Fdeck's HPF - Page 26

kringle77 · #**501** 10-29-2012, 03:30 PM

Hopefully Mr. Deck isn't too swamped. I put in an order for the series 3 that will be built into a custom DI.

**TimWatson** · #**502** 10-29-2012, 08:08 PM

Should receive this tomorrow. It will be installed in my custom Solid Body U-Bass. It is a series 2. The passive U-Bass through the F-Deck sounded better than the american made solid body one with electronics in it. I will give updates.

mbelue · #**503** 10-29-2012, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimWatson

Should receive this tomorrow. It will be installed in my custom Solid Body U-Bass. It is a series 2. The passive U-Bass through the F-Deck sounded better than the american made solid body one with electronics in it. I will give updates.

Very interested in this application, would love to hear your observations about the install process as a comparison to standard preamps.

fdeck · #**504** 10-29-2012, 08:40 PM

Hi, and thanks for all of the kind words. I'm keeping up with orders, but response may be anywhere from instant, to a few days. As I understand it, the customer automatically gets a notice from PayPal/USPS when I generate the shipping label, but I've heard that folks get their preamp before the notice.

About the built-in preamp. I have to confess that I'm of two minds about the idea. On the one hand, it might be just the thing for something like a piezo-equipped acoustic bass. On the other hand, the build is a bit more complex due to the wiring, and there is going to be the issue of how to support the installation process. The nice thing about a preamp-in-a-box, is that I can test it in the same way that it will be used.

**TimWatson** · #**505** 10-29-2012, 10:16 PM

To piggyback on that^... Francis is doing me a favor which I really appreciate, building this special module. My custom U-Bass builder is quite creative and flexible with wood, and has an electronic engineering background. We are designing the control cavity around this module. It will literally be implemented in the instrument by eyeballing it and creating a way to install it as we go. Not a task for a novice. Thanks again, Francis! I will definitely keep updating you all.

rasbass · #**506** 10-30-2012, 08:53 PM

Just got my series three. Very prompt delivery, nicely built, and it seems to be working as intended (after two gigs in feedback-filled rooms). Well done Mr. Deck.

I am planning on "hard-wiring" it to my Genz-Benz. That is to use velcro to hold it in place, proper length patch cords left in place, etc., to keep my set-up quick and simple.

Quick question- if it is plugged in with an adapter while the battery is in place, does it run on the battery or on the AC? I know it may sound silly, but I would be able to be able to keep it plugged in AC, but have the battery installed in case I need the outlet for something else.

Thanks.

fdeck · #**507** 10-30-2012, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rasbass

Just got my series three. Very prompt delivery, nicely built, and it seems to be working as intended (after two gigs in feedback-filled rooms). Well done Mr. Deck.

I am planning on "hard-wiring" it to my Genz-Benz. That is to use velcro to hold it in place, proper length patch cords left in place, etc., to keep my set-up quick and simple.

Quick question- if it is plugged in with an adapter while the battery is in place, does it run on the battery or on the AC? I know it may sound silly, but I would be able to be able to keep it plugged in AC, but have the battery installed in case I need the outlet for something else.

Thanks.

Thanks, and good question. When the adapter is plugged into the jack, it physically disconnects the battery -- even if you unplug the adapter from the wall outlet. So you can leave the battery installed. I use the time honored approach of an adapter jack with a built-in switch.

**JxBass** · #**508** 10-31-2012, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rasbass

Just got my series three. Very prompt delivery, nicely built, and it seems to be working as intended (after two gigs in feedback-filled rooms). Well done Mr. Deck.

I am planning on "hard-wiring" it to my Genz-Benz. That is to use velcro to hold it in place, proper length patch cords left in place, etc., to keep my set-up quick and simple.

Quick question- if it is plugged in with an adapter while the battery is in place, does it run on the battery or on the AC? I know it may sound silly, but I would be able to be able to keep it plugged in AC, but have the battery installed in case I need the outlet for something else.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdeck

Thanks, and good question. When the adapter is plugged into the jack, it physically disconnects the battery -- even if you unplug the adapter from the wall outlet. So you can leave the battery installed. I use the time honored approach of an adapter jack with a built-in switch.

As the unit itself does not have an on/off switch is there any harm done to the Series 3 if it remains plugged in when not in use?

Andyman001 · #**509** 10-31-2012, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdeck

Here is my plan for the design. The prototype that Mike tested took me a couple hours to build by hand on turret board.

Quote:

I'd like to start by getting that design out as a DIY project.

My intention is for the design to be free for anybody who wants to build one.

MuthaFunk · #**510** 10-31-2012, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JxBass

As the unit itself does not have an on/off switch is there any harm done to the Series 3 if it remains plugged in when not in use?

It does have an on/off switch built into the output jack. You can turn it off by unplugging the cable from the output jack. If you have the DC jack plugged in there to supply power there should be no problems keeping the instrument cables plugged in but if your running a battery you may want to remove the output cable when not in use to conserve batteries.

If your question is about leaving the power on it indefinitely while your not using your amp it will be fine. Many audiophiles with very expensive preamps don't ever power them down and still see a twenty year lifespan or more out of them. In that case only the electrolytic capacitors tend to drift. I don't think Francis used any electrolytic caps in the HPF so you'd probably see much more than 20 years service out of it.

fdeck · #**511** 10-31-2012, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andyman001

Thanks for the reminder! I do plan on getting something out. I decided to put everything else on hold until I got into a decent groove with taking and shipping orders on the new unit. Now I can get back to my original plan, which was to share a DIY friendly version of the circuit.

fdeck · #**512** 10-31-2012, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MuthaFunk

It does have an on/off switch built into the output jack. You can turn it off by unplugging the cable from the output jack. If you have the DC jack plugged in there to supply power there should be no problems keeping the instrument cables plugged in but if your running a battery you may want to remove the output cable when not in use to conserve batteries.

If your question is about leaving the power on it indefinitely while your not using your amp it will be fine. Many audiophiles with very expensive preamps don't ever power them down and still see a twenty year lifespan or more out of them. In that case only the electrolytic capacitors tend to drift. I don't think Francis used any electrolytic caps in the HPF so you'd probably see much more than 20 years service out of it.

It is true that you can leave the DC jack plugged in with no ill effects.

Just to make a minor note, the HPF-Pre contains some very small electrolytics: Two power supply filtering caps, one DC blocking cap in the output of the circuit, and a timing cap in the battery indicator. However, I followed the rule of only using electrolytics in places where there is a constant DC voltage across them.

rasbass · #**513** 10-31-2012, 02:38 PM

Thanks for the prompt response fdeck.

To push it one step further, could I "hard-wire" my HPF to my amp with hi-tech fasteners (velcro, duct tape) including an output cord from the HPF to the input on my amp, with the battery in the HPF, and by leaving the adapter plug inserted, not use up the battery at all? (Then I would just remove the adapter plug when ready to play)

And since it is the presence of the plug that defeats the battery and not the presence of AC, I could even cut the wire off the end of an old adapter of the correct size leaving just the plug, and use it as a "battery saver plug-in" between gigs without doing any harm?

And then would the presence of my "battery saver plug-in" work as a poor man's on/off switch?
(That is, stick the plug "in" to turn it off, plug out to operate, using battery only when out)

Thanks.

MuthaFunk · #**514** 10-31-2012, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rasbass

Thanks for the prompt response fdeck.

To push it one step further, could I "hard-wire" my HPF to my amp with hi-tech fasteners (velcro, duct tape) including an output cord from the HPF to the input on my amp, with the battery in the HPF, and by leaving the adapter plug inserted, not use up the battery at all? (Then I would just remove the adapter plug when ready to play)

And since it is the presence of the plug that defeats the battery and not the presence of AC, I could even cut the wire off the end of an old adapter of the correct size leaving just the plug, and use it as a "battery saver plug-in" between gigs without doing any harm?

And then would the presence of my "battery saver plug-in" work as a poor man's on/off switch?
(That is, stick the plug "in" to turn it off, plug out to operate, using battery only when out)

Thanks.

That will work exactly as you want it to. Good idea.

delta7fred · #**515** 11-01-2012, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rasbass

... I could even cut the wire off the end of an old adapter of the correct size leaving just the plug, ...

I would leave enough wire on the plug to attach it to your rig as loose items have a nasty habit of disappearing, especially on dark stages.

bumperbass · #**516** 11-01-2012, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BurningSkies

Well, I think yes and no, to placement. I chose to put mine behind my preamp rather than in front. This after realizing that my preamp was CREATING its own deep low harmonic content, than what might be just coming from my bass.

It wouldn't be an issue in many amp setups, but with tubes, its very possible, depending upon design for the preamp to actually be adding to the harmonic content in the below 100hz range. That's part of why lots of tube amps are loved by players. I didn't have a noticeable problem when I was running my Kern, which while tube was a very 'well behaved' tube pre. The Monique, on the other hand, has a lot of its magic in the added tube harmonics and it WAS causing a problem, and clipping my power amp with the deep reaching lows.

That's why I'm thinking of putting mine AFTER my Sansamp RPM. The Sansamp effect add a certain amount of extra lows in the signal. Then again maybe put it in the effects loop to help out the FOH subs. EXPERIMENT. Ain't that part of the fun?

burnunit · #**517** 11-04-2012, 06:25 PM

Received my Series 1 a month or so ago and used it for the first time today at practice. Could not be more satisfied with this unit. Played my double bass with Full Circle through the pre and then into a Peavey VB2 / Ampeg SVT210AV. This little guy is a room-tamer. A no-nonsense device that does exactly what I need it to do.

It allowed me to be present in the mix without all the mud.

gscroggin · #**518** 11-06-2012, 09:29 AM

Just placed an order for a Series 3! I'm looking forward to seeing not only what it does with my Upton Revolution equipped DB, but my electrics in general when running through my new Markbass Minimark. I love the sound of the amp, but the low end on my piezo equipped basses gets kinda thick and woofy. It will be an added bonus if I can drop my Fishman B-II as well (used for 10K impedance and gain).

Doug Parent · #**519** 11-06-2012, 09:07 PM

I'm late to the party but my series 3 works as anticipated and Francis got it out to me pretty darn quick. Thanks again Francis, I'll be sending you more customers hopefully in the future.

astack · #**520** 11-08-2012, 05:04 PM

Joining the bandwagon.

Looking forward to using it with the DB and EB, especially in anticipation of moving towards a mid-powered tube amp and sealed cabs.

Hmm, and the HPF got me thinking about controlling the "range" of the instrument in the mix. Would there be any interest in a similar LPF / speaker sim box? I know a few pedals have one built in, but as a standalone. Not quite as useful as the HPF, I know...