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09-17-2011, 04:27 PM
| | | | HELP: amp won't turn on
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If anyone can help me I'll be oh so very grateful...
I've been trying to fix the annoying rattling/buzzing in my BA-115hpt. My most recent action was to add bracing inside the amp, and while I was at it I added insulation (cut mattress foam) around the intererior. To do this I unplugged the woofer completely to give me some room to maneuver. (I had already unplugged the tweeter, and left it that way.)
When I put everything back after I was done and turned it on the red light came on for a moment and then turned off, and now it won't do anything. I thought I put the wires back on the woofer the way they were, but my guess is that I put them back on wrong and perhaps blew a fuse (I hope a fuse, and not something worse!)
Does anyone know what order the wires are supposed to go on the woofer? There are a total of six wires, two of which are for the tweeter. Those two are red and black and come from the bottom (near the dial on the back of the amp). Also coming from the bottom are a blue and a white wire. Coming from the top are another red and black wire.
Or could this be something else entirely?  | 
09-17-2011, 04:29 PM
| | | | Also, how do I change the fuse? I'm not even sure where it is. | 
09-17-2011, 04:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: North Easton, Mass. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NoisyShores If anyone can help me I'll be oh so very grateful...
I've been trying to fix the annoying rattling/buzzing in my BA-115hpt. My most recent action was to add bracing inside the amp, and while I was at it I added insulation (cut mattress foam) around the intererior. To do this I unplugged the woofer completely to give me some room to maneuver. (I had already unplugged the tweeter, and left it that way.)
When I put everything back after I was done and turned it on the red light came on for a moment and then turned off, and now it won't do anything. I thought I put the wires back on the woofer the way they were, but my guess is that I put them back on wrong and perhaps blew a fuse (I hope a fuse, and not something worse!)
Does anyone know what order the wires are supposed to go on the woofer? There are a total of six wires, two of which are for the tweeter. Those two are red and black and come from the bottom (near the dial on the back of the amp). Also coming from the bottom are a blue and a white wire. Coming from the top are another red and black wire.
Or could this be something else entirely?  | Well, your first mistake was not labeling the wires and taking pictures so you would know where everything went on re-assembly. That's water under the bridge. Did you put electrical tape around the tweeter wires that you disconnected? If the wires touched each other or anything else that could have possibly blown a fuse. There should be a main fuse accessible on the back panel. There may be other fuses mounted internally. You would have to remove the amp chassis to see if there are any other fuses. Unplug the amp before removing and replacing fuses.
If you could post some pics of the wires that you are talking about it might be helpful. The description is a little vague.
Rick B.
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09-17-2011, 05:12 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Minneapolis | | | The way your speakers were wired wouldn't change anything I thought... ? At least for a single speaker situation, there wouldn't be phase issues.
Shorting something might have frozen the amp, but a speaker will let power flow in either direction.
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09-17-2011, 05:13 PM
| | | | Yes, that would have been wiser. I think I've got the cables figured out now, though... I did have them wrong, so now I just have to figure out where the blown fuse is. | 
09-17-2011, 05:22 PM
| | | | found the fuse! hopefully that's all it was... I'll report back when I know. Thanks for your help. | 
09-17-2011, 06:31 PM
| | | | replaced the fuse, plugged it in, and it immediately blew out again. hmmmm... | 
09-17-2011, 07:04 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lake Havasu City, Az USA | | You probably shorted the output devices when you miss-wired the speaker, tech and money time. Sorry  Can't un-cook a steak, put a fork in it.
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09-17-2011, 08:14 PM
| | | | I realized the blue and white wires just take the signal down to the tweeter volume knob, so I took them off, and just have red on +, black on -, and again blown fuse.
If I have indeed "shorted the output devices," any idea how much that might cost to have repaired? | 
09-17-2011, 09:17 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lake Havasu City, Az USA | | | Some are inexpensive modules, some matched bipole or MOSFET. Sorry don't have the schematic to be of more help.
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Just call me B-String 2
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09-17-2011, 10:20 PM
| | | | alright, guess I'll have to find a repairman. Bummer. Thanks for your help. | 
09-17-2011, 10:54 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Lake Havasu City, Az USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NoisyShores alright, guess I'll have to find a repairman. Bummer. Thanks for your help. | Sorry not the kind of help you would like to have?  But your welcome. 
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09-17-2011, 10:55 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | The output stage for the 115hpt is Mosfet 1RFP-9140R and a IRFP-140R. You would have to remove the bad ones and replace with new ones. Just have to be careful removing since the traces are thin on newer amps and the heat can lift the thin traces.
Otherwise the only thing that might have happened is the crossover was damaged or shorted from having the tweeter removed. so a crossover that has failed as a short might be blowing the fuse. Bypass the crossover and see if it still blows fuses.
Also depending on how the crossover is designed sometimes just unplugging the tweeter can make the amplifier see a no load situation at some frequency's. not good to do
its better to bypass the crossover completely, sounds like you might have done that already. Check again and make sure.Here is a link to the crossover schematic and here is a link to the amp schematic
otherwise as always if you not completely confident or capable, hire a tech. your looking at parts, labor, and diagnostic time. Most charge by the hour. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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