Fixing Ampeg Feet Help...

TheDialog · #1 06-20-2011, 01:49 PM

Ampeg 810 cab...

One of the rubber feet came off the other night (nothing new). I was wondering if anyone has had experience with filling the whole and putting the foot back on in the exact same spot? I've done this before, but I moved the feet a little bit. I'm trying to not do that this time.

Thanks!

TheDialog · #2 06-20-2011, 04:08 PM

anyone?

someparts · #3 06-20-2011, 04:12 PM

If it's the screw pulling out of the wood you can probably do the old wooden toothpicks and wood glue trick to make up the size. Depends on how much room you need to make up I guess.

TheDialog · #4 06-20-2011, 11:18 PM

I did wood from large matchsticks last time...I think I'll go wood glue this time.

Sartori · #5 06-21-2011, 01:32 AM

I usually use matchsticks + wood glue. Dip the matchsticks in the wood glue, put as many as will fit into the hole, and then put the screw in.

staindbass · #6 06-21-2011, 05:09 AM

the matchsticks arent very dense wood. it will pull out again. try round toothpicks(not flat ones) and glue. wait till the glue dries then screw it in.

beans-on-toast · #7 06-21-2011, 05:40 AM

You can use a wood epoxy filler like this (QuikWood® - Epoxies and Adhesives - Polymerics Systems, Inc.) (Quikwood Epoxy Putty Stick - Rockler Woodworking Tools). Hardware stores sell several different types. Look for one that is good for structural repairs. Fill the hole completely, let it harden, drill a pilot hole smaller than the screw size, then install the new screw. Don't over tighten the screw so as to strip the threads.

Another approach is to drill out the hole and glue in a hardwood dowel plug, drill a pilot hole and then install the screw.

punkrocko · #8 06-21-2011, 07:45 AM

At this point you may want to consider a threaded insert/T-nut solution.

beans-on-toast · #9 06-21-2011, 09:13 AM

I agree with you.

The epoxy approach is best if you want the repair to keep things as original as possible.

I think that the T-nut is the best way to fix it. The screws will never be pulled out again. That is how the SVT head has its feet attached. They saved some money by not using T-nuts on the cab. They should have.

TheDialog · #10 06-21-2011, 09:24 AM

I probably will go T if it comes out again, but for now I went wood/wood glue and re-drilled the same hole. It fixed the problem per usual...Now I need to fix a bum wheel from taking the cab too quickly off a long ramp

TheDialog · #11 06-21-2011, 09:26 AM

For now it stands again

beans-on-toast · #12 06-21-2011, 10:42 AM

Nice amps. Always good if you can fix things yourself.

If you have holes from the first repair that went through the cabinet, it would be a good idea to fill them to avoid any air leaks.

Seans · #13 06-21-2011, 01:31 PM

Do as you have, by fixing the hole, but drill right through and put a bolt through and nyloc nut and washer on the back, job done, although you will need to remove a speaker to get in. Otherwise I think it's just going to happen again.

Sneakypete · #14 06-21-2011, 01:43 PM

If you want to keep it 'original' then carry on with toothpicks and glue but a better solution might be to get some 2"x1" hardwood and make a couple of runners with 30 degree bevels on the ends. Remove the two lowest drivers and use plenty of screws through the cab into the runners. I did this once on a very heavy 2x15 I had years ago and never looked back but it was a cheap s/hand cab and definitely not iconic!

oldfretless · #15 06-21-2011, 01:44 PM

The rubber feet came off my SVT cab pretty quickly. My father cut a 2x4 2 foot long and screwed it to the lower front edge, and beveled the back side so you can get your fingers under the bevel for going up & down steps. It's lasted 35 years. I miss dad.