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  #1  
Old 07-10-2010, 10:34 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
fEarful 12/6/1

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Hey guys,

I am considering building a fEarful 12/6/1 to replace my avatar 210 w/ deltas. I know someone sells kits to build, but I was wondering if anyone sells a 3-way cross-over suitable for this cabinet. I dont think I will be able to construct the crossover on my own, because just looking at the diy diagrams for crossovers is making me sweat.

Thanks in advance
  #2  
Old 07-10-2010, 11:07 AM
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Location: Quebec, Canada
I'm not an expert, but I've heard some used the Peavey ECS 3X.

It's fully customizable, with adjustable frequency points for the mid and the horn.
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  #3  
Old 07-10-2010, 07:06 PM
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AMS Enterprises Part #: 50-5406 (3-way 800/4500)

Another choice if you don't want to build your own is this one by AMS Enterprises: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...LAID=220554098
Its an 8-ohm 3-way with optimum crossover points at 800/4500Hz for the 12/6/1 build and is rated for 600 watts rms. I have a similar one with crossover points at 640/4500 in a 15/6/1 I just built. You won't be dissappointed.


Last edited by 5StringPocket : 07-10-2010 at 08:25 PM.
  #4  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:57 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Is this one better than the eminence or carvin equivalents? Also does it come with directions? The ones with the jack attached appear more attractive to me but if this is a substantially better product I think I can bite the bullet, maybe some TBers could explain how to wire it up in laymans terms with pics
  #5  
Old 07-10-2010, 09:59 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
After looking at the image again, I realized everything is labeled. Hi, low, and mids..... I assume you connect positives to positives and negatives to negatives
  #6  
Old 07-11-2010, 01:45 PM
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That's correct but reverse the leads (+ to - and - to plus) at the midrange speaker to correct for phase inversion you get with a 2nd order crossover. The MCM link advertises 18dB crossover slope but it's really 12dB which is 2nd order. (I spoke with Angelo Spandria at AMS Enterprises who makes these about this.) You'll probably also want a variable attenuator for the tweeter. See the fEarful wiki for part number and supplier.

Last edited by 5StringPocket : 07-11-2010 at 01:50 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-11-2010, 04:37 PM
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Location: Algonac Michigan
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Do you still have to do a L pad for the mid right?
  #8  
Old 07-12-2010, 11:47 AM
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If you are using a 3012LF with an Alpha 6 then you don't need a pad because the sensitivities match pretty well but with a 3015LF and an 18Sound 6ND410 mid, definitely. Some people use variable pads but mine has the L-pad recommended in the fEarful wiki.
http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.p..._L-pad_details
Note: using all 8ohm resistors gives -3.5dB, the -3dB uses three 7.5ohm resistors in parallel in the lead followed by a pair of 20ohm resistors in parallel.

Last edited by 5StringPocket : 07-12-2010 at 11:51 AM.
  #9  
Old 07-12-2010, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SF Bay Area
Curious, how does the AMS xover compare quality-wise to the "cheap but good" DIY version??
  #10  
Old 07-13-2010, 09:22 AM
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The CBG is incredibly easy to build if you can solder. It spec's heavier duty components than the x-over pictured above.

I recently completed a second 12.6 and used the AlphaLite - that shaved a couple of additional pounds and sounds fine. IMO - a 12.6 design using the Alpha/AlphaLite doesn't require an additional pad using the CBG x-over.
In my opinion after working with it for a bit the AlphaLite is the way to go in a 12.6, 12.6.1 In a 15.6 then the B&C MD638 or 18Sound make sense.

My original 12.6 is a bi-amp cab using a B&C MD638 mid which is a really sweet sounding mid driver - When I used it used with the CBG x-over (mounted in an external box) it needed a pad (I used 6 db) as it and the 18 Sound are much more efficient.
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