porting an ampeg 8x10

[xcrackpipex]

what do you guys think about porting the upper half of an ampeg 8x10?
good idea? bad idea?

[Mr. Foxen]

You'd need to change speakers to ones that were suitable for ported cabs too. Similar topic recently, basically, not worth it.

Edit: 10" subwoofers in an Ampeg 8x10 cab?

[jimmyjames77]

I'd say don't do it. The "thing" about ampeg 810s is that they aren't ported. That's part of what makes it special. I'd get something else and part ways with the ampeg if I needed a port. It will decrease the value AND you have no idea what it'd sound like.

[huben94]

Hey,

Take a listen to Ampeg 4x10 HLF, it's ported.

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by huben94

Hey,

Take a listen to Ampeg 4x10 HLF, it's ported.

AFAIK it uses a different driver.

[dubcut]

I think ported enclosures < Sealed for a few reasons, just my 2 cents. That said, YOU need to decide what to think about it...SO....

Find the cubic inches(volume) internal on your cab. Go to like car audio.com or realmofexcursion.com or diyaudio.com and follow the links you will find to a ported enclosure designer. Even AJDesigner works. Enter your cubic volume, and play with port diameters and lengths until you find for yourself if it is worth it.

Remember to detract the volume of your port from the Cubic inches/ft of the enclosure!!

Also, You are better off with a few smaller ports than one large one. Just protects a little better when notes under resonance frequency/ tuning happen.

Originally Posted by xcrackpipex

what do you guys think about porting the upper half of an ampeg 8x10?
good idea? bad idea?

[HMZ]

Why mess with a classic....There are plenty of other cabs that are ported.

[JimmyM]

if you have to ask, then you don't know enough about porting or how the 810e is built to pull it off.

[73jbass]

You would have to port it from the back. Not a lot of room for ports on the front panel. Leave it alone and get a ported cab.

[Jerrold Tiers]

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

AFAIK it uses a different driver.

That would be correct.... The 810 driver is not well suited to porting.... which is not surprising, since it is made for a sealed cab.

[dubcut]

After looking it over a tad and going by some (differing) online specs, here is a generalized solution.

1- The ports will weaken the baffle. So, you will have to brace the baffle. Or double it. Or side/rear port.

2- You need to lose somewere between 1-to 1-1/2 cubic ft internal volume for the enclosure to allow proper speaker function throughout the power range. This is PER EACH 4x SECTION.

3- The best way would be rear-firing the ports. If you mic the cab, no port noise etc will happen. Easier to isolate for recording as well.

I would say gut the cab, brace it internally with thick wood, use length x width x height inch measurements on bracing, and make 1800 or so cubic inches of bracing to further sturdy the cab. Then the port displacement will get you close to the cubic foot requirements of the ported spec. Use four 2 inch pvc ports or six 1-1/4 pc ports and let them stick out th back a little past flush, and use a connector and extra 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 inch cuts to tunethe enclosure. after tuning, make noteof TOTAL length, and use the same total length ofpipe, just internal.

You can use elbows for length, remember length is through the center, and the elbow restricts flow a tad, so two 45's are better than one 90.

Route the port holes outof the cab, facing out to smooth turbulence, or set them flush ad build up a smooth ring around each hole with a flange or epoxy/ bondo, a wood custom flange.

All in all, you stand to gain 2.5-4 db dependant upon tuning etc. The sound quality will change as well.

[giacomini]

I might be wrong, but aren't the ampeg 8x10 sealed in four rows of two speakers? That would take 4 (or eight) precisely calculated ports to work...

Anyway I wouldn't do it. Like some have said before, if your're not satisfied with a piece of gear that others might like, don't put it apart, sell it and get something you might like better...