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07-25-2011, 01:21 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Suffern/Oneonta, NY | | | Split my SVT810 last night... HELP!
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Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue?
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07-25-2011, 01:28 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Appleton | | Pull out the nails, scrape off the splinters or chunks with a chisel and sand the wood so everything looks somewhat smooth. I recommend PL Adhesive. It's a construction grade polyurethane adhesive that expands a bit while curing to give an airtight seal. Many of the DIY cab builders use it, including me. Use with care! Draw a bead all the way around, then nail it in place with a pin nail gun or finishing nails to hold it in place while the glue sets. Do not wipe any oozes! Lop them off with a chisel or razor when fully cured. (You may wish to protect your cabs outside with masking tape just in case.) The glue, not the finishing nails, will be doing the work here. This will be stronger than when built! Buy a Loctite 10 Oz. PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive - 1390595 at The Home Depot
Last edited by Coolhandjjl : 07-25-2011 at 01:34 PM.
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07-25-2011, 01:45 PM
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Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | | And be a little kinder to it when you get it fixed, too. Looks like you've really put the whoop-ass on it.
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07-25-2011, 01:59 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Windermere, FL | | | Once you get it glued back on you can always use some "Bondo" to fill in the gaps and smooth everything out.
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Jim Owens
Windermere, FL The Official Fender Precision Bass Club #215
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07-25-2011, 02:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NY, NY | | | How the hell did you do that?!
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Originally Posted by THand  Really, what I keep thinking is:
put "getting drunk with GE" on bucket list:D | Taking parts donations for another Drunk Rock bass. FS/FT Montreux Little Buffer Ben Lindsey Jazz |
07-25-2011, 02:01 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: San Diego, CA | | | The joy of chipboard.
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SWEET ZOMBIE JESUS!
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07-25-2011, 02:09 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Seweracuse, NY | | | Use PL Premium. It's expanding, so it will fill any gaps or holes as it dries. It will also be stronger that the crappy chipboard the cab is built with.
__________________ fEARful: for those who want something better: http://greenboy.us/fEARful/ For Sale (locally only): Bergantino HT115 with Cover: $500.00. PM me about it.
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07-25-2011, 02:23 PM
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GBX Member #1 | | Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: London, Ontario, Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by watchitmike
Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue? | I would NOT " sand it smooth" !! Those " little nails " are Brads used in the assembly. Pull out the Brads, and re-assemble it with Carpenters Glue ( NOT White Glue !! ). The reason for NOT sanding is : The irregular surfaces will mate up better than a smooth surface, giving the glue a better grip. If you want more peace of mind.... after it is glued, drive in some small woodscrews as well. DONT FORGET to drill " pilot " holes in the piece you are re-attaching. This way, the wood screws will not split the piece you are re-attaching.
This advice is from building Boat Models for a few years. |
07-25-2011, 02:29 PM
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Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: New Hampshire | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 4StringShooter re-assemble it with Carpenters Glue... | Do not use carpenters glue, use PL Premium as already mentioned. This advise is from building speakers for 40 years. |
07-25-2011, 02:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Central FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by watchitmike
Came clean off. What would be the best way to reattach this? I'm thinking a glue but what type?
It also has small nails in it that aren't visible from the outside. Maybe a few reinforcements after the glue? | FAIL!
If you were here in FL i would say its totally toast and i'll give ya $100 for it  glue it up , secure it with screws and rock on. Be a little more careful this time....  |
07-25-2011, 02:51 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Atlanta, Ga. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyM And be a little kinder to it when you get it fixed, too. Looks like you've really put the whoop-ass on it. | ^ Exactly what I was about to say.... damn thing looks pitiful....
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07-25-2011, 04:46 PM
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GBX Member #1 | | Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: London, Ontario, Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice Do not use carpenters glue, use PL Premium as already mentioned. This advise is from building speakers for 40 years. | Well... excuse me. |
07-25-2011, 04:52 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Long Island, NY | | | DUCT TAPE!
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wicked sweet tight
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07-25-2011, 05:03 PM
|  | America's Favorite Hot Dog! | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: CHI/NWI | | 
Seriously, I have beat my 810s to hell, even broke off casters dropping it off the back of a pickup truck in winter, but I've never, EVER seen that. Good job. |
07-25-2011, 05:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Seweracuse, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by 4StringShooter Well... excuse me. | PL Premium > Carpenter's Glue > White Glue > Grade School Paste >Spit. 
Its strong enough that you don't need screws, nails or any other kind of fastener and it expands so it seals as it goes. Its also easy to work with...wear gloves otherwise it takes a couple weeks to get off the skin... 
__________________ fEARful: for those who want something better: http://greenboy.us/fEARful/ For Sale (locally only): Bergantino HT115 with Cover: $500.00. PM me about it.
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07-25-2011, 05:09 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Suffern/Oneonta, NY | | | I know... this looks pretty bad. I am good to this cabinet though, I promise. It was a rescue that I got with a couple speakers missing. I replaced those, fixed some wiring, put new wheels on it and did the Duratex coating myself a few months ago. The bottom definitely takes the hardest beating though. It sees a lot of concrete floors and goes up and down a lot of narrow stairs. I will keep a closer eye on it after this though. I think the stairs caused this.
Thanks for all the advice. I got the Loctite and I'm gonna reattach it this week.
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07-25-2011, 05:14 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: under a palm tree sippin pepsi | | | well thats one crazy lookin skateboard.
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07-25-2011, 05:21 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Denver, CO | | | Go to the Guitar Clinic on main street, give Jim $30, and he'll treat you nice! |
07-25-2011, 05:48 PM
|  | Give me a blip and I'll totally flip | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Columbus, GA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by BurningSkies Its strong enough that you don't need screws, nails or any other kind of fastener and it expands so it seals as it goes. Its also easy to work with...wear gloves otherwise it takes a couple weeks to get off the skin... | True, however you'll need something to hold it tight and in position while the glue dries. If you're not using an air nailer, I'd drill pilot holes with either screws or nails. Screws won't add any strength to cured PL, but could save you having to clamp or weight the joint while it dries. To drill pilot holes for nails, clip the head off of one of the nails and use it as a drill bit just as you would any other. Stack weights on it or use ratchet tie down straps while it cures.
Oh, and when removing the old nails, try pulling them straight through rather than trying to hammer them back out. Use a pair of diagonal wire cutters. Easier and less mess than trying to push them through the finish- not that anyone would notice on your cab!
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07-25-2011, 05:51 PM
| | Give me a blip and I'll totally flip | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Columbus, GA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by watchitmike I know... this looks pretty bad. I am good to this cabinet though, I promise. It was a rescue that I got with a couple speakers missing. I replaced those, fixed some wiring, put new wheels on it and did the Duratex coating myself a few months ago. The bottom definitely takes the hardest beating though. It sees a lot of concrete floors and goes up and down a lot of narrow stairs. I will keep a closer eye on it after this though. I think the stairs caused this.
Thanks for all the advice. I got the Loctite and I'm gonna reattach it this week. | How does it sound now that it's 'ported'?
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Fender Jazz Bass Club #673
Hindsight is best viewed through beer goggles.
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