fEarful™ 12/6 & 15/6 enclosure designs - FREE!

[greenboy]

This is gonna be major WHUMPazz in a compact package.

Just waiting for a few final specs before filling in the blanks. I've got 6 iterations charted and measured. This could actually slim down from 18" to as far to 17" and have phase coherence and near-identical low frequency reponse with the larger version. It stacks with the fEarful 15+6.



For standalone use or when using two of them it can be set either way. If building two, the baffle should be mirror-image for best dispersion.

[davio]

You're killin' me, gb! Good thing I don't have money for materials right now.

Can you predict approximate frequency response from the cab? Are you putting a crossover in?

[()smoke()]

forgive my ignorace--do you build and sell these or only offer the design for other to self build?

i saw a reference to fEARful in another thread, and it's interesting

thanks!

[OldogNewTrick]

that's really cool of you to share these plans !!!

I'm going to try model the cab in WinISD to have a looksee what the response is like

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by davio

Can you predict approximate frequency response from the cab? Are you putting a crossover in?

Unlike almost any commercial bass cabs on the market, these are large enough and tuned correctly to give full "flat" presentation of a low B/A string's octave overtone, and above that, and actually do a low F# well. Not only that - they don't run out of excursion even driven with lots of low frequency content well beyond their thermal rating.

I bi-amp, and building a near-perfect passive crossover for these drivers involves more than just doing the correct math, but also doing lots of acoustic measurements. But some of the commercially available generic crossovers should do fine. Sure, they won't be driver-specific but compared to typical woofer/tweeter cabs they should sound magificient with the right choice for the drivers involved.

At some point I suppose I could plug actual values into a crossover calculator and do a little better but every time I start I end up with such a high component count trying to get near the perfection I already get with an asymmetric active crossover... ; }

[bongomania]

That looks mighty cool!

Originally Posted by greenboy

If building two, the baffle needs to be mirror-image for best dispersion.

Does this mean the cones would be mirror image, i.e. for one of them the 6 should be on the left? Or below instead of above the 12?

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by bongomania

Does this mean the cones would be mirror image, i.e. for one of them the 6 should be on the left? Or below instead of above the 12?

Any combination of two cabs, one needs the midrange cone on the left, the other on the right. Then you place the cab on the floor with the midrange cone at top, and the second cab on top of it, upside down. The two midrnage cones end up next to each other.

[bongomania]

Any cost/benefit to having the top cab's ports at its relative top or relative bottom?

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by ()smoke()

forgive my ignorace--do you build and sell these or only offer the design for other to self build?

The plans are free. It's up to you to figure out any dimensional changes needed for different types of joins (rabbet, dado, etc). Essential hardware choices shoould be discussed in this thread and any other hardware and finishing is left to builders' discretion.

I've also recommended that people check out some finish carpenters or fine cabinetry contractors in their area if they because of tools or experience don't wish to DIY. With the economy in the state it is right now I'm sure they would appreciate the work.

At some point I should design some simple passive crossovers, but actually I'd encourage others to participate : }

[davio]

Originally Posted by greenboy

Any combination of two cabs, one needs the midrange cone on the left, the other on the right. Then you place the cab on the floor with the midrange cone at top, and the second cab on top of it, upside down. The two midrnage cones end up next to each other.

Are you saying that optimally, the midranges should be right next to (on top of) eachother? Does the lateral ~12 inches between left and right mounted mids make that much of a difference when it's on a stage?

BTW, when do you start shipping?

[DaLaklandGroove]

Hey gb,
Would a Beyma 605nd or 18 Sound 410nd work ok in place of the Emi. Alpha ?

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by bongomania

Any cost/benefit to having the top cab's ports at its relative top or relative bottom?

It's actually free bracing/rigidity benefit to use a shelf instead of tubes, and I've been lavish in frontal area so they don't chuff even when hit with lots of wattage and low frequency content. In fact, if you ever do hear chuffing it's time to add a cab - because they are set to chuff just before overexcursion.

[i_got_a_mohawk]

I thought you would have ideally wanted the mid range driver in its own enclosure?

But im not as knowing in speaker things as you

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by davio

Does the lateral ~12 inches between left and right mounted mids make that much of a difference when it's on a stage?

Yeah, it messes up horizontal dispersion patterns, and forgoes any coupling advantages in the midrange.

BTW, when do you start shipping?

12th of Nevtember ; }

[bongomania]

Originally Posted by greenboy

It's actually free bracing/rigidity benefit to use a shelf instead of tubes, and I've been lavish in frontal area so they don't chuff even when hit with lots of wattage and low frequency content. In fact, if you ever do hear chuffing it's time to add a cab - because they are set to chuff just before overexcursion.

Err... that's nice but is there any cost/benefit to having the top cab's ports at the top versus the bottom?

You described first making two cabs with mirror-image baffles, then said take two identical cabs and flip the top one upside down. I'm trying to understand if one method would have better results than the other.

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by DaLaklandGroove

Hey gb,
Would a Beyma 605nd or 18 Sound 410nd work ok in place of the Emi. Alpha ?

Yes, in fact I consider especially the 18 Sound 6ND410 to be essential for the 3015LF version because there the Alpha-6A really can't keep up. In a 3012LF version, it would need to be padded back 4 to 6 db though. The Beyma 605Nd is a good choice too but not as flat as the 18 Sound and a little trickier to do a crossover for. Same with the B&C 6MDN44.

[alexclaber]

Very nice. As soon as I can get hold of a 3012LF over here I'll be making a similar cab available, though I'm going to use the same tall shallow format as The Compact, possibly even the same exact external dimensions to give the woofer plenty of breathing room. I think I'll stick with the 605Nd for the midrange but include a bypassable pad for when you're using a second woofer-only cab. Should be a fantastic standalone cab with much more bottom and max SPL than any 1x12" or 2x10". Won't be cheap but it will be great value!

Alex

[zac2944]

Nice work GB. I think it is great that you post plans like this. It really makes a good first time DIY possible form someone without much experience.

So... who's building the first one?

I'm looking into a 2x12"+6" version myself. The Vb and Fb I've calculated are pretty consistent with what you've got here. My biggest challenge is figuring out a crossover design for a 4ohm LF load and an 8ohm HF/Mid load.

[davio]

When will the 3012LF be available for retail?

[zac2944]

Originally Posted by davio

When will the 3012LF be available for retail?

Word is sometime in February; but you never know.