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01-09-2011, 09:59 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles | | | 'Jumping' speaker
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I noticed when playing my 210 speaker that one speaker appears to be working much harder than the other. One pretty much lacks movement and the other, appears to be using all of it's suspension. Both are the same age oem installed parts. There are no unmusical noises or artifacts. Is this the precursor to "something"?
Not related...can speaker impedance be changed when performing a recone (ie: 16ohms to 8ohms).
Thanks in advance. | 
01-09-2011, 10:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Canada | | They could be wired improperly. This happened to me with an Epifani 410; only 2 speakers actually worked. There is a test you can do with a 9 volt battery. If you do a search you may find something on the test.
Good luck.
Oh, and I could be completely wrong about this being the problem. 
__________________ | Bergantino | Markbass | Lull | | 
01-09-2011, 10:51 AM
|  | Registered User Maker of HPF-Pre upright bass preamp | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Madison WI | | | One driver is probably blown and is acting as a passive radiator, i.e., reacting to the pressure in the cab driven by the non-blown driver. | 
01-09-2011, 01:14 PM
| | Registered User Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Hampshire | | Quote:
Originally Posted by fdeck One driver is probably blown and is acting as a passive radiator, i.e., reacting to the pressure in the cab driven by the non-blown driver. | +1. If that's the case the other will soon blow as well, as the cab tuning would be AFU. Quote: |
Not related...can speaker impedance be changed when performing a recone (ie: 16ohms to 8ohms).
| It can if there's a voice coil available with the desired impedance. | 
01-09-2011, 01:30 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | | I experienced the same thing with a 2x12 cabinet in which the internal speaker wires were attached with crimp fittings; one of the connectors worked its way loose until only one speaker was doing all of the work. I was able to diagnose and correct the problem before any damage was done.
Thankfully, you've noticed the situation, which gives you a chance to take corrective action. | 
01-09-2011, 02:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles | | | Thanks guys. Does anybody know the "9 volt Test" details? | 
01-09-2011, 02:45 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | | When you touch the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the speaker, and negative to negative, the cone should move outward; if doing so makes the cone move inward, the polarity is reversed; if nothing happens, it's time to contact a qualified tech. | 
01-09-2011, 02:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Alameda, California | | | You plug a 1/4-inch speaker cable into the cabinet and apply the 9V battery to the opposite end--touch the positive terminal to the tip of the plug and the negative terminal to the sleeve, and the speakers should make a harmless "pop" sound and move outwards toward the grill. | 
01-09-2011, 03:01 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Toronto Ontario Canada | | | If you notice one cone move out and the other move in you either have one of the drivers with a crossed polarity or, as opined earlier, one is open circuit and doing the passive radiator thing.
__________________
Paul
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01-10-2011, 08:37 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Los Angeles | | | Upon further review...left speaker buzzzzzzzz, right speaker magnet shifted, voice coil frozen. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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