who's done it, how hard it was to do, and whether you're satisified with the final results.

Thanks in advance.

nashvillebill · #2 07-19-2011, 05:10 PM

I'm considering doing this to a cab too, when I get a paycheck rolling in again, so I'd like to know myself.

dukeisdog · #3 07-19-2011, 05:20 PM

Also interested. Would I need to take off my rat fur first? Or could I just cover it?

nashvillebill · #4 07-19-2011, 05:31 PM

Gotta pull the old Tolex or carpet off first.

edit: Here's a link to the Duratex speaker covering product page, they have application directions. http://www.acrytech.com/store.asp?pid=14119

dhomer · #5 07-19-2011, 11:26 PM

I have roller grade in my shop. Over bare wood, I do one coat of sanding sealer, sand w/220, then go two thin coats of the Duratex.. Dead easy to use, and its gorgeous...

nysbob · #6 07-20-2011, 06:15 AM

I can't remember what my boxes are even made of.

If it's OSB, will it work over that?

billfitzmaurice · #7 07-20-2011, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nysbob

Just wondering who's done it,

A few hundred, if not a few thousand, builders of my cabs have. IMO nothing else comes close.

Spinal Tapper · #8 07-20-2011, 09:29 AM

I stripped my SWR Goliath III rat fur off and re-tolexed her in baby blue. It turned out great but stripping the rat fur was a PAIN IN THE BUTT! Lots of brute strength involved, tearing and pulling. It didn't just come off. There was lots of dried glue and a lumpy mess that had to be sanded. Definitely the hardest part of the project.

**mikeddd** · #9 07-20-2011, 09:32 AM

What is the point of using sanding sealer before you sand? Aren't you just sanding off the stuff you just put on? Also, is roughing up the cabinet by using 220-grit necessary? What about on rounded-over edges? Do you have to rough those up too? I don't want to cut any corners with my fEARful build.

billfitzmaurice · #10 07-20-2011, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeddd

What is the point of using sanding sealer before you sand? Aren't you just sanding off the stuff you just put on? Also, is roughing up the cabinet by using 220-grit necessary? What about on rounded-over edges? Do you have to rough those up too? I don't want to cut any corners with my fEARful build.

I prep my cabs with a random orbit sander and 40 grit discs, no sealer, no primer.

**mikeddd** · #11 07-20-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

I prep my cabs with a random orbit sander and 40 grit discs, no sealer, no primer.

Thank you, Bill. I'll do the same. Do you "rough up" rounded over edges? I'm thinking I should do two coats of Duratex? Do I have to let it "really dry" before the 2nd coat? I bought two, 1-pint Duratex kits. Should be enough for 2 coats.

Rob22315 · #12 07-20-2011, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinal Tapper

I stripped my SWR Goliath III rat fur off and re-tolexed her in baby blue. It turned out great but stripping the rat fur was a PAIN IN THE BUTT! Lots of brute strength involved, tearing and pulling. It didn't just come off. There was lots of dried glue and a lumpy mess that had to be sanded. Definitely the hardest part of the project.

This part worries me a bit. I'm thinking about stripping the rat fur off a combo and a cab and replacing it with some canvas duck I have around the house.

It's worth trying the chemical approach before going down the sanding route IMHO, especially if the glue might be soft e.g. rubber cement. Some manufacturers use water based glue, some use contact cement so I'm going to try water first, then MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone IIRC). MEK will take any adhesive off anything just be careful about protecting your hands. When I've used MEK in the past it ate through all protective gloves I bought in about 10-30 minutes depending upon the weight of the gloves. I will probably follow the MEK with some mineral spirits to try to clear up any residue that's soaked into the wood.

I have a somewhat irrational preference to not resort to sanding because I feel like I'm partly destroying the item. I suppose someone who doesn't like the idea of a white canvas cab/combo might say that about what I'm going to do anyway. A heatgun is also worth a shot.

JLS · #13 07-20-2011, 11:04 AM

Pictures by yundev - Photobucket

BTW--the best tool to use for removing glue, is a
SCRAPER. That is, unless you like changing sanding belts/disks, every minute or so.

I tried both roller & spray grade, find I prefer the ease of the roller grade, esp. cleanup afterwords.

Great stuff, Duratex!

BTW: there is no need to use sanding sealer under Duratex.

nashvillebill · #14 07-20-2011, 11:05 AM

A heat gun can work wonders stripping off old stuff too.

Sometimes.

dhomer · #15 07-20-2011, 11:05 AM

I realize prep isn't necessary, but I've built a few cabs, and more often than not finishes tend to soak in and I'm sanding down paint. All I'm doing w/the sanding sealer is to reduce that soak-in. Two coats of roller grade is whats recommended, and like I said, the results are just gorgeous..

BurningSkies · #16 07-20-2011, 11:26 AM

**mikeddd** · #17 07-20-2011, 11:44 AM

^^Love that color!

nysbob · #18 07-20-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spinal Tapper

It turned out great but stripping the rat fur was a PAIN IN THE BUTT! Lots of brute strength involved, tearing and pulling. It didn't just come off. There was lots of dried glue and a lumpy mess that had to be sanded. Definitely the hardest part of the project.

This is, of course, a major concern of mine as well - but DAMN - those red cabs look sharp!

**mikeddd** · #19 07-20-2011, 01:42 PM

Those of you that did a round-over on the corners: When sanding the cab to prep for Duratex, did you "rough up the roundover" too? It may seem like a silly question, but I'm a bit OCD and obsess over every detail when it comes to assembling/fixing things. Thanks.

chadds · #20 07-20-2011, 01:44 PM

Wow so nice!!