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05-27-2010, 07:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: omaha, ne | | | So I have a Basslite S2012 laying around...
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And I'm getting sick of dragging the SVT-CL and SVT-810E to smaller gigs.
I was thinking about getting this cabinet: http://www.lopoline.com/catalog/item...90/3977011.htm
And porting it myself per the .pdf at eminence.com. Looks like the volume of the Lopo cab is just a little larger than they specify (2.99 cubic feet versus the recommended 2.857).
Does this sound like a solid plan? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Last edited by csholtmeier : 05-27-2010 at 07:33 AM.
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05-27-2010, 10:27 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Actually the cabinet volume needs to take into account the thickness of the cabinet so the internal volume assuming 3/4" thickness is more like 2.6 cu ft. Probably a bit less when you take into account that the baffle is a bit recessed, so maybe 2.4 to 2.5 (not including the driver displacement, so maybe in reality 2.2 to 2.3 ultimately). Still within the acceptable range for that driver in a ported enclosure according to the specs. I would play around a bit with WinISD to get the porting right but it looks like it would work OK. | 
05-27-2010, 10:56 AM
|  | Less Ebay, more Mel Bay | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ | | You'd be better off building a Jack 112 
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Markbass SD1200 -> fEarful 1515/66 (or TC115N) Red Complex | 
05-27-2010, 01:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: omaha, ne | | Quote:
Originally Posted by rpsands You'd be better off building a Jack 112  | I had a DR250 that I didn't really care for. Looks like the Jack is similar. | 
05-27-2010, 01:38 PM
|  | Less Ebay, more Mel Bay | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ | | DR250s are not a full range bass cab. They're a PA top.
Edit: Looks like it can be used as a bass cab. Not sure I'd go that way myself though. It's got a precipitous drop under 80hz that makes me a but dubious. Also, it's HUGE.
If you want to do a standard cab, you can do a lot better than the Lopoline and drilling / cutting your own ports in a guitar cab (which will inevitably be underbraced and made of 3/4" plywood).
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Last edited by rpsands : 05-27-2010 at 01:40 PM.
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05-27-2010, 01:52 PM
| | | | If you cut a 4" port in the speaker baffle (assuming .75" thick baffle, and using that as the depth of the port), add high pass protection at 40Hz or even 50Hz, and limit amp power to 150 watts, the LOPO cab should be fine with the BassLite 2012 speaker. | 
05-27-2010, 10:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | | That cab weighs 22 lbs empty? Too heavy IMO for such a lightweight speaker. I'd make a cab myself from 1/2 inch ply and make it closer to 15lbs empty. I di something similar for a Delatlite 2512 recently.
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05-27-2010, 10:43 PM
|  | Less Ebay, more Mel Bay | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ | | | No way a 2.5cf 1/2" ply cabinet will be 15lbs empty. I built a 1.3cf net cabinet out of 3/8" BC ply and it was 15lbs empty.
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05-27-2010, 10:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by rpsands No way a 2.5cf 1/2" ply cabinet will be 15lbs empty. I built a 1.3cf net cabinet out of 3/8" BC ply and it was 15lbs empty. | Man why is TB so friggin argumentative nowadays?
Believe when you want. I built it, I weighed it. 12mm ply, 70 litre internal volume, 7.1kg. Do you own conversions!
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Last edited by Petebass : 05-27-2010 at 10:59 PM.
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05-28-2010, 12:17 AM
|  | Less Ebay, more Mel Bay | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ | | | Actually I take it back; it's possible, if you don't brace much because of a low output speaker or used light plywood. What kinda ply, porting scheme, and bracing scheme if you don't mind my asking?
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05-28-2010, 12:29 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by rpsands Actually I take it back; it's possible, if you don't brace much because of a low output speaker or used light plywood. What kinda ply, porting scheme, and bracing scheme if you don't mind my asking? | Sorry, I didn't mean to snap. It just seems like I have to be constantly defending myself around here lately.
I must preface this my saying fancy ply is neither easy to find in Australia, not is it cheap. I've always used basic hoop pine ply, but I'm fussy about picking the best pieces.
The port was circular plastic deliberately chosen to keep weight down.
Bracing was minimal, but I've settled on a method which IMO gives the greatest strength/weight ratio. I used what I call "crucifix bracing" i.e. bracing that’s basically a cross in the middle of the cab or as in this case, at the weakest point of the front baffle. Not only does this link the opposing panels together as normal bracing would, the point where the cross intersects is glued and screwed so as to create a link to both adjacent panels as well. In other words, the front baffle draws on the stiffness 4 panels at the same time: itself, the back panel, and BOTH side panels. This in effect gives my 12mm ply the same strength characteristics as 48mm ply would have, more if you factor in the strength of the brace itself and the direction of the forces being applied to the adjacent panels. 
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05-28-2010, 01:03 AM
|  | Less Ebay, more Mel Bay | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Phoenix, AZ | | | Ah, I see. That's probably why then. My 3/8" cab is braced to hell and back to take a 3012HO's maximum juice, and uses a shelf port to get maximum frontage. With a 2012 type driver it'd be fine to brace like that probably. It's more than most commercial cabs use.
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