If you overpower the cab, it's your fault, as they all do have a volume knob
The thing you have to do this time, however, is ignore the cab hype and use your ears...I have never played a 410 in my life that could do much better than 400-500w real world power handling. Ampeg rates the SVT 410hlf as being able to handle 500w. That's about it, and then you start getting the speakers to fart out and possibly blow. A lot of companies use the wattage that causes the speakers to blow as their power handling rating, and many people such as yourself don't realize that it's a very top figure that will cause blowing the second it's exceeded. Ampeg's one of the few that doesn't, as their Classic cabs are rated pretty honestly for real world usage, and 500w is about tops before fartout sets in.
Another thing many cab-blowers don't realize is that beyond an amp's RMS wattage rating, all tube amps and traditionally built SS amps have at least TWICE the wattage available to them for peaks. So if the 1001-RB is rated at 700w RMS, it's capable of delivering 1400w peak power once you crank it past its clean volume.
Now how do you keep from blowing speakers in a situation like that? Simple. You forget about the numbers, and you use your ears and your common sense. If you turn up an amp to the point where it sounds like the cab might explode, it most definitely will explode, and the numbers mean diddly-squat. You learned that lesson the hard way.
It's very possible to use a 1001-RB with a 410hlf, but you have to have discipline. But if cranking the amp so hard that it distorts is part of your plans, then you need to get a smaller amp or rethink how you will get distortion, as the 410hlf will not take a 1001-RB cranked that hard.