Traynor YBA-3 Upates

jastacey · #1 12-19-2010, 03:30 PM

I just acquired another Traynor non-master YBA-3, I pulled the chasis out to see if anyone has hacked the amp, and the only thing I see, is the upgrade to a grounded power cord, looks like the large caps are OEM, and the filter caps seem to be OEM, I plan on changing the 3 Mallory caps as they are old ( The amp works fine, soundwise ), so I'm asking any Traynor experts, what else should I do to update this amp, I've read that one should install on pin 4 of all the output tubes, a 1K- 5 watt resistor, for the screens, in place of the 2- 470 ohm resistors on the outer 2 output tubes, I plan on using the EH EL-34's that are in it or the EH-6CA7's, my goal is to use this amp on a regular basis ......so the question is update it or just play it ..... it is a nice sounding amp as is ...

recreate.me · #2 12-19-2010, 08:32 PM

I have one of these and I am pretty sure its all stock with just the updated cord. It sounds great... I would play it as is for a bit then if you are still not happy then update it.

Gizmot · #3 12-19-2010, 08:39 PM

Amen - the YBA-3 is a monster!

JoshuaTSP · #4 12-19-2010, 09:04 PM

Nothing.

I'd personally wait for it to act up, before I would mess with it.

Thornton Davis · #5 12-20-2010, 09:30 AM

I have a set of Electro Harmonix 6CA7-EH power tubes in my YBA-3 and it runs great.

TD

derridiandrift · #6 12-20-2010, 09:37 AM

I agree with the above... play it until it breaks or until you figure out what, if anything, you don't like about the way it performs.

BassmanPaul · #7 12-20-2010, 12:58 PM

While there are several "updates" you can make to this amp (like the screen resistors you mentioned) I am of the ain't broke don't fix mindset. If the amp is working then leave well enough alone.

okcrum · #8 12-20-2010, 01:06 PM

Serious +1 to Paul. The underside of that chassis is about as clean as it gets, so if it's not broke, don't just go replacing parts willy-nilly because you think they're "old enough". It's the operating time on the parts that wears them out, not the storage time (with the exception of paper/wax caps and some carbon resistors). If those filter caps are low hours and the amp does not hum or buzz, leave them the heck in there!

AL30 · #9 12-20-2010, 01:13 PM

Change the filter caps and the rest of the electrolytics in the amp. Once that is done take some readings in the amp to make sure everything else is OK. If you're readings are in spec you're good to go.

AL

okcrum · #10 12-20-2010, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AL30

Change the filter caps and the rest of the electrolytics in the amp. Once that is done take some readings in the amp to make sure everything else is OK. If you're readings are in spec you're good to go.

AL

Do you just shotgun replace stuff instead of testing it? What if all the readings in the amp are in spec without replacing anything?

AL30 · #11 12-20-2010, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okcrum

Do you just shotgun replace stuff instead of testing it?

On 30 year old filter caps? You bet I do. On the rest of the amp? Depends.

Everyone has a different approach on amps - and I'm no tech. But, "if ain't broke" only goes so far. Filter caps fail, they just do. And if they fail while you're playing you take the risk of damaging the your amp. That's not saying that it will happen but why take the chance? The caps are ony designed to last so long and transformers are expensive.

On the rest of the amp? There are certain parts I'll just replace for good measure if I'm going to be playing the amp on a regular basis. Certain parts in Fenders get replaced, Ampeg V-Series power supply's will get rebuilt etc. If someone else is playing the amp I'll do what they ask.

IMO preventive maintenance is the way to go with amps.

AL

JoshuaTSP · #12 12-20-2010, 01:54 PM

I've got two old Traynor amps and they've both still got the original caps.
I've had a handful of other over the years and they're all had the original caps too.

zero issues.

Actually, my YGL-3a still has the original tubes too. Tested okay too.
All I had to do was clean the tube sockets.

okcrum · #13 12-20-2010, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AL30

On 30 year old filter caps? You bet I do. On the rest of the amp? Depends.

Everyone has a different approach on amps - and I'm no tech. But, "if ain't broke" only goes so far. Filter caps fail, they just do. And if they fail while you're playing you take the risk of damaging the your amp. That's not saying that it will happen but why take the chance? The caps are ony designed to last so long and transformers are expensive.

On the rest of the amp? There are certain parts I'll just replace for good measure if I'm going to be playing the amp on a regular basis. Certain parts in Fenders get replaced, Ampeg V-Series power supply's will get rebuilt etc. If someone else is playing the amp I'll do what they ask.

IMO preventive maintenance is the way to go with amps.

AL

If a new cap fails while playing you run the same risk. Shotgun parts replacement doesn't accomplish much if you know what to look for in the first place.

jastacey · #14 12-20-2010, 05:05 PM

Of all the opinions to techs I've talked to , it seems to be split on change the filter caps, some say, as a matter of practice, they replace them, some say if it's not broke, don't fix it, so my question is: what is a good brand of capacitors

jastacey · #15 01-29-2011, 08:35 AM

Here's an update: I ordered 3- F&T 80uf-450 volt caps to replace the brown Mallory caps ( upon close inspection, the ends are somewhat bulging, and since they are from 1970-1971, they have to go ) and I've swapped them out, and I'm in the process of removing the Mallory 40uf+40uf-450 volt cans, those have tabs that are heavily soldered, and it is slow going, I've decided to use the F&T-50uf+50uf-500 volt cans ( there seems to be no 40uf+40uf cans- 450-500 volt cans, currently being made ) and I'll mount them like Marshall amps mounts them, since I elected to replace all the electrolytics ( there are only 3 other caps on the tag board, that haven't been replaced 1-8uf-450 volt, 2-250uf-16volt) they are getting replaced with Sprague Atoms .... just aquired a quad set of JJ-EL-34L ...read on the Black Velvet site that these are the best soung tubes in the YBA-3's .... seems JJ just released a 6CA7 tube!! I'll post photos later

jastacey · #16 01-31-2011, 11:12 AM

Here's the photo of the recap project, I replaced the 3-80uf-450 volt caps, and the 2-250uf-16 volt caps and the 10uf-450 volt cap, I fired it up and tested it and the tone is somewhat tighter ...... I didn't replace the silver cans ... yet, they test O.K. about 5-10uf above the 40uf spec ... ( need to find a wide tip for my old Weller 140 watt gun so I can melt the huge globs of solder, that the tabs attached to ) .... no one seems to stock that tip ... I'm going to load some JJ-EL-34L's reset the bias ... and see how it sounds .... more to follow ....

groovaholic · #17 01-31-2011, 12:12 PM

I dunno man...that old amp looks dangerous and smelly.

I'll take it off your hands for $50...

All joking aside, I absolutely LOVE the older Traynors and that one looks beautiful.

capnjim · #18 01-31-2011, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jastacey

Here's the photo of the recap project, I replaced the 3-80uf-450 volt caps, and the 2-250uf-16 volt caps and the 10uf-450 volt cap, I fired it up and tested it and the tone is somewhat tighter ...... I didn't replace the silver cans ... yet, they test O.K. about 5-10uf above the 40uf spec ... ( need to find a wide tip for my old Weller 140 watt gun so I can melt the huge globs of solder, that the tabs attached to ) .... no one seems to stock that tip ... I'm going to load some JJ-EL-34L's reset the bias ... and see how it sounds .... more to follow ....

Are you going to install a bias pot? Is there one there??
I just bought one of these bad boys this weekend and didn't even plug it in. It's not pretty, but I have been searching for one for a while and they are getting tough to find. I'll probably change all the high value electrolytics just to be safe.
I had one 7-8 years ago and have still been trying to get the same tone from various solid state amps. My GK800RB is the best SS amp I have had yet, but these old Traynors sound better.
Do you have a fan in yours? The guy I bought mine from said the fan needs to be changed as its really noisy. He promised it worked great and didn't have a cab to test itso I bought it anyways for 400$. My cabs are at my practice space so I havent even been able to turn it on yet.
Friday....band practice and the beast shall breath again!

jastacey · #19 01-31-2011, 02:45 PM

The amp has an adjustment pot to set the bias, you measure the voltage across the R30 ( 10 watt, 470 Ohm resistor ) so it has a drop of 8 volts, if you look at the photo, the 2 black caps kinda in the middle, you'll see a trim pot, yes mine has a fan, it's mounted on the side of the case, I believe in 1972 they moved the fan to the inside of the amp, and mounted it on the chassis, my amp is what folks call a transition amp, it has the chrome bumpers, but it does not have the pop top, you have to slide the chassis out, it has grooves cut in the side bumpers, and most Traynor experts say this occurred 1970-1971

Calaverasgrande · #20 01-31-2011, 02:53 PM

I was about to suggest you get away from the EH power tubes. They seem to wear out fast and are a bit noisier than other brands. But hey, you are already on JJ tesla!
Of course =C= SED is the way to go!