| 1. If the speaker baffle - the place where the speaker will actually mount to the box - is wood - not carpet then, ideally the speaker frame has gasket material applied to it. This stuff compresses as you tighten down the frame to the box and prevents air leakage around the speaker. (It isn't tragic if it isn't there but it's better if it is. If the box is carpeted, that is usually enough...)
2. A driver as powerful as your's requires stout mechanical attachment - I like 'hurricane' inserts and clamps, some folks use Tee nuts and bolt directly through the frame. What I don't use is screws ... You can get away with screws in lower powered boxes - Avatar does that in their boxes and I like their some of their boxes a bunch. They don't do a sub-oriented super high power box though and the wood screw method is just not appropriate for a box that has to endure the potential vibration that your driver can produce.
3. phase - make sure that your amp, cable, jack and speaker agree on what the + and - are ...
If you are doing a driver replacement in an existing commercial cab - the best bet is probably to use whatever the original builder used for mounting hardware and wire at least to start - If the wire looks too small that might be a place for improvement. if the mounting hardware is puny - there is another ...
and +1 on the break in period. Go a little slow in the volume department for a bit
__________________
I think I'd know normal if I saw it ... 'Calvin
Last edited by 4Mal : 03-18-2010 at 09:52 AM.
| 
