Pt. 8: fEarful™ 12/6 & 15/6 enclosure designs - FREE! - Page 11

edwinhurwitz · #**201** 12-07-2010, 02:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kesslari

I understand that it's a good practice to break in bass speakers by running a steady tone (30 hz?) through them for a few hours.
Do I have that right, and if so, how do you manage it without driving your family out of their gourds?

Get two, face them at each other and run them out of phase!

**Chef** · #**202** 12-07-2010, 03:01 AM

somehow, i seem to have always done alright by just playing them.

mikeddd · #**203** 12-07-2010, 03:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.oreilly

a great break in tool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQw4w9WgXcQ

Oh no, you didn't.

You did NOT just RickRoll this thread.

BurningSkies · #**204** 12-07-2010, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chef

somehow, i seem to have always done alright by just playing them.

this.

Kahooli · #**205** 12-07-2010, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeddd

Oh no, you didn't.

You did NOT just RickRoll this thread.

... Advertisements on youtube have ruined rickrolling, sadly.

Fail.

rpsands · #**206** 12-07-2010, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chef

somehow, i seem to have always done alright by just playing them.

This does of course work, but one night of sine wave at a a decent intensity will do what weeks of playing will do (in my experience). Lap top tone generators and a bass amp make it easy.

greenboy · #**207** 12-07-2010, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WCunha

Are these the wirewound resistors listed in the Wiki?

Ya. 5 of those in place of 5 of the Mills is a considerable savings.

Also you asked about the gray open cell foam to place on the baffle of the 1515/66 if not using a HF section. That's to cut down reflection - not that different than damping the interior.

WCunha · #**208** 12-07-2010, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenboy

Ya. 5 of those in place of 5 of the Mills is a considerable savings.

Also you asked about the gray open cell foam to place on the baffle of the 1515/66 if not using a HF section. That's to cut down reflection - not that different than damping the interior.

Thanks GB.

Has anyone finished a cabinet with an automotive finish? I know it's not practical just curious if anyone did anything different from the normal duratex or tolex. I was thinking a deep metallic blue

greenboy · #**209** 12-07-2010, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dug dog

Here's the link to that ply product

http://www.pantimusa.com/feather_ply.html#chart

thanks, dug dog.

Yeah, reading that Falcatta plywood copy, it seems like it wouldn't be much of a risk to build with it.

Strong, yet very light weight for innovative applications, 32.9 pounds per sheet typical
Grades: IHPA grades BB, CC, Overlay and Utility
Construction: 5-ply
Face: Meranti or Melapi 1.5mm veneer, for extra screw holding power
Core: Fully composed. No core laps or core gaps as in conventional plywood

wcriley · #**210** 12-07-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WCunha

Has anyone finished a cabinet with an automotive finish? I know it's not practical just curious if anyone did anything different from the normal duratex or tolex. I was thinking a deep metallic blue

I sprayed mine green. Krylon, not automotive.

rpsands · #**211** 12-07-2010, 10:50 AM

Meranti's commonly used as marine plywood, probably tough stuff

Looks like a little weight shavings over arauco but not much. I can't find any prices on there but it looks expensive.

Looks about comparable to the Okoume marine plywood I researched in weight, which is awesome. That stuff is supposedly potentially toxic if you're not careful.

WCunha · #**212** 12-07-2010, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wcriley

I sprayed mine green. Krylon, not automotive.

I'd like to see some pics of that.

greenboy · #**213** 12-07-2010, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpsands

Meranti's commonly used as marine plywood, probably tough stuff

Looks like a little weight shavings over arauco but not much. I can't find any prices on there but it looks expensive.

Falcatta core: Fully composed. No core laps or core gaps as in conventional plywood

wcriley · #**214** 12-07-2010, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenboy

You should get your own wiki cab page with photos, descriptions or whatever linked up in the Builds in progress or completed section. Really easy to do.

Been thinking about doing that. If for no other reason than to prove that these cabs can be built without woodworking experience or a table saw.

I need to figure out how to post to the wiki, first.

rpsands · #**215** 12-07-2010, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenboy

Falcatta core: Fully composed. No core laps or core gaps as in conventional plywood

Gotcha, I was talking about the veneer wood which is apparently meranti. Meranti is quite a lot heavier than arauco (at least the marine ply version is). Closer to BB in weight.

Sorry shoulda split out those sentences I guess so people didn't assume they were related. Meranti was mentioned because it's tough (for holding screws).

Bill Whitehurst · #**216** 12-07-2010, 04:26 PM

I have heard, in the past, that plain old white pine is lighter than plywood.
I'm guessing that would be ordinary 5/8 1 x whatever vs, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood.
I have had good luck in the past using pine.
I even got by with No. 2, by avoding using any parts with knotholes.
It's a good thing you can pick which boards you buy at Home Depot.
Has anyone built a fEarful using pine and if so, how much did it weigh?

Sigurd · #**217** 12-07-2010, 05:14 PM

Is 18AWG solid wire sufficient for wiring a crossover?

Bill Whitehurst · #**218** 12-07-2010, 06:06 PM

In most cases, I'd say so, but these cabs can handle a lot of power,
so I'd say play it safe and go for 14 AWG.

Nachoooooooo · #**219** 12-07-2010, 06:53 PM

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...r/PC070205.jpg

Confused about this...I'm powering a 15/6/1 with a hartke 3500 head and this happened during a gig. Any ideas? The head was never turned up beyond 50% power since that was always loud enough. Curious if this is an isolated issue, I'll be going to eminence about warranty repair. Had to happen before a big outdoor festival this weekend!! Doesn't pass the 9V batt test either...

Queg · #**220** 12-07-2010, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Whitehurst

In most cases, I'd say so, but these cabs can handle a lot of power,
so I'd say play it safe and go for 14 AWG.

My guideline is to just match the inductor wire gauge. (The recommended upgrade inductor is 14 AWG). In fact, I used 14 AWG magnet wire for the entire xover and speaker connections.