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06-08-2011, 12:16 PM
| | | | Speaker Repair
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I just got an ampeg PR-410HLF (great cabinet by the way) and the speakers have this minor wear around their outer edge. How vital is repair at this point, and how would I go about doing the repairs myself? Thanks! | 
06-08-2011, 01:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: USA | | | That's not minor wear, that's a torn cone. And they all look like this? Hope you got a "blown speaker" discount. Seriously... if this was sold as a working cabinet, I think it was mis-represented.
There are some home fixes you can try, but that's a good-sized rip to patch, and there may be more damage that you can't see. | 
06-08-2011, 01:12 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Toronto Ontario Canada | | | Agreed, that speaker at least needs a re-cone. Check all the others for similar damage.
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06-08-2011, 01:45 PM
| | | | Thanks for the info. It still sounds good and clear even when I push it pretty loud, so I assumed it was fairly minor. This is the worst tear, the others have about 25% of this one's damage. Know of any good re-coning kits? | 
06-08-2011, 02:48 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Columbus OH | | | The only "good" reconing kit is the one designed for that exact model speaker. If you have no experience reconing speakers, it would be very ill-advised.
You can probably pick up an entire used cabinet of that model for what it would cost to get four of those speakers reconed.
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06-08-2011, 02:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Palm Coast, Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Moesle The only "good" reconing kit is the one designed for that exact model speaker. If you have no experience reconing speakers, it would be very ill-advised.
You can probably pick up an entire used cabinet of that model for what it would cost to get four of those speakers reconed. | /\/\
THIS
Whoever sold you that cab stole your money (hope it wasn't a "friend")
Putting new or even reconed speakers in that cab will likely cost you more than buying another used one in good condition.
If it's not too late, I would try to return it and get a refund.
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06-08-2011, 02:57 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | | I would look for a refund if possible, too, but if not possible, you can fix cone tears easily with rubber cement. Done it many times, doesn't change the sound.
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06-08-2011, 03:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2011 Location: Earth Mostly. | | | I don't want to come off as completely rude but if all the woofers look like that you got screwed.
The woofer in the pic is hosed. Rubber cement will not save that.
Unfortunately there's too much stress that close to the edge of the woofer.
The amount of material it would take to repair that back to a strong state would add to much weigh to the woofer.
Options:
A. Get a refund!
B. Replace the woofers
C. Exact replacement re-cone kit
If you can't get a refund personally I would get all new woofers.
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06-08-2011, 03:23 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CpTCrunch I don't want to come off as completely rude but if all the woofers look like that you got screwed.
The woofer in the pic is hosed. Rubber cement will not save that. | You'd be surprised. I've fixed a lot of tears that long with it.
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06-08-2011, 04:07 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: USA | | | Reconing is not usually a DIY project.
As JimmyM says, speaker tears can be patched with rubber cement. Especially with a tear that bad, I would bridge/reinforce it with something like nylon hose or light fabric. I've never repaired that large a tear, but if Jimmy has, that's some encouragement.
But again, there may be more damage than you can see. This speaker has probably seen too much power. There may be damage to the other speakers, to spiders and/or voice coils... I think a refund is your best solution. Sorry. | 
06-08-2011, 04:09 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Maine | | | I've used clear nail polish or "Seals All" on some pretty bad looking cones with decent results. Agreed the cab should have never been sold like that unless you knew about it ahead of time. Try the cheap fix first. They may last a week. They may last years. Worth the $3 to find out.
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06-08-2011, 06:38 PM
| | | | It was a trade, and thankfully even at it's current state it was a good trade. I would still like to repair or re-cone these speakers. I'll have to find someone who deals with these things in my area and get some advice. Thanks for all the great info!! I'm new to this site and love the fact that everyone is so helpful. | 
06-08-2011, 06:45 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Cincinnati, OH | | | If you decide to go the repair route, I had a great experience with Parts Express (partsexpress.com) repair service. They did a top notch job on one of the speakers in my Berg HS410.
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06-08-2011, 07:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Saginaw, MI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyM You'd be surprised. I've fixed a lot of tears that long with it. | +1
I repaired a Cerwin Vega 18" speaker that was torn 90% of the diameter near the rim. It was in an Acoustic 301.
I used strips of "Handi wipes" and rubber cement.
The speaker worked very well for many, many years. I eventually sold the cab and DID tell the buyer.
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06-08-2011, 07:14 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by laylaychrome It was a trade, and thankfully even at it's current state it was a good trade. I would still like to repair or re-cone these speakers. I'll have to find someone who deals with these things in my area and get some advice. Thanks for all the great info!! I'm new to this site and love the fact that everyone is so helpful. | Well try the rubber cement route first if you want to save money. Reinforcing it with Handi Wipes strips sounds like a good idea, too.
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06-08-2011, 07:28 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2011 Location: Earth Mostly. | | | I usually use several layers of tissue paper.
Put on glue.
Wipe off glue with a business card leaving a thin even layer of glue.
Put on little piece of tissue paper.
Put glue on top of the paper.
Then wipe it flat with the card again.
Let it dry then do another layer.
I have no doubt it will hold together under light loads.
But running it at acceptable volume levels will be a crap shoot.
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06-08-2011, 07:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Saginaw, MI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CpTCrunch I usually use several layers of tissue paper.
Put on glue.
Wipe off glue with a business card leaving a thin even layer of glue.
Put on little piece of tissue paper.
Put glue on top of the paper.
Then wipe it flat with the card again.
Let it dry then do another layer.
I have no doubt it will hold together under light loads.
But running it at acceptable volume levels will be a crap shoot. | Sound like a good plan too!
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06-08-2011, 07:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Los Angeles | | Quote:
Originally Posted by StereoPlayer
I used strips of "Handi wipes" and rubber cement.  | +1 I'd let the handi wipes dry out first.
I've used rubber cement or silicon caulk and thin window screen. | 
06-08-2011, 08:09 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Saginaw, MI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumbo +1 I'd let the handi wipes dry out first.
I've used rubber cement or silicon caulk and thin window screen. | Of course, I left that part out. 
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06-09-2011, 04:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: North NJ | | | the build-up method described above is the way to go. many thin coats.
Use a thin yet strong fabric to span the entire gap. I'd consider a thin. strong, pliable fabric before tissuepaper. Handiwipes, huh? Thats creative!
Try the refund route before anything, but dont take a loss on the refund IMO>
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