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  #1  
Old 03-28-2011, 09:45 AM
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fEARful 12/6 Flatpack Deluxe Kit From Speaker Hardware Build Thread & Review

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Disclosure: Leland offered (and I accepted) a discount on this kit because of the very small role I played in hooking him up with Greenboy. I have no finacial relationship with Leland or his company other than as a very satisfied customer.

I spec'd and ordered this kit before Leland had it up on his website, so my kit may not be indicative of the final product. I added rubber feet to my order, but am supplying my own PL and damping material. I don't know which corners come with the stock kit, but I spec'd the small ones to match my first 12/6. I also requested a mirror image baffle so I can stack the 2 cabs. Also note that I probably didn’t follow the assembly sequence in the instructions Leland would normally provide.

My kit arrived late Saturday afternoon. I had house guests over the weekend, so I didn't get much done on it.

Leland likes to re-purpose, so the box was oversized for the contents. About 1/3 of the box was filled with trash bags of shredded paper.

Before opening:


Contents removed:


One of my "special requests" was a mirror-imaged baffle so this cab will stack with my other 12/6, so that was the first thing I checked. I was dismayed to see a cutout for a wave guide. Leland offered to replace the baffle, but after considering the options (which included ordering the HF section), I decided to just patch the hole.

I also noticed that there was no cutout on the back panel for the jack plate. This will allow me locate the plate to suit my needs, but could present a problem for someone without the tools to cut it themselves.

None of the Lowes stores in my area carry Arauco, so this is the first time I've seen it. Pretty nice stuff. Seven plys and the "good" side is smoother than the 5-ply pine ply I've used in the past. I don't think the grain will telegraph through the paint as much. The outer veneer seems to be softer than the pine I’ve used. (This might be something to keep in mind if you’re using a finish other than Duratex.)

A couple pieces had bowed (but not twisted) slightly during shipping. I don't know what the weather was like between Kansas and PA, but it's been in the teens here the past several mornings. I don't anticipate having any problems during assembly.

Sunday morning, my brother-in-law and I started gluing things up. Knowing we’d have only a few minutes at a time to work on the cab, I decided to start by gluing the braces to the back and sides. The biscuits made it easy to align the braces...no measuring and marking required. I just made sure they’d clear the outer panels.

I don't have a brad nailer or clamps that reach into the braces and didn’t want to spend the time drilling pilot holes, using and removing screws, then patching until I get to the larger panels. So I glued the braces to each panel, stacked them on top of each other, and then put weights on top of the stack. This helped take the slight bow out of the one side panel. (Building the "box" first would have taken the bow out.) The only problem I had with this method was that the horizontal braces for the side panels were slightly smaller than the vertical braces. A few shims solved the problem.



Later in the morning, I cut and glued a patch for the wave guide opening in the baffle.



After lunch I assembled the mid box. Leland had thoughtfully re-done the biscuit slot(s) for the mid chamber bottom/brace to accommodate the mirror-image baffle, but overlooked the side of the mid box. Even without the biscuit, it was easy to line up when I clamped it to the baffle.


While looking over the parts and planning my assembly sequencing I had noticed that Leland makes the top and bottom panels identical to each other and then adds the biscuit slot to the bottom panel for the shelf support. The result is that the bottom panel has biscuit slots meant for aligning the baffle with the top panel. I filled the slots with wood putty. While I was at it, I puttied the patch in the baffle and a few other dings in the Arauco.



I don't know when I'll have time to work on it again, but I'll add to this thread as I go along.
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2011, 10:37 AM
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Yea, the bottom panel was a mistake in those biscuit cuts. You got the prototype, so all the flaws are there. Easy way to patch biscuits is glue a biscuit in, cut it off after it dries.

Interesting assembly procedure. Not the way I envisioned it, but it works. I did it built around the baffle. Insert the side braces and mid chamber assembly from the back, install the back and then install it's braces through the baffle. The pillar braces are a shade (approx 1/16) short on purpose. PL will fill the gaps, and the way I assembled it the fractionally shorter braces make the assembly much easier.
  #3  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:06 PM
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:22 PM
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I'm very interested in doing the 15/6 kit soon. Looking forward to seeing how this goes.

Thanks for offering these kits, Leland. The cutting was the only thing I was hesitant about getting right with my current tools.
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:33 PM
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I just spent some time poking around Leland's/speakerhardware.com website.
much more complete in terms of understandable ordering and complete kits.

very nice.
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelandcrooks View Post
You got the prototype, so all the flaws are there.
I figured as much. Guess I should have mentioned that in the first post.

Quote:
Interesting assembly procedure. Not the way I envisioned it, but it works.
I learned on my last build that it's best to assemble the entire outer box at once. Keeps things true and square. But I knew I wouldn't have more than a few minutes at a time to work on it yesterday.
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Last edited by wcriley : 03-28-2011 at 04:11 PM.
  #7  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:51 PM
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Sub'd as well.

I was thinking about doing a fearful build over the coming winter when I have more down time, but this looks a lot quicker and do-able for me. My builders motto has always been "Measure once, cut twice, shim to fit", but this looks a little better thought out than I usually get!
  #8  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:53 PM
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Leland, didn't it cost a lot to ship all those weights?
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:40 PM
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Nah, he made me supply my own weights.
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:45 PM
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Well...there was a serious flaw in my process.
Even with 50lbs of weight on the stack, the back warped away from the spine brace. Darn PA weather!
Tonight I worked some glue under the loose end and clamped it.


I used rattle cans to paint the last cab. That was expensive (I used 3 cans) but made it easy to spray inside the port after the cab was finished.
This time I'm using brush-on paint, so I put a coat on the areas inside the port before I go any futher. Can't tell from the crappy pic, but it's green.


I doubt I'll have time to work on it again until later in the week.
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  #11  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:35 PM
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:52 PM
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These kits are hard to resist. I am sure the kinks will be worked out.
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:55 PM
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@ wcriley

your pics with the weights and clamps remind me of my first build (an ElectroVoice TL606). DIY is fuuuuuun.

I'll probably get a couple of these kits from Leland. They look very cool
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:55 PM
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the biscuit joinery means a moron like me might be able to do it too
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
the biscuit joinery means a moron like me might be able to do it too
I think even my moron kids could do it... with me in charge giving directions [you missed a spot]... while drinking... scotch.
  #16  
Old 03-28-2011, 09:59 PM
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Interesting to see how the assembly goes.

So there are biscuit joints pre cut on all the panels and one just needs to glue them up?

Robby
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
So there are biscuit joints pre cut on all the panels and one just needs to glue them up?
Yes. You should see my jigsaw puzzle biscuit jigs.

Quote:
I just spent some time poking around Leland's/speakerhardware.com website.
much more complete in terms of understandable ordering and complete kits.
Thanks. It's harder than it looks. Thinking through all the iterations possible, and trying to make it cogent. The crossovers are tough.

Serious construction pics and instructions coming soon. As soon as I can get my pro photographer here.
Here's one of my preliminary pics showing how I started the assembly.
  #18  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:23 AM
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I’ll not be able to get anything done on the cab until Thursday evening at the earliest, but here are some random thoughts. (Typed at work this morning.)

If I had it to do over again, I’d weight down the pack of wood for several days before unwrapping it. I scattered the pieces in my basement as soon as they arrived and started gluing the next morning, which probably contributed to the warping I experienced.

PL Premium gets discussed a lot in BFM’s forum; not so much here on TB. Here are a few tips I’ve picked up:
WEAR GLOVES! I’m yet to find anything that gets it off my fingers, other than letting it wear off.
The higher the temperature and humidity, the quicker it sets. I dampen the joint with water before applying the glue, which seems to speed things up.
Be careful where you put the caulking gun when you’re not using it. PL oozes out of the nozzle long after you release the pressure.
The easiest way to neaten things up where the PL squeezes out of joints is to let it cure and then scrape it off with a paint scraper or wood chisel. (I picked up that tip from BFM’s plans.) Trying to wipe it off while its wet just makes more of a mess.
Because PL expands, it wants to be under pressure while it cures. For the strongest results you’ll want to clamp/nail/screw each joint.

Most of us building from one of Leland’s flatpacks don’t have a brad nailer or a bunch of clamps in various sizes at our disposal. I’ve had success with the method BFM outlines in the plans for his DIY cabs: Drill pilot holes and use drywall screws every 4 to 6 inches along the joints. After the glue cures, remove the screws and fill the holes with putty before applying the finish. The pilot holes are necessary to keep the wood from splitting and (as I learned the hard way) it’s important to use the right size drill bit. I’ll try to remember to take and post pics demonstrating this procedure.

Had I gotten a “production” kit rather than an early prototype, the only tools I’d have needed would have been a drill (with appropriate bits) and a few clamps. You need at least 2 clamps to use the piece that Leland thoughtfully provides for keeping the panels square. One could maybe use a hammer and nails instead of a drill and screws, but I’m not sure nails would grip well enough to pull out any bows in the plywood.
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2011, 09:15 AM
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Buying an inexpensive electric brad nailer is a worthy investment. You can get a good one for 60 bucks. And you'll love having it - one of the best tools I ever bought was my air brad nailer. I've only used it maybe 10 times but every time I do it saves me a lot of effort.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:23 AM
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