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  #21  
Old 02-07-2013, 10:53 AM
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Yep. Sounds like a compatablility problem between the Duratex and the white primer.
  #22  
Old 02-07-2013, 11:14 AM
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I have an svt 810 that i should do in this stuff....
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  #23  
Old 02-07-2013, 11:48 AM
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I didn't do anything. I bought the cab this way from Acme.
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  #24  
Old 02-07-2013, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToneMonkey View Post
I didn't do anything. I bought the cab this way from Acme.
If I were you, I'd contact Acme. Something definitely went wrong with the prep or application.

I have no experience with Duratex but out of all the people who have it on thier cabs, yours is the first problem I've heard.
  #25  
Old 02-07-2013, 12:16 PM
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What is the difference between LineX and Duratex?
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  #26  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:21 AM
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LineX is a sprayed polyurea (i think) that sets basically instantly. Much thicker, much heavier than duratex. IIRC on a typical 15/6 it will add about 3lbs to the cabinet. It is bulletproof, and is designed as truck be liner.

Duratex is an elastomeric polymer designed specifically for audio cabinets, it is most definitely not truck bed liner. Applied correctly, it's damn near bulletproof. It's all about the prep, but that's true of any painting project. If you do happen to damage it, touch up is a piece of cake with a chip brush.

The deep tint can be tinted to any deep base color from a paint chip. It won't be a dead match to the chip, but pretty close. I find that the deep tint base is thinner than the white or black, requires more product and more attention to detail when applying. But then I'm damn picky about my finishes.
  #27  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderic View Post
In all seriousness, The biggest issue I have dealt with using Duretex, is cabinet preparation. Often pulling off the old vinyl will also pull up splinters of the plywood. You will need to sand the cabinet smooth.
iTunes videos of Duratex how toos, reccomend filling the voids with sparkling or drywall compound. Although this will give great initial results, the spots using the drywall will chip rather easily, leaving a white spot on the cabinet. I would reccomend using Bondo, available at any auto supply house.
+1 re-did a svt cl case with bondo and duratex. Worked much better then drywall stuff. I worked in a wood shop and we did repairs with bon do all the time.
  #28  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:12 AM
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Excellent product! Inexpensive, versatile, easy to apply and easy to clean up.

I discovered this stuff a few years back and proceeded to do all my cabinets. I didn't bother with any prep.
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  #29  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:16 AM
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It works.

+1000!

I got an Ampeg 610HLF for CHEAP partly due to cosmetic issues. The thing worked perfectly but looked BAD - tolex peeling, etc. I stripped the tolex, took off all the hardware, filled it the few dings with spackle, sanded carefully, and put on by roller two coats of this stuff. I thought about getting new metal bits (what trim works best for metal? ); I still might if I ever sell it. The finish looks and wears beautifully.

One caveat is that you should be careful when you mix it. You can get different textures, so read/follow the directions! If you go too straight, the finish is QUITE rough and abrasive on hands, gear, vehicle interiors and so on. Mine is not too rough, but even so I got a padded cover to use when transporting it.
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  #30  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffbrown View Post
If you go too straight, the finish is QUITE rough and abrasive on hands, gear, vehicle interiors and so on.
Yup. I did one on a hot day and rolled it a little too much. You can now grate cheese on it.
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  #31  
Old 02-08-2013, 07:38 AM
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My only issue with Duratex is its compatibility with other painted surfaces- like when my cabinets come in contact with doors, door frames, walls, etc.

Perhaps the real problem is my house isn't finished in Duratex too.
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  #32  
Old 02-13-2013, 12:26 AM
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Duratex'd Ampeg Cab and Head

Less than a year ago i bought an Ampeg 8x10 Classic Cab and a Ampeg SVT classic head from a buddy of mine. The tolex was shredded and damaged so I sanded the old tolex nd glue off and started looking for my options of replacement. I was searching the internet when I came across Duratex. I didn't want just plain old black or white. I called Duratex to see if they could tint the Duratex for me and they told me they couldn't and they suggested that I don't do it myself. I did research and read somewhere that you can tint the white BUT if adding more than 6 ounces of tint then it compromise the product. So I bought the white Duratex and went to Sherwin Williams paint store where the refuse to tint it for me but gave me the tint (for free) to do it myself. I added the tint and mixed about 13 ounces of dark dark purple into the white Duratex to see if it would go purple. I was left with pink Duratex. So I went back to Sherwin Willimas the next day and got dark dark dark blue to add to the pink Duratex. I got the purple. I bought a regular 6 inch skinny roller from Lowe's and rolled my head and cab to see if by adding as much tint as i did, would compromise the product. IT DID NOT. Overall I added close to 16 ounces of tint. It dried fine and looks great. The only reason I am on this site right now is because i know somewhere out there, there is someone who is wondering if they can tint their white Duratex. I am not saying that you SHOULD do this, I'm just telling you that it worked for me. ALso this is just a side not, I am poder coating all my chrome hardware, flat black and putting LED's on the Ampeg logo on both the head and the cab. More pictures to come.
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Last edited by LoganTGH : 02-13-2013 at 12:37 AM.
  #33  
Old 02-13-2013, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderic View Post
I roll on my durex.
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  #34  
Old 02-13-2013, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoganTGH View Post
The only reason I am on this site right now is because i know somewhere out there, there is someone who is wondering if they can tint their white Duratex. I am not saying that you SHOULD do this, I'm just telling you that it worked for me.
BNA has been using colored Duratex on their custom cabs for quite a while without problems.
  #35  
Old 02-14-2013, 06:45 AM
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BNA gets deep tint base. Has virtually no tint in the bucket, almost clear. You can tint it from SW color chips. It will be close. Mo' money than black. I occasionally carry it, but mostly you have to get it from AcryTech.

It requires more product to cover the cab. Does not hide like white or black. On the disco gold cab I used probably twice as much as I normally do for black cab. 1 coat coverage and 1 coat hiding are not the same thing.
  #36  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelandcrooks View Post
On the disco gold cab...
For those wondering what the "disco gold cab" is:
  #37  
Old 02-14-2013, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelandcrooks View Post
LineX is a sprayed polyurea (i think) that sets basically instantly. Much thicker, much heavier than duratex. IIRC on a typical 15/6 it will add about 3lbs to the cabinet. It is bulletproof, and is designed as truck be liner.
So the LineX product is sprayed on and adds about 3 pounds, from what I've read the Duratex product is brushed or rolled on - any idea of the added weight from that? My instinct is to assume that brushing/rolling uses more "product" that spraying.
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  #38  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:30 PM
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Linex is about an inch thick. At most duratex will add a pound, pound and half.
  #39  
Old 02-14-2013, 10:36 PM
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WHITE

I've been thinking the WHITE looks good---but does it get real dirty and can you clean it? Could you just roll some white latex over it if you couldn't clean it up?????
  #40  
Old 02-14-2013, 10:46 PM
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Yo that teal cab <3
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