Hard time finding 10" 16 ohm speakers! Recommendations?

[CPplaysBASS]

I have always used 2X10 and 1X15 8 ohm cabs.

Unfortunately the speakers in my current 2X10 cabinet are crapping out ... is a Yorkville XC210 with two 10" 150 watt 16 ohm speakers.

I thought 2X10 8 ohm cabinets were quite common, but neither Eminence or Celestion have 10" 16 ohm bass speakers listed on their sites ... all 8 ohm amd some 4 ohm.

Can anyone recommend any 10" 16 ohm speakers? In a previous Dr. Bass 210 cab I owned, there were Eminence Delta10B that I liked even though I don't think they were marketed as "bass" speakers specifically. Either way, there must be other alternatives?

Related question ... are 8ohm cabinets out of vogue for some reason?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations of direction pointing!

Cheers,
CP

[CPplaysBASS]

Sorry ... another related question ... can two 10" speakers rated at 150W each generally be switched out for two rated at 200W each??

My specific cab dimensions are ...
Dimensions (DWH, inches) 15 x 23 x 15.5
Dimensions (DWH, cm) 39 x 58 x 40

Cheers,
CP

[username1]

You could also use two 4 ohm speakers wired in series.

[WillieDikker]

Just found this tonight myself thanks to the forum here...

http://www.fliptops.net/catalog/prod...roducts_id=742

[Calaverasgrande]

when you wire speakers in series the watt rating is equivalent to the watt rating of one speaker. When in parallel you get power handling of the speakers added together.
So 200 watts in series, 400 watts in parallel.
I have had the same problem finding 16 ohm NON guitar 12" drivers.
I inquired with Eminence and a few others. They all said they only make those OEM for the individual companies like GK, Fender, SWR etc.

[M0ses]

I believe you can special order them from Eminence.

EDIT: nevermind just read the above post. I feel stupid...

[Jaco who?]

Originally Posted by Calaverasgrande

when you wire speakers in series the watt rating is equivalent to the watt rating of one speaker. When in parallel you get power handling of the speakers added together.
So 200 watts in series, 400 watts in parallel.

This is not true, power is power series or parallel, otherwise there wouldn't be all those "1000 watt" 4x10 series parallel wired cabs out there, and it really doesn't matter anyway. It's a thermal rating for voice coils, nothing more.

I'd call Traynor customer support and see what they recommend.

[Calaverasgrande]

uh, when you have two loads wired in parallel half the current goes down one, half down the other. When you wire them in series, all of the current must go through one to get to the other.

I find it is also better to wire in parallel so that in the rare case that you blow a speaker, you can limp to the end of the song. If in series when you blow one driver (out of two) you could end up with neither speaker still producing sound!

Think of it like water in a pipe.

[CPplaysBASS]

Thanks everyone ... I sort of get it, but obviously not as easy as when I last changed speakers in another cab I had (simple connectors, no need to know whether or not it was series or parallel ... same wattage, just different impedance, successfully done in 10 minutes or less by someone - me - who is typically useless at fixing things).

I figured it would simple this time too, but I'm over my head here. Since the original speakers are rated at 150W each, replacing them with 350W Eminence Delta 10Bs (seemingly the only 16ohm bass speaker for sale publically) doesn't strike me as something I should do ... the whole recommended cubic feet of the cab and how that relates to the wattage rating is currently beyond my grasp at the moment as well.

I have since discovered that the Yorkville speakers are from Eminence, so through the dealer I shall go (the main music store / dealer across Canada - Long & McQuade - happens to also own Yorkville)!

Still find it odd though the most brands of amps have 2X10 8 ohm cabinets , and Eminence makes the speakers rated at 150W-200W for most of them ... but they're not available to the public.

Again, much thanks for the input! My reading tonight elsewhere is what Calaverasgrande describes ... I read the part about "all or nothing" in terms of sound if one speaker goes in series and that was enough to convince me to get the proper 16 ohm speakers via the dealer, and leave the wiring in parallel ... even though I'll have to pay extra to have their "technician" do it.

[rpatter]

The Eminence 10B is still available:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-413

Ralf

Originally Posted by CPplaysBASS

I have always used 2X10 and 1X15 8 ohm cabs.

Unfortunately the speakers in my current 2X10 cabinet are crapping out ... is a Yorkville XC210 with two 10" 150 watt 16 ohm speakers.

I thought 2X10 8 ohm cabinets were quite common, but neither Eminence or Celestion have 10" 16 ohm bass speakers listed on their sites ... all 8 ohm amd some 4 ohm.

Can anyone recommend any 10" 16 ohm speakers? In a previous Dr. Bass 210 cab I owned, there were Eminence Delta10B that I liked even though I don't think they were marketed as "bass" speakers specifically. Either way, there must be other alternatives?

Related question ... are 8ohm cabinets out of vogue for some reason?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations of direction pointing!

Cheers,
CP

[Petebass]

Originally Posted by Calaverasgrande

uh, when you have two loads wired in parallel half the current goes down one, half down the other. When you wire them in series, all of the current must go through one to get to the other.

I find it is also better to wire in parallel so that in the rare case that you blow a speaker, you can limp to the end of the song. If in series when you blow one driver (out of two) you could end up with neither speaker still producing sound!

Think of it like water in a pipe.

I agree with your second paragraph, to a degree. In most of today's multiple driver cabs the internal volume is shared. So "limping" through the gig is about the best you can ask for without blowing the remaining good drivers because they suddenly are operating in a cabinet that's twice the size of what they were intended, changing their excursion characteristics considerably. They'll move further, often too far. If your cab has a separate internal chamber for each speaker, you'll fare much better, but cabs like that aren't common any more.

However in series mode, both speakers still receive equal power as long as they have the same individual impedance. So two 200w speakers wired in series is still 400w total. That's provided they're both working. With series wiring either both work or neither works. But that's perhaps not such a bad thing considering how often people blow a good speaker trying to limp home as described ablove. Replacing/repairing one speaker is cheaper than two.

[PhatBasstard]

Originally Posted by Calaverasgrande

uh, when you have two loads wired in parallel half the current goes down one, half down the other. When you wire them in series, all of the current must go through one to get to the other.

I find it is also better to wire in parallel so that in the rare case that you blow a speaker, you can limp to the end of the song. If in series when you blow one driver (out of two) you could end up with neither speaker still producing sound!

Think of it like water in a pipe.

Not this.

Originally Posted by Petebass

I agree with your second paragraph, to a degree. In most of today's multiple driver cabs the internal volume is shared. So "limping" through the gig is about the best you can ask for without blowing the remaining good drivers because they suddenly are operating in a cabinet that's twice the size of what they were intended, changing their excursion characteristics considerably. They'll move further, often too far. If your cab has a separate internal chamber for each speaker, you'll fare much better, but cabs like that aren't common any more.

However in series mode, both speakers still receive equal power as long as they have the same individual impedance. So two 200w speakers wired in series is still 400w total. That's provided they're both working. With series wiring either both work or neither works. But that's perhaps not such a bad thing considering how often people blow a good speaker trying to limp home as described ablove. Replacing/repairing one speaker is cheaper than two.

This.

BTW, you CAN order 16 ohm 12" drivers from Eminence.
I just received 2 Delta12B (400wRMS/800wPeak) drivers from them.....and now I don't need them. PM me if interested.

[rpsands]

You'd probably have an easier time with 4 ohm drivers. Wire two in series, bam, 8 ohms

[PhatBasstard]

Originally Posted by rpsands

You'd probably have an easier time with 4 ohm drivers. Wire two in series, bam, 8 ohms

True, but some have stated they like the tone of parallel wiring better (I don't hear a difference myself), so that was my thinking when I ordered these 16 ohmers.

Too bad I didn't go the 4 ohm route as I could have still used them in my new project.

[rpsands]

I am pretty sure that the idea of any tone difference between parallel/series is a shenanigan and has more to do with the sacrifices made to achieve different driver ohmage.

If you look at charts and such, almost every driver that is 4 ohm or 16 ohm version of an 8 ohm driver makes some sacrifices to get there.

I welcome correction by the super experts but pretty sure it's crap (otherwise all those guys who like parallel/series wired high end boutique 4x10s are missing out

[johnk_10]

Originally Posted by Calaverasgrande

when you wire speakers in series the watt rating is equivalent to the watt rating of one speaker.

this is absolutely wrong. for example, a marshall 4x12 with 16 ohm greenbacks (25 watt speakers) is rated at 100 watts. series, parallel, and series/parallel wired cabs all have a power handling capability of the SUM of the multiple driver's power handling rating.

i do agree though that if series wired cab has a speaker that blows a driver's coil to 'open', it will shut down the other speaker(s) that is wired in series with it.

[PhatBasstard]

Originally Posted by rpsands

I am pretty sure that the idea of any tone difference between parallel/series is a shenanigan and has more to do with the sacrifices made to achieve different driver ohmage.

If you look at charts and such, almost every driver that is 4 ohm or 16 ohm version of an 8 ohm driver makes some sacrifices to get there.

I welcome correction by the super experts but pretty sure it's crap (otherwise all those guys who like parallel/series wired high end boutique 4x10s are missing out

True. There are just too many cabs wired either way for one to have a significant advantage over the other. I've done it both ways and never heard any difference.

Originally Posted by Calaverasgrande

when you wire speakers in series the watt rating is equivalent to the watt rating of one speaker. When in parallel you get power handling of the speakers added together.
So 200 watts in series, 400 watts in parallel.

But then you get...uh...theories like this that says your Christmas lights will be brighter if you wire them in parallel.

[rpsands]

Originally Posted by johnk_10

i do agree though that if series wired cab has a speaker that blows a driver's coil to 'open', it will shut down the other speaker(s) that is wired in series with it.

In a guitar cab I think that's a bigger deal than in a ported bass cab. As you know I'm sure running a single driver in a ported bass cab sized for two drivers is not a good thing -- changes your power handling (thermal/excursion-limited) just by virtue of having fewer drivers, and also reduces excursion limited power by granting more space per driver.

I could be wrong but I recollect that broken woofers will also potentially act as direct radiators, drastically changing the tuning of the cab.

Either way, you should never run a bass cab with broken speakers imho

[butchblack]

US Speakers lists a couple of 10" 16Ω speakers www.usspeaker.com click on guitar and bass speakers. Using speakers of a higher power handling rating should be safe

[Mannishboy]

Check Weber Speakers. They make two 16 ohm, 10" ceramic magnet speakers, designed for bass, rated at 150 watts. They run $90-100 each.
Hope this helps (and let me know if they work)!