Seismic Audio Cabs - help !

[pnut166]

I have a 410 and 210 Seismic Audio cabs. While I have read generally decent things about them, honestly, mine sound like ass. For those unfamiliar with them, they are MDF cabs, no tweeter or dampening, with Chinese drivers. They are extremely boomy, at any volume or EQ. Does anyone have experience with these cabs or know any tricks to improve them ? Add batting ? Change the port size ? EQ suggestions?Set `em by the road ?

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by pnut166

I have a 410 and 210 Seismic Audio cabs. While I have read generally decent things about them, honestly, mine sound like ass. For those unfamiliar with them, they are MDF cabs, no tweeter or dampening, with Chinese drivers. They are extremely boomy, at any volume or EQ. Does anyone have experience with these cabs or know any tricks to improve them ? Add batting ? Change the port size ? EQ suggestions?Set `em by the road ?

The last. You might get them to barely acceptable with adequate bracing and damping. But it might be a wasted effort with the cheap drivers. You don't always get what you pay for, there are certainly high priced cabs that don't deliver what they should. But when a deal seems too good to be true, it usually is.

[Roadkill]

Try blocking off the ports or reducing their sizes. Seems like cheap cabs tend to be tuned too high IME. If you're feeling ambitious measure the outer cab and the size and depth of the present ports and someone can tell you for sure. But it's easiest to just block them and see if the cab sounds "better" - if so then you can figure out the "right' thing to do with 'em.

[Exploiter8]

I've been using a 210 for a number of years. I needed something cheap to leave at the drummer's house. Yes, the cab is cheaply built. Yes, the 8ohm cab's speakers are a six-bolt pattern and only screwed into plywood which had voids in it. No, it doesn't look like it would stand up to life on the road. You know what? I really like the way mine sounds. I do use either a BDDI or VT, depending on what amp I use. My basses, both passive and active, strung with flats, are notoriously dull sounding. I think a good preamp is the key. I think it sounds as good as my Avatar Neo B210. Just my experience.

X8

[pnut166]

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

The last. You might get them to barely acceptable with adequate bracing and damping. But it might be a wasted effort with the cheap drivers. You don't always get what you pay for, there are certainly high priced cabs that don't deliver what they should. But when a deal seems too good to be true, it usually is.

I never owned a rig, and this one came up ridiculously cheap on CL. The seller claimed his newborn was asleep upstairs, so I coudn`t actually turn the volume up. And what little info that is here on TB seemed like they`d be sufficient. They sounded okay at speaking level, and it was all I could possibly afford. I needed something loud, and it gets loud...boomy, honky loud. My other amp is a Line 6 LD 150. It sounds great - rich, deep, full and dynamic. This rig, however, just sounds like BAM BAM BAM !!! No tone at all

[madmachinist]

first thing i'd do is take the grille off, pull one of the drivers,
and inspect the inside of the cab . if it looks less than rigid , you can start by removing the rest of the speakers and
investing $6 in a tube of liquid nails and an 8' 2x4 from
home depot .

use the LQ nails to caulk around any unbraced intersections
of the panels . then cut the lumber to be a snug fit between
the speaker board and the back of the cab , and glue in place with th LN's and a couple drywall screws to hold in place while
the glue dries.(put 3 or 4, evenly spaced around the cab front.)

let it cure overnight , and try it again . it shouldn't rattle anymore.

edit:
don't forget to caulk under the handles and jackplate- they can rattle at volume too .

if it still is boomy, stuff a t-shirt into the port to close it
and try it out . if that's still boomy , get 2-$2 pillows from
a thrift store , gut 'em and stuff the cab w/ the fiber.

if that doesn't work......forget it, and move on.
you've only spent $10 trying.

[Roadkill]

I looked up the dimensions of those cabs and really think they'd sound WAY better with the ports closed off. The 2x10 has two ports - try just stuffing a rag in one (as "madmachinist" suggested) and see if that does it .

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by Roadkill

I looked up the dimensions of those cabs and really think they'd sound WAY better with the ports closed off.

Without knowing the driver specs there's absolutely no basis for drawing that conclusion. But if the drivers are of the likely $10 variety they probably are very high Qts and could benefit from sealing the cab, but not before filling it with polyester pillow stuffing.

investing $6 in a tube of liquid nails and an 8' 2x4 from
home depot .
use the LQ nails to caulk around any unbraced intersections
of the panels . then cut the lumber to be a snug fit between
the speaker board and the back of the cab , and glue in place with th LN's and a couple drywall screws to hold in place while
the glue dries.(put 3 or 4, evenly spaced around the cab front.)

A 2x4 is eight times the mass required. 1x1s are sufficient.

[trowaclown]

The Fitzmaurice strikes again! Good advice as always, good sir.

[Roadkill]

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

Without knowing the driver specs there's absolutely no basis for drawing that conclusion. But if the drivers are of the likely $10 variety they probably are very high Qts and could benefit from sealing the cab, but not before filling it with polyester pillow stuffing.

The cheapness of the cabs implies that the drivers are as you speculate - in any case the easiest (and free) thing to do is to block the ports and give it a listen . I agree that increasing the apparent volume of these shallow cabs by stuffing them is a good idea but if they don't sound significantly better with just the ports blocked I'd not bother to waste any more time or materials on them. But I'll bet all you all a beer they can be significantly improved with just the ports blocked .

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by Roadkill

But I'll bet all you all a beer they can be significantly improved with just the ports blocked .

It all depends on the driver Qts. Many higher Q drivers, like the Alpha Ten, can give virtually identical small signal results in both sealed and vented cabs of the same size, so blocking the port may have no audible effect, while stuffing it would.

increasing the apparent volume of these shallow cabs by stuffing them is a good idea

Stuffing doesn't increase apparent volume, it lowers Q. There are similarities in the result but they're not the same thing.

[ERIC31]

I have 1x15 and 2x10 Seismic Audio cabinets. This thread is very relevant and I look forward to more discussion on this!!

[pnut166]

Very, very good suggestions, guys. My gut tells me these cabs can sound decent, with a little help. Excited to try these tips. I know there is no dampening in them, and I doubt there is much in the way of bracing - the cabs are pretty light. I`m sure they sell alot of these due to the price (the SX of cabs lol), so this thread should have relevance for others. Appreciate all the help so far ! Hopefully this weekend I can try these mods and maybe post a few before / after clips

[pnut166]

Originally Posted by ERIC31

I have 1x15 and 2x10 Seismic Audio cabinets. This thread is very relevant and I look forward to more discussion on this!!

What is your opinion of the cabs ?

[pnut166]

Originally Posted by Exploiter8

I've been using a 210 for a number of years. I think a good preamp is the key. X8

I`m using an old Trace Eliott GP11 mkV preamp. However, I have a XT Live on the way ...

[Petebass]

Originally Posted by pnut166

- For those unfamiliar with them, ... no tweeter .....They are extremely boomy,

- This rig, however, just sounds like BAM BAM BAM !!! No tone at all

Bracing and damping material will help, as will lowering the tuning frequency. But I'm surprised no-ones recommended adding a high frequency driver of some sort? Piezo tweeter(s) will be the cheap and easy option. Or perhaps an Alpha 6 mid with an appropriate crossover?

[Roadkill]

Originally Posted by Petebass

I'm surprised no-ones recommended adding a high frequency driver of some sort? Piezo tweeter(s) will be the cheap and easy option. Or perhaps an Alpha 6 mid with an appropriate crossover?

The cheap arse speakers in these cabs probably have decent high-end anyways - plus we're gettin' into obsessive turd polishing territory here I think?


Seriously to the OP:
I'd highly recommend doing one change at a time and stopping when you're happy with the sound.

[ERIC31]

Originally Posted by pnut166

What is your opinion of the cabs ?

I like them ok. Not the best by far but workable. With the budget so tight...you play what you can afford.

I've gigged with them and they did fine. Of course I'm stacking money to upgrade to Avatar cabs at some point in hte near future.

[greenboy]

Originally Posted by Roadkill

The cheap arse speakers in these cabs probably have decent high-end anyways - plus we're gettin' into obsessive turd polishing territory here I think?

Gee. Ya think? I mean, there could be a Meyer cab in there, just waiting to get out ; }

Seriously to the OP:
I'd highly recommend doing one change at a time and stopping when you're happy with the sound.

Frankly, if someone is very discerning that's going to take them right back to the step above: excessive turd polishing.

[madmachinist]

i think we all use what we can afford.

sure... if you play a $3500 bass guitar , have a $2000 amp,
then , cheap-o cabs are just junk to you.

to the less fortunate, the younger players, or the casual
enthusiast ... it may be all they can afford at the time
and want to make the best of what's available.

if i can fix a $100 4x10 for $10 , then i could spend the
money i'd have to save to get a cab that cost much more
on something else (food- bills - rent- a new compressor...)

i'm not calling snobbery... but give these guys a break.