Fair cash offer for a non-functional 70's V4?

JMac4strngr · #1 03-04-2011, 08:12 AM

A relative of mine who is a drummer, has a 70's Ampeg V4 that belongs to his friends dad that he is trying to sell. I stopped by last weekend to take a look at it, and overall it doesn't look too bad. He tried to fire it up for Me but it popped a fuse right off the bat. I told Him I would think about what I wanted to offer and get back to him.
You guys around here know way more about vintage "pegs" than I would ever hope to, so I came to ask:
1) What would be a fair cash offer to the guy, so I am getting a good deal and not "sticking it to him"?
2) Just a ball park guess-timate, cost wise what would I be looking at to get it up and running proper?

Thanks guys!

Grooveman1961 · #2 03-04-2011, 09:09 AM

So, ballpark:

A nice one ready to go, say 700.

Yours is popping fuses, so say it needs tubes, 200. Say its worse, and needs a transformer, 250 to 300. Say it's some of the passive components, bench time, 250-300 to track it down. Besides the fuse popping issue, probably could use a cap job, 250 - 300.

so ball park 400 or less, I'b be comfy at 300.

poor_gear_whore · #3 03-04-2011, 09:17 AM

Blowing fuses could be any number of things ranging from inexpensive to cost prohibitive. Would he be comfortable letting you take it to a tech to be diagnosed and basing the price off of repairs needed? If not I would offer him $200.

fu22ba55 · #4 03-04-2011, 09:20 AM

Could be any number of things wrong with it... Grooveman has good data above.

I've seen working ones sell for less than $500... I personally wouldn't offer more than $200 for a non-working unit. Too many variables.

Any way you could have a tech look at it and give you a repair estimate before purchasing? That way it's fair for everyone.

JMac4strngr · #5 03-04-2011, 09:26 AM

Yea, I was thinking around $200. He was wanting to do some swapping for a low buck bass and some cash. I prefer cash to swapping most anytime. The Idea of taking it in for a diagnostic look at, before making the deal sounds excellent. Thanks again guys!

Spinal Tapper · #6 03-04-2011, 09:26 AM

I purchased my early model V4B for $495, but ended up having to have it fixed up costing me close to $250

I'd say working condition $600-800

non working $350-500 (depending on the problem and condition, obviously)

throbbinnut · #7 03-04-2011, 09:27 AM

Offer $100 since you don't know what's wrong with it. Go as high as $150, but I wouldn't go any higher than that. He's not going to get much more than that since it doesn't work. You'll probably have to put in a couple hundred bucks to get it working, so remind him of this fact.

Chris

allexcosta · #8 03-04-2011, 09:46 AM

I´ve seen these go for 600 bucks in good condition. Bring the amp to a tech and ask for an estimate. Subtract that from 500 bucks (leave $100 for extras) and that´d be a fair offer...

anderbass · #9 03-04-2011, 10:10 AM

I agree taking it to an honest qualified amp tech first would be best, but an easy test you could try yourself is to remove the 4 powertubes and try another correct size fuse. If this stops the fuse from blowing when powered on you can be more confident the transformers are probably ok and it might just need 1 or more power tubes replaced and a cap job.

KramerBassFan · #10 03-04-2011, 10:15 AM

I got a V4 for $100.

Only needed most of its caps replaced, a power cord update, new tubes, and it is pretty grungy cosmetically. Not to mention all of the silk screening on the front is gone, it has black tape in strange patterns on the front, and is missing the back cover.

The blowing fuse could be a lot of things.... a bad 7027, or a bad transformer. The list goes on.

JimmyM · #11 03-04-2011, 01:43 PM

the blowing fuse could also have been just a fuse on its way out. did you try a second fuse?

JMac4strngr · #12 03-04-2011, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

the blowing fuse could also have been just a fuse on its way out. did you try a second fuse?

Actually He did, and it blew that one "right out the gate" as well. I told him not to bother trying it again as it may cause more damage to the amp. I am gonna probably get with him on it this weekend to see what the recent status is on it. May just offer swap'n'em my 60 buck craigslist squier P and 50 cash for it. If he bites, I'd Have about $140 in it including the new strings and used parts I put on the squier.....

JimmyM · #13 03-04-2011, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMac4strngr

Actually He did, and it blew that one "right out the gate" as well. I told him not to bother trying it again as it may cause more damage to the amp. I am gonna probably get with him on it this weekend to see what the recent status is on it. May just offer swap'n'em my 60 buck craigslist squier P and 50 cash for it. If he bites, I'd Have about $140 in it including the new strings and used parts I put on the squier.....

sweet! to me it sounds like you might have a tube out. when you get it, take all the tubes out, put a fresh fuse in, and turn it on. if it doesn't blow, put the rec tube in and try it again. if that doesn't blow, put the power tubes in also and try it. chances are it'll blow after that, but if not, add the pre tubes. but if it blows without tubes in it, proceed to a repair shop.

edit: oops, anderbass beat me to that one.

second edit: i forget if it has a rec tube or ss rec. if it has a ss rec, skip that rec tube part

JMac4strngr · #14 03-04-2011, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

sweet! to me it sounds like you might have a tube out. when you get it, take all the tubes out, put a fresh fuse in, and turn it on. if it doesn't blow, put the rec tube in and try it again. if that doesn't blow, put the power tubes in also and try it. chances are it'll blow after that, but if not, add the pre tubes. but if it blows without tubes in it, proceed to a repair shop.

edit: oops, anderbass beat me to that one.

second edit: i forget if it has a rec tube or ss rec. if it has a ss rec, skip that rec tube part

Sounds like an great idea Jimmym. If all works out I may try this before taking it to the tech.
I just got off the phone with my cousin who is working this deal (I have no idea what his angle is BTW), and he sounded hip to the swap idea. Basically all they are really looking for is a functional cheapo bass rig out of the deal. So I offered the squier, an old crate BX410 cab(of high quality MDF construction) that was basically given to me, and an old peavey head that I have had in storage for quite some time. If all hooks up I may be able to get this amp without coming out of pocket any cash.

JMac4strngr · #15 03-06-2011, 05:29 PM

Okay, Did the deal, got the amp and spent zero cash! Here are some pics. I may try taking the tubes out and trying a new fuse sometime this week when I get a minute......

I also noticed that someone somewhere along the line has converted it from the 7027's to 6L6's (must've been that "butch" guy as he found it necessary to engrave his name into the faceplate of the amp), is that good or bad?

coreyfyfe · #16 03-06-2011, 06:06 PM

No conversion needed for 6L6 use in this amp. The pinout as used in the V4 for 7027s and 6L6s (and 6550s for that matter) is identical, though a bias resistor may have been added internally to optimize things. 6L6s were usually used when 7027s were out of production. You should be able to slap some 7027s in there, have the bias set, and be good to go.

JMac4strngr · #17 03-06-2011, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coreyfyfe

No conversion needed for 6L6 use in this amp. The pinout as used in the V4 for 7027s and 6L6s (and 6550s for that matter) is identical, though a bias resistor may have been added internally to optimize things. 6L6s were usually used when 7027s were out of production. You should be able to slap some 7027s in there, have the bias set, and be good to go.

Excellent, Thanks for the info!
I am a bit of a noob to tube amps, as I have owned a couple but didn't really have to do anything to them other than swap some tubes as needed. I may try to figure out the fuse blowing issue if its something I can fix without opening it up. If it has to be opened up, I'll be taking it to the guy's who know what they're doing. Talked with a guitard buddy of mine, and He recommended some Guys who did some work on his JCM who seem on the up and up. I probably give'em a call tomorrow to see what they'll charge to bench and troubleshoot it.

coreyfyfe · #18 03-06-2011, 06:45 PM

I wouldn't try trouble shooting on your own. I'd save time and effort and just bring it to a tech.

throbbinnut · #19 03-06-2011, 07:03 PM

Hey man, I'm an hour south of you down I-85. If you want to make the drive I could look at it for you. I think Wizard charges $75 minimum. I'd probably do it for $50. Hahaha

But seriously, if you don't have a variac and multimeter, you need to take it to somebody who has experience with tube amps. There's 540VDC inside that puppy, and it can kill you dead.

Chris

JMac4strngr · #20 03-06-2011, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by throbbinnut

Hey man, I'm an hour south of you down I-85. If you want to make the drive I could look at it for you. I think Wizard charges $75 minimum. I'd probably do it for $50. Hahaha

But seriously, if you don't have a variac and multimeter, you need to take it to somebody who has experience with tube amps. There's 540VDC inside that puppy, and it can kill you dead.

Chris

I am definitely not gonna open'er up, as I am fully aware as how dangerous the goodies inside these amps are.
My friend recommended Andrew's amp lab, and had nothing but good things to say about them.
I had some dealings with wizard years ago on an old GK head I had some issues with, and they just couldn't get it right for me even after two trips. So I won't be dealing with them on anything.

Chris......Dropped ya a PM!