MARKBASS Question

Bassandgolf · #1 02-02-2013, 07:52 AM

I am thinking of getting a Markbass Standard 104HF 410 due to my brief past experience playing another Markbass product (210 tiltback combo).

I keep hearing reference to that "MarkBass" sound. Anyone know what this is and can describe it for me?

Additionally, I need a 410 and I'm coming from Epifani UL2 cabs and not getting a Epi 410 due to cost. How will the MarkBass compare and will my Epi 400watt head be enough to run the MB 410?

Got2SadowskyNYC · #2 02-02-2013, 07:55 AM

In one word. Transparent.

They add very little coloration to the sound of your bass.

Bassandgolf · #3 02-02-2013, 07:57 AM

Is that bad? does that mean it will have trouble cutting through? Thx for your help on this.

**speak2planets** · #4 02-02-2013, 08:02 AM

I run a MarkBass 2x10 and a 1x15 off of a GB head and personally love the sound. Depending on what kind of music I'm playing I can usually dial in any tone I need. I dig their cabs although some people don't. But you're gonna get that with every piece of equipment ever made

anton72 · #5 02-02-2013, 08:07 AM

I have their 2x10 Traveller cab and Little Mark250 head, happy with both. No coloration, a bit "sterile" tone but my bass (Spector NS-2) has very aggressive growling tone that's why I like how Markbass leverages it no to sound that aggressive.

Got2SadowskyNYC · #6 02-02-2013, 08:07 AM

No. I prefer it. My Bag End is the most transparent amp on the market. I add the color how I want to. I don't need an amp to do that for me.

Cutting through has to do with EQ. An Ampeg adds tones of color, but I can bury it with the EQ.

I prefer a flat as possible EQ. On a 4x10 I boost the low freqs. up a bit to make the e and b strings have more omf.

Got2SadowskyNYC · #7 02-02-2013, 08:17 AM

One other thing.

Get the 4ohm model. You'll get the full 400wats out of the head. The down side is you will NOT be able to use another cab while useing the MB.

Also they have 2 models of a 4x10. The front ported will make it sound a bit deeper because the ports are facing you. The down side is it's a bit taller and about 10 lbs heavier.

Bass_Pounder · #8 02-02-2013, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got2SadowskyNYC

Get the 4ohm model. You'll get the full 400wats out of the head. The down side is you will NOT be able to use another cab while useing the MB.

Considering that the volume difference between a 8 ohm and a 4 ohm version of the same cab is almost undetectable, why would you recommend getting a 4 ohm version when all that will accomplish is preventing the OP from ever expanding his rig in the future ?

Got2SadowskyNYC · #9 02-02-2013, 08:32 AM

Head room. Getting the head to run a peak efficiency.

And, from the sound of it, that's not his ultimate goal.

When I was running a stack, Rabe era SWR Gollaith 3 and Big Ben, I used both cabs maybe 10 times of the 15 years I had them. I used the 4x10 exclusively. Had a ATA case for it. The Big Ben had the SWR slip cover.

When I was doing shows large enough to warrant both they had plenty of FOH reinforcement and monitors so there was no reason to tote the extra gear. Once you step from directly in it's path you couldn't hear it anyway.

4x10 is plenty for most things and when it's not it seems there is this big wall of sound that someone else is loading and unloading. But it's your back.

For the record: At the time I ran a SM900 for a while and then a Crown K1 bridged to 1100 watts. Never turn either one up all the way.

Got2SadowskyNYC · #10 02-02-2013, 08:37 AM

On second thought, he could get the 2x10 MB and have the best of both worlds by running both the UL2 and MB. It'll save him money and he'd have a "large" and a "small rig".

But I need to know the ohm rating of the UL.

I wish I would have done this my self.

4OnTheFloor · #11 02-02-2013, 08:41 AM

MarkBass has a very tight low end, a sound some people describe as "sterile". I think when an amp sounds sterile, it will sound very clear with a band. Tight, focused, crisp are words I would use to describe the sound. Versatile, ergonomic, impressive are words I would also use to describe the package.

**RaginRog** · #12 02-02-2013, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got2SadowskyNYC

In one word. Transparent.

They add very little coloration to the sound of your bass.

Exactly what he mentioned. With the 104hr and LM III that I run, my sound can get a little boomy if I add bass eq. I actually roll the bass eq to about 10-11 o'clock and use the low mids at about 2 o'clock. This gives my passive Jazz with Ant II pups a nice punch while still allowing for the growl when digging in.

Got2SadowskyNYC · #13 02-02-2013, 08:52 AM

4onthe: You made a good point about "sterile". It's about how it sets in the mix. I hadn't thought about it that way.

I was talking to a drummer friend of mine once. He was doing a session with Lee Sklar. They were getting tones and my friend said Lee's was AWEFUL alone. It was this nasty beat up bass with rusty strings. No kiding, rusty string. Dull and dead.

When they heard playback of the first take he said something happened and it sound great, but by itself it sounded terrible. It set in the mix properly.

Doner Designs · #14 02-02-2013, 09:08 AM

I asked a similar question recently after comparing my three rigs. Hard to know without a reference standard what is perfectly "flat". Is my GK 112 combo scooped or is my Markbass 112 combo mid boosted? I thought it was a little of both, but really don't know for sure

In the end, when playing my GK which tends to sound scoopy I boost the mids a smidgen. With my MB rig I tend to run both the VLE and VPF between 10 and 12 o'clock. This quiets the hissy tweeter and tames the mids. The standard eq controls I leave flat unless needed to adjust for room acoustics.

My question in theory is still not answered, but it was a real eye opener to run multiple amps side-by-side in my home. The third was an Acoustic B100 which, interestingly, was very mid present like the MB in spite of the 15" speaker and absence of a tweeter.

Anyhoo, one thing I will say on the MB - you can dial in any tone you want very easily and I'm a big fan. They are also built like tanks which helps account for the high-ish cost.

As for whether flat on the control panel equals flat on a scope, its an interesting question but should not influence purchase decisions unless you object to turning knobs or find it impossible to dial in the tone you are seeking.

I think Ernie Ball uses them to test Stingrays. If that's true its a pretty strong endorsement in my estimation. It would also tend to support the notion that they are strong on mids which would allow the sting of the ray to shine through when you want it to. But even with a Stingray and MB rig, its still possible to dial in a vintage tone with a little help from flatwound strings and a generous dose of VLE & VPF (Tech 21 VT helps too).

Got2SadowskyNYC · #15 02-02-2013, 09:17 AM

According to what I've been told at NAMM, flat means flat on the EQ assuming both filters are turned full left.

GKs do mid scoop everything. Very annoying if you DON'T want it to. It's a cab and amp design thing.

As far as the hiss, that's one of the things that sold me on the Bag End CoAxial hi driver. It's incredibly smooth so they don't even need a tweeter pad. No brittle sound. No accented hiss. Sometimes I'll wonder if it even still works and turn my treb knob up just to make sure.

4OnTheFloor · #16 02-02-2013, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got2SadowskyNYC

GKs do mid scoop everything.

This is EXACTLY why my rig is a MB and no longer GK. I'll take GK relieability though

Got2SadowskyNYC · #17 02-02-2013, 10:22 AM

Notice I don't use either. I'm Bag End all the way.

I have friends that endorse GK and MB. I think they're both crazy, but if I walk into a back line situation and there is MB I'm happy.

**RaginRog** · #18 02-03-2013, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doner Designs

But even with a Stingray and MB rig, its still possible to dial in a vintage tone with a little help from flatwound strings and a generous dose of VLE & VPF (Tech 21 VT helps too).

I certainly can with mine. I played an entire classic rock gig tonight with my 104HR, LM III, Classic Stingray with TI flats. The g string was a little lighter in volume, but otherwise sounded great. I dont even use the filters. I just add some low mids on the amp and it's good to go.