SWR WM160 screw sizes

[skruch]

Here's an odd one for you. I bought a used SWR Workingman's 160 head off Ebay. It arrived today and the previous owner has removed the front panel mounting screws, side panel mounting screws, top panel mounting screws and some bottom screws. In other words, the chassis top plate is not attached. Anyone know what screw thread sizes (and types) I need to make this right? FYI, he packed it really badly and the box looked like the UPS truck rolled over it. It fired up just fine. GO SWR!!!!

[mike_v_s]

Originally Posted by skruch

Here's an odd one for you. I bought a used SWR Workingman's 160 head off Ebay. It arrived today and the previous owner has removed the front panel mounting screws, side panel mounting screws, top panel mounting screws and some bottom screws. In other words, the chassis top plate is not attached. Anyone know what screw thread sizes (and types) I need to make this right? FYI, he packed it really badly and the box looked like the UPS truck rolled over it. It fired up just fine. GO SWR!!!!

For the front, you want a 6-32 machine screw with a flat head, maybe 3/8 of an inch long from head to tip. To give you an idea, this is the same diameter/thread count screw as your average outlet cover screw. Although longer, I just verified that they will work (and you can get them in ivory or white!). The top and sides are held on with a sheetmetal screw (also a size six) that's 1/4 long. The stock ones do not have the pointed tip, but it shouldn't matter when you're replacing them.

Enjoy the amp. I had mine for 10 years before it was forced into retirement by sea water.

Mike

[mike_v_s]

Here's some light reading:

My Old Amp and the Sea (abridged)

Mike

[skruch]

Thanks, Mike. Wow. Interesting (if sad) story. I should be glad that all I had to deal with is a bunch of shredded paper in every nook and cranny.

[mike_v_s]

Originally Posted by skruch

Thanks, Mike. Wow. Interesting (if sad) story. I should be glad that all I had to deal with is a bunch of shredded paper in every nook and cranny.

Nah. It was cool to see it power up again. I tried the outlet cover screws just to see if I was right on the size, but it looks kinda cool in a trashy amp sorta way. Those screws can be bought in varying lengths with different colored heads if you look hard enough. Be prepared for them to rust easier, however, as the zinc coating usually doesn't last long. You can probably get them in stainless in the specialty fastener portion of the local hardware store (especially if you live near water), but the selection (including head shape/size) is usually quite limited. A large flat head was original, but a smaller one will work, as will the "pan" head style of the outlet covers.

Mike

[skruch]

Thanks Mike. I got stainless flat heads for the front and stainless machine screws for the sides and top. Worked great. Now it feels really solid. Here is one more question for you, please. The stereo headphone jack only outputs on the left side of the phones. Is this normal? The 2 resistors going to the jack looked a bit cooked. Do you happen to know the values of them? Mine are black and I don't trust the color code. Thanks again for your help. This thing sounds awasome through my TL 606 with an Emi Basslite 2515 speaker.

[skruch]

Per the SWR schemo the resistors are 100 ohm, 1/4 watt. I used two 100 ohm 1 watt. It looks like someone missed the output jack in my amp and hit the headphone jack with a mono speaker plug and turned it up. Yikes. The one still live resistor was a 160 ohm 1/2 watt. I'm happy with my repair.