Tightening Down Speakers

rockinroller · #1 10-13-2011, 09:27 AM

Anybody know how tight the speakers should be in a cabinet? I bought a (used) GK MB210 combo amp and the twin 10s have the typical 7 (or 8--can't recall the exact #) screw-down pattern. Whenever I buy a used amp I like to remove the grill face and tighten down the speakers and tweeter or horn--it's just a habit of mine over the years. The GK's speakers each had about 2-3 screws that did not tighten. I would assume the plywood backing simply wore out over time and unless a larger screw (to bite into surrounding wood) was used, or a bolt/nut assembly instead, the existing screw would simply not be holding down the speaker completely.

I was curious as to your opinions whether the mounting screws need to be "hand-tight", or if they don't snug completely should I replace the offending screw with a larger diameter one? Or is this all worry over nothing?

solodb · #2 10-13-2011, 10:03 AM

Don't have any loose screws attaching your speaker frame as they can vibrate at certain frequencies when you play. As for torque, don't overtighen as that can pull the speaker frame out of alignment and affect the voice coil gap. Just hand snug them down equally all around.

Bass_Pounder · #3 10-13-2011, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solodb

Don't have any loose screws attaching your speaker frame as they can vibrate at certain frequencies when you play. As for torque, don't overtighen as that can pull the speaker frame out of alignment and affect the voice coil gap. Just hand snug them down equally all around.

+1

Additionally, loose screws can cause air leaks in the cab.

Replace the bad screws, and as stated above - do NOT over tighten as that can warp the speaker frame.

rockinroller · #4 10-13-2011, 10:30 AM

Thanks. Will do.

beans-on-toast · #5 10-13-2011, 10:32 AM

Here are some instructions that might help you.

rockinroller · #6 10-13-2011, 10:35 AM

Thanks. Yeah I learned that "X" pattern of tightening a few years ago from something or other.

will33 · #7 10-13-2011, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockinroller

Thanks. Yeah I learned that "X" pattern of tightening a few years ago from something or other.

Like changing a tire, equal pressure all around. If some are stripped, I usually just rotate it an inch or two to get to fresh wood. Or dip some toothpicks or matchsticks in some glue, stick them in the holes and screw it down again.

Cristo · #8 10-13-2011, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by will33

Like changing a tire, equal pressure all around. If some are stripped, I usually just rotate it an inch or two to get to fresh wood. Or dip some toothpicks or matchsticks in some glue, stick them in the holes and screw it down again.

The toothpicks and glue trick is what I did. It's a good fix for stripped holes in all sorts of applications.

will33 · #9 10-13-2011, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristo

The toothpicks and glue trick is what I did. It's a good fix for stripped holes in all sorts of applications.

Yeah, also works good on door hinges or anything else around the house that's coming loose.

Jaco D · #10 10-13-2011, 02:58 PM

Here's what I've learned through the years:

1. As many have mentioned, do not over-tighten.
2. Tighten the drivers evenly. If one side or sector is too tight relative to the rest of the circumference, the driver warps and farts.
3. Follow a "star" pattern in tightening the screws/bolts as if you are tightening a tire.
4. Tighten by hand and in small increments as you go "star" jumping across the bolt holes. Best to tighten with the cab playing something. As you go around the basket, when you tighten a bolt the driver is on the verge of farting, back off. That as tight as you should go.
5. When attaching the drivers, put the cab on its back such that the baffle is pointing to the ceiling. This lessens the warping forces on the basket when tightening.

I've had friends give me "farting" drivers that turned out to be sound ones but were just improperly mounted on the cabs. Lucky me.