Tolex Question

big stubby · #1 01-10-2011, 06:43 PM

I have decided to retolex my new(old) V4 cabinet. For those of you who have done this before, can you offer any advice? What type of glue did you use? Do you glue up the entire cab first or do it in sections? I have worked with contact cement before doing countertops but never vinyl. Any tips would be great. Thanks, I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

JimmyM · #2 01-10-2011, 06:52 PM

contact cement...put it on cab surface and tolex backing and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to get tacky, then put it on. and do one piece at a time.

Oren Hudson · #3 01-10-2011, 06:56 PM

The best way I've found is to carefully remove the old tolex and use that as a pattern. Even if some of it's missing, you can generally still see how it was cut from the factory and follow that. Get a good but somewhat slow acting glue. You don't want it to bond too quickly so you'll have time to get it straight and properly lined up, but needs to be tacky so it will stay where you put it while bonding. You also want to do it in a warm room or warm weather if outside. Don't be afraid to cut a little big. Always easier to trim than cut too short. However, if that happens or you have some gaps here and there, you can use a Sharpie to fill in. I'll bet there are some videos somewhere on the internet, but I haven't looked for them in a while. Let us know if you get stumped. Do you have the correct Ampeg tolex?

**sleepy_monkey** · #4 01-10-2011, 07:53 PM

Search under my name...I posted lots of links a few years ago. I am on my phone or I would point you to it.

Vintage-Blue · #5 01-10-2011, 07:56 PM

I wouldn't go any faster than you are comfortable with. I still tend to work slowly, going piece by piece. I've seen production coverers work though and they go pretty fast.

I would recommend against using a standard contact cement like you would use on counter tops. I did that on the first cabinet I covered and it caused problems. Besides the smell, it tends to be a little thicker than what you want. It also seems to react with the vinyl, causing it to stretch. My joints that were tight to begin with opened up after a couple days when the vinyl shrunk back. I now use a water-based contact cement designed for Tolex. Mojo sells a good product.

big stubby · #6 01-10-2011, 08:13 PM

Thanks, I read somewhere to use water based cement. I picked up DAP Weldwood nonflammable contact cement. It is a waterborne contac cement, That cleans up with water and has a 2.5 to 3 hour working time. Is this what I should be using? I have ordered new tolex from fliptops and I also bought some new grill cloth as well. I would like to do it all in one piece wrapping and one piece on the back. I will work slow so I don't screw it up. Thanks for the tips. Keep em coming.

billfitzmaurice · #7 01-10-2011, 08:27 PM

Google it, there are video tutorials out there.

will33 · #8 01-10-2011, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

Google it, there are video tutorials out there.

Best advise there, if you're winging it at home at least get new sharp razor blades and have a straightedge handy. Wrap the top, bottom and both sides in a single piece and have a single seam on the bottom of the cab. The back will be a separate piece. Anywhere there is a seam, overlap both ends or pieces, lay your straightedge down and make a single razor cut through both pieces, gives you a nice seam every time.

big stubby · #9 01-10-2011, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

Google it, there are video tutorials out there.

I did but some of it is vague so I just wanted to hear from people that have actually done it. It seems easy enough. I am of the mindset of measure twice cut once.

big stubby · #10 01-10-2011, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by will33

Best advise there, if you're winging it at home at least get new sharp razor blades and have a straightedge handy. Wrap the top, bottom and both sides in a single piece and have a single seam on the bottom of the cab. The back will be a separate piece. Anywhere there is a seam, overlap both ends or pieces, lay your straightedge down and make a single razor cut through both pieces, gives you a nice seam every time.

Thanks Will, that is exactly my plan.

will33 · #11 01-10-2011, 09:21 PM

Also get a can of cheap flat black spray paint and spray a line of it on the wood anywhere you know there will be a seam. If you're a little off here or there, it won't show like it would if there was light colored wood showing through the seam.

johnk_10 · #12 01-10-2011, 09:24 PM

i used 3m Super 77 heavy duty spray contact cement on all three of the ones that i did. it bonds immediately so you have to get it right the first time. i've re-tolexed so many cabs that it's pretty easy for me.

what i did was to cut one long piece that would cover all four sides (with the final seam on the bottom, just like ampeg did it). i cut it wider than necessary, layed it on a clean smooth level floor and sprayed a section that would cover alittle more than one side. then i sprayed one side of the cab. i let it set for about 2 minutes, picked up the cab and set it on it. once it bonded, i rotated the cab 90 degrees and sprayed another side (of the cab and the tolex, then rotated it onto the floor again, and repeated it untill all four sides were done. it lays super flat that way and doesn't stretch then i went around the front and back edges and trimmed it with a new razor blade. for the back, i cut a piece that was the exact size, and masked off the areas that would have gotten glue over spray on them and layed the back pice on.

here's some pics of one of them:

i also installed new mattress topper inside for dampeneing instead of the messy fiberglass that was in there:

and here's the three of them afterwards:

big stubby · #13 01-10-2011, 10:10 PM

Johnk, 2 questions. i noticed that you do not have feet cups on the left side, did you remove them and fill the holes? and, do you have magnets to hold your grill on? they look like metal to me in that picture.

Oren Hudson · #14 01-10-2011, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnk_10

and here's the three of them afterwards:

Nice job !!!

johnk_10 · #15 01-10-2011, 11:06 PM

yeah, i filled the feet cups on the side since i bought all new ones (imo, they're expensive for what they are) and couldn't see a reason to have them on the side.

the grills on all of them are held on with the original white nubby plastic grill clips. they snap on and off.

i also put all new corners on them. it took me ordering from three different places until i go the ones that had the correct lip dimension for the front ones. i also installed new heavy duty rubber feet on the bottom, and the metal 'glides' on the sides.

big stubby · #16 01-11-2011, 06:32 AM

Thanks Johnk, I was thinking the same same thing about the cups, they are expensive and really not needed on the side so I am going to fill those in. Mycab has metal glides on the bottom and side so I am replacing them. My plastic grill fasteners are in good shape so I'll just reuse them after I put new cloth on. Thanks again for all the help. I can't wait to get started.

**sleepy_monkey** · #17 01-11-2011, 07:53 AM

Here is the mini thread I started way back when....

Replacing Tolex...what you need to know!

beans-on-toast · #18 01-11-2011, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big stubby

I read somewhere to use water based cement. I picked up DAP Weldwood nonflammable contact cement.

I use the same DAP Weldwood water based contact cement that you bought. I've tried the Tolex Glue sold by Antique Electronics and the two products seemed about the same. I've had excellent results using it. It seems to bond just as well as Contact Cement but without the toxicity. I once had to remove a piece of vinyl that was glued with the DAP glue. The glue held and the plywood tore.

Wood prep is very important before you start applying the glue. Make sure any flaws in the wood are filled and sanded smooth. I finish with a 220 grit sanding to ensure that the glue will adhere. When sanding, be very careful with the edges. You do not want to change the radius of the round overs. If you do the metal corners will not fit properly.

JLS · #19 01-11-2011, 11:06 AM

I always used the WBCC, from a company who's name I can't for the life of me, remember right now. I sprayed it on both surfaces with a cheap HVLP setup. I stopped building & covering/recovering cabinets about 10 years ago, shared a shop with Gregg Hopkins (Vintage Amp Restoration). Gregg still does it,
impeccable worksmanship and artistry. He uses all hot hide glue, has a HHG machine; I preferred to use the WBCC for my work.

Edit: Custom Pak, was the company.