Peavey 215D power limits?

[honeyboy]

Okay, I read every posting in the archives about the 215D BW
cabinet. It should be 4 ohms with 2 8 ohm Black Widow speakers wired in parallel. My question is, if all this is true for my 215, would using a Carvin B1500 head be too much for that cabinet? I have the deeper 18 inch version cabinet, incidently with aluminum coned speakers. How much volume and power can these speakers handle without blowing? Is there an optimal amount of power these were designed for?

[billfitzmaurice]

There's no such thing as a head that's too much for a cab. If the speakers distort you turn down, simple as that. How loud it will go before that happens and whether that's loud enough for what you're doing you can only know by trying it.

[will33]

You can use any amp you want, just listen to the cab, if it starts sounding distorted/farty, it's time to turn down.

What the cab can really handle depends on the speakers. The 1502DT model although advertised as bass speakers have a pretty short xmax of 2.8mm. They're high in sensitivity, meaning they don't need a lot power to get loud, but they'll fart out sooner than the 1505DT model, which has xmax of 4.8-5mm.

[honeyboy]

Thanks for the quick replies, gentlemen. I guess I was under the assumption that the wattage output from the amp had to be close to the power capabilities of the speaker- for example, a speaker rated at 400 watts rms should be used with an amp of 350 watts or so.
Will33, in the event that someday I need to replace the speakers, is the 1505 DT due to its longer excursion a better choice for this cabinet? Also, would there be a problem if just one of the two were replaced with a 1505 DT?

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by honeyboy

Thanks for the quick replies, gentlemen. I guess I was under the assumption that the wattage output from the amp had to be close to the power capabilities of the speaker- for example, a speaker rated at 400 watts rms should be used with an amp of 350 watts or so.

No. There is no minimum or maximum. And the speaker thermal rating has no relationship with how much power it can actually use or how loud a cab will go before farting out. That information should be available from every manufacturer, but AFAIK only one, Barefaced Bass, provides it.

in the event that someday I need to replace the speakers, is the 1505 DT due to its longer excursion a better choice for this cabinet?

Doubling of excursion quadruples effective power handling.

would there be a problem if just one of the two were replaced with a 1505 DT?

There would be no point in replacing one.

[honeyboy]

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

...Doubling of excursion quadruples effective power handling.There would be no point in replacing one.

What I meant was, if only one of the original speakers was to fail, would there be any kind of problem by putting in the one with the longer excursion? Or is it better to match the original?

[will33]

The 1505's will work fine in that cab too. Some of the old Peavey magnet structures were interchangeable with different replacement baskets, some weren't. If yours is, you could get a 1505 replacement basket, put your magnet on it and essentially "upgrade" for about half price. There were different magnet structures from different time periods. Somewhere in here is a post from TB'er Bobbybld explaining which ones interchange and which ones don't. If it turns out you can go that route, be sure you're getting a DT basket, not the KADT. The KA was a PA midbass driver with worse xmax than the 1502. For now, I'd just play it and see what, if anything, you'd care to change. The 1505 will change the tone too, not just the power handling. They have fuller lows but cleaner midrange, not the aggressive grindy hard rock sound of the 1502 getting pushed past it's limits.

[will33]

Originally Posted by honeyboy

What I meant was, if only one of the original speakers was to fail, would there be any kind of problem by putting in the one with the longer excursion? Or is it better to match the original?

I don't think those cabs weren't divided in half internally so replace both or none. You don't want different speakers interfering with each other in the same box.

[honeyboy]

Originally Posted by will33

The 1505's will work fine in that cab too. Some of the old Peavey magnet structures were interchangeable with different replacement baskets, some weren't. If yours is, you could get a 1505 replacement basket, put your magnet on it and essentially "upgrade" for about half price. There were different magnet structures from different time periods. Somewhere in here is a post from TB'er Bobbybld explaining which ones interchange and which ones don't. If it turns out you can go that route, be sure you're getting a DT basket, not the KADT. The KA was a PA midbass driver with worse xmax than the 1502. For now, I'd just play it and see what, if anything, you'd care to change. The 1505 will change the tone too, not just the power handling. They have fuller lows but cleaner midrange, not the aggressive grindy hard rock sound of the 1502 getting pushed past it's limits.

Good info, thanks. I'll look for the posting by Bobbybld.

Okay- really basic question. How do I get to the speakers? Do the metal strips along the edges have to come off, and how?? I'd like to get the exact info off of the speakers.

[honeyboy]

Thanks. I guess I'll replace both if and when the time comes. I found that info you mentioned here:Peavey Black Widow basket swap question

[will33]

Originally Posted by honeyboy

Good info, thanks. I'll look for the posting by Bobbybld.

Okay- really basic question. How do I get to the speakers? Do the metal strips along the edges have to come off, and how?? I'd like to get the exact info off of the speakers.

The model # will be on a tag on the side of the magnet or somewhere on the back of the speaker. Might be able to see it by taking out a handle and shining a light in there. If not, lay the cab on it's back, remove the 8 screws around the speakers frame and lift the whole speaker out. There's wires attached to it obviously, make sure they get put back on the right way. The Widow's I've seen with spring loaded terminals were marked red=positive, black=negative, just like a battery.

[craig.p]

Originally Posted by honeyboy

How do I get to the speakers? Do the metal strips along the edges have to come off, and how?? I'd like to get the exact info off of the speakers.

The grille panel is held in place with snaps. You have to sneak a bent coat hanger (or similar) into each corner, coax it under the wood grille frame, and give a mighty tug. You'll hear and feel a POP as each snap releases. It's sort of on the same idea as velcro, except much more secure.

[honeyboy]

Originally Posted by craig.p

The grille panel is held in place with snaps. You have to sneak a bent coat hanger (or similar) into each corner, coax it under the wood grille frame, and give a mighty tug. You'll hear and feel a POP as each snap releases. It's sort of on the same idea as velcro, except much more secure.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. What's the worse that can happen, right?

[mofeezy]

On my 215D you have to remove the corner covers because they overlap the grill. Once you take those off, pick a corner of the grill (under the metal strips) and pry it up. It's held in place by velcro.

[honeyboy]

Originally Posted by mofeezy

On my 215D you have to remove the corner covers because they overlap the grill. Once you take those off, pick a corner of the grill (under the metal strips) and pry it up. It's held in place by velcro.

Thanks. That makes alot of sense. I'm assuming you mean all four corner covers.

[mofeezy]

On mine I had to remove all 4. But I know someone who only had to take 2 off. He may have had non-original corners.