Quick question about carpeted cabs

volerium · #1 01-23-2013, 06:05 PM

Finally got some replacement speakers for my SWR 410 now.. to put these in..

Do I rip the carpet off and the back will reveal screws to open it up?

Or just extracting the speakers from the front and the re wiring from the input pad on the back should be enough room for me to work with?

JoeWPgh · #2 01-23-2013, 06:08 PM

If it's like my 1X15 the speaker screws are in the front. All you need do is pop the grill.

volerium · #3 01-23-2013, 06:14 PM

Ok cool. Doing that now. All these speakers have 8 holes but are only screwed in by 4.. anyone ever think it's necessary to fill in all 8 or is that just pointless?

Arial Bender · #4 01-23-2013, 06:18 PM

Fill all screwholes.

JoeWPgh · #5 01-23-2013, 06:48 PM

Replace the screws to where they were

bluestarbass · #6 01-23-2013, 07:02 PM

Yea just the four that were there.

Stone Soup · #7 01-23-2013, 07:08 PM

I would use all eight.

stepswork4me · #8 01-23-2013, 07:18 PM

Are there 8 holes pre-drilled in the cab or are there 8 holes in the speaker housing?

MIMike · #9 01-23-2013, 07:34 PM

If I remember right, I just took the speakers out of my 2x12 Bigfoot and they were secured with t-nuts and bolts, not screws. Just use the t-nuts again if that's the case. There should be enough speaker wire inside to just work from the front...connect wires, drop back in and bolt them down.

nashvillebill · #10 01-23-2013, 07:50 PM

Pay attention to the wiring polarity on the old speakers, make sure the new speakers are connected the same way.

volerium · #11 01-23-2013, 10:42 PM

Yeah the speakers have 8 holes but the cab just has the 4 so for now I'll just leave things how they are. Cab has a horn in it, if I was wanting to ditch that easily, could I just disconnect the wires from the horn and leave it as is.. or would that mess up the ohms somehow? I went ahead and just disconnected the wires from the horn, now it's just a 410 bass cab and it sounds pretty good. Shaking the windows already so we'll really see how it sounds tomorrow.

Last question. I had read that you shouldn't tighten the speakers in completely, something about them pushing hard and ripping. Not sure if that's true I went ahead and tightened everything flush, not super tight or anything. Everything seems great so far. Lemme know if I'm forgetting anything

wcriley · #12 01-24-2013, 04:41 AM

If your cab has a real crossover (a coil of wire in addition to a capacitor or two) for the high frequecy driver, you should disconnect the wires before the crossover.

You need to tighten the driver mounting screws enough that you don't have any air leakes between the driver's frame and the baffle. Make sure they're tightened evenly, like the lug nuts on a car wheel. I don't know why anyone would suggest not tightening them.

JoeWPgh · #13 01-24-2013, 04:41 AM

Why disconnect the tweeter/horn? There's a volume on the back where you can turn it down, right?

murphy · #14 01-24-2013, 05:40 AM

Do not put extra holes in the cab
Just follow what SWR had done

volerium · #15 01-24-2013, 09:33 AM

This was my first experience with messing with any sort of cab, replacing speakers and all that. I took an old swr workingman 410 and put in 4 pa speakers. Everything's gone just fine, I was able to take everything out of the front and work from there. Out of the 16 screws taken out, only one refuses to go back in so I might have to make sure that's matching up and drill that just the slightest bit but shouldn't be any problem.

I wasn't a fan of the horn on this thing at all. And wasn't sure of how to remove the crossover so I just pulled the wires from the back of the horn and left it as is. There is an on/off switch on the back, yes, but another post I had about replacing speakers mentioned this- and that's why I just disconnected it.

As for the tweeter comment, popular opinion here is that distortion pedals are noisy and otherwise sound bad in the high-highs, and it's especially bad through most tweeters. Again, does your guitar player use tweeters? Does Lemmy? Does an SVT? You can always turn down a tweeter, but sometime the crossover will still low pass the woofer so you lose more highs than intended.

spacebassed · #16 01-24-2013, 09:59 AM

Don't use 8 screws per speaker, use 4 in a +shape just like SWR did at the factory. Using more screws isn't going to be an improvement, if anything it would make it more likely to put uneven tension on the frame and potentially cause a problem like a coil rub.

volerium · #17 01-24-2013, 10:52 AM

Ugh. Haha turns out this last hole is completely stripped, the metal bolt hole you screw into so.. thoughts now? I'm completely done and I have one lousy screw left. Move to another hole and just drill into the wood there or something else? This last hold out screw has me frustrated. It came out just fine

MIMike · #18 01-24-2013, 11:17 AM

No, that threaded thing is called a T-nut, you need to remove the damaged t-nut and replace it with a new one from the hardware store.

You will need to pull the speaker back out and carefully remove it and get one the same size to push back back in from the inside of the cab.

JoeWPgh · #19 01-24-2013, 11:26 AM

It sounds like the T nut just got poked out. You don't want to leave that loose and rattling around. You can probably reuse the old one. A drop of super glue on one of the flanges (not the threaded part!) should hold it in place until you get your bolt started

MIMike · #20 01-24-2013, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWPgh

It sounds like the T nut just got poked out. You don't want to leave that loose and rattling around. You can probably reuse the old one. A drop of super glue on one of the flanges (not the threaded part!) should hold it in place until you get your bolt started

Good thought JoeWPgh, it may have just fallen out and needs to be pushed back in from the back side (inside of the cab). Once you get the bolt started it will also end up holding it in.