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11-28-2011, 01:25 PM
| | | | Traynor YBA200 Issues
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Hey folks - new user here. This looks like a pretty cool forum. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction with some of the issues I've been having.
Here's the scenario:
After not having had a bass rig for something like 20 years, I've started doing occasional weekend gigs again over the past year or so. I picked up a Gallien-Krueger 210 MBE cab and an old, used 800RB head. The cab is great in terms of price and weight, and certainly capable for what I'm using it for at the moment, although there are certainly heavier and more expensive and better sounding options.
Overall I'm very happy with the sound of the 800RB. It delivers good sound in all the right places. I generally have the EQ set pretty close to flat, but the head doesn't seem to have any problems with minor or major eq adjustments. The problem with this one is that the input jack kacks out, usually somewhere in mid-set.
I will get around to fixing this.
In the meantime, I found a good deal on a used Traynor YBA200. This is the older one with the self bias feature loaded with Sovtek 6550WE tubes. Both input jacks work fine, the build quality feels solid and everything seems to work.
What I'm concerned about is that the GK SMOKES the Traynor in terms of sound quality. The GK is louder, although the Traynor is easily sufficient for the gigs I'm doing. The Traynor sounds scooped - not in a good way. I run this thing with the active switch in the "out" position, and the Range, Scoop and Resonance controls set to zero. (not exactly sure what these things are supposed to do... they seem to make everything sound worse)
The midrange presence of this amp is negligable. The midrange control on the EQ section doesn't seem to do a whole lot. The bass response is HUGE and very flabby. I want a sound that can cut through the mix without killing everything else and it's not happening at the moment.
I'm wondering if anyone has experience with swapping or upgrading the tubes in this thing, and if it will get me closer to what I want out of it. Or, if it's just a case of "it is what it is" and eventually move on to another head.
Given that this amp will bias itself, is it possible to use KT88 tubes instead of the 6550's? Alternatively, would JJ or Tung-Sol 6550's work any better than the Sovteks? What about preamp tubes?
Would any of this make the midrange control on the amp actually work? I'm looking to make a fairly big swing towards better tone with this thing.
Essentially I want to perk up the midrange/low mids so things cut better and tighten up the bass response so it's not all woofy and muddy. Again, the 800RB does not have these issues.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. | 
11-28-2011, 01:28 PM
|  | Domo Arigato, Listen to Nagato. Records of Existence/PyrE owner | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: wes virginny | | | cant answer some of your questions, but basically your complaint is a little more harshly worded version of my own assesment of that amp. I think thats the way it sounds.
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11-28-2011, 01:34 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Minneapolis, MN | | | I've owned a lot of Traynors, but not the YBA200. I don't think changing the power tubes will make much of a difference and they're expensive to experiment with. If you're going to swap, start with the preamp tubes. They make more of a difference and they're cheaper.
With a bit of work you can make it take KT-88's if you want to. I got some JJ/Tesla KT-88's and had a horrible failure rate. I think three died with less than a dozen hours on them. I asked around and was told that this was common for Tesla, although I've had decent luck with their preamp tubes. I have Winged C's in my amp now and they've been much better, but $120/pair.
I wish I could give you better advice on the Traynor, but again, I have no experience with the modern stuff.
Since you like the GK, get the GK fixed. It's a classic amp. Play with the Traynor and see if you can find an inexpensive way to make it work for you or sell it. Don't throw good money after bad, and this is from a Traynor fan who's had about a dozen different Traynors.
KO | 
11-28-2011, 02:56 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Western NY | | | If it has those tubes in it, they are likely original and worn out. A trip to Yorkville for update to -2 adjustable bias specs and KT88 tubes will help. Preamp tubes could use an upgrade if they are stock, too. Much better options out there...
Read the manual and figure out how to use the EQ and other controls. It's sort of complicated but once you get it, you'll get it.
As an aside, I've used that amp a bit and only liked it through the Traynor TC115. Sounded lame with their TC210 or a pair of TC112. I'd like to find out how much they learned from the YBA200 by trying the YBA300, but we are not quite as friendly as we used to be... | 
11-28-2011, 03:28 PM
| | | | You said: "Scoop and Resonance controls set to zero. (not exactly sure what these things are supposed to do... they seem to make everything sound worse)"
by set to zero do you mean fully counter clockwise? I have never played with this amp, but based on my knowledge (limited) of resonance controls, this might be crucial to the sound you described (lacking mids/scooped). Which leads me to believe that the scoop knob is involved too. Try setting all of the controls to 12:00 (straight up) and work from there. | 
11-28-2011, 03:34 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Vancouver | | | KT88s will work and according to Traynor, it solves the issues people have had with the self-biasing circuit. The mid is a bit scooped, and my settings are usually around bass: 1o'clock, mid: 3 o'clock, treble: 11 o'clock, gain: 1 o'clock, range: 11 o'clock with scoop and bright disengaged. My experience is that this amp pretty much begs to get pushed, and sounds great when pushed hard. People have also said that using a lower gain tube helps to clean up the sound a little, allows the gain knob to be dialed up higher and beefs up the mids. | 
11-28-2011, 04:00 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Minneapolis, MN | | | | 
11-28-2011, 04:45 PM
| | | | Thanks for the replies everyone. There's some really helpful stuff in here. | 
11-28-2011, 05:17 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: NH | | Try this...turn the scoop off(scoop and treble boost have a button to engage). TThe range knob is very important...the closer to zero, the dubbier you'll sound...(i like it around 3-5) T. The range knob is pretty interactive with the other eq controls, as is the gain.. Turn the gain up as that seems to fill the sound out.The lower you go(towardss 0) on the resonance control will also help control the bottom
10 is flat on this amp...cut only. Try resonance @ 4 or so, range at 3-5, and cut bass and treble (from 10)to taste.Boost the mids to taste and crank the gain. I love this amp.  | 
11-28-2011, 08:02 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex1984 KT88s will work and according to Traynor, it solves the issues people have had with the self-biasing circuit. The mid is a bit scooped, and my settings are usually around bass: 1o'clock, mid: 3 o'clock, treble: 11 o'clock, gain: 1 o'clock, range: 11 o'clock with scoop and bright disengaged. My experience is that this amp pretty much begs to get pushed, and sounds great when pushed hard. People have also said that using a lower gain tube helps to clean up the sound a little, allows the gain knob to be dialed up higher and beefs up the mids. | Thanks, I'll probably look into getting some KT88's. By "lower gain tube", you mean swapping out the 12AX7's for 12AT7's?
Going into the 0 input I have the gain at 5, or 12 o'clock before things start to break up. I'll try the -6 input if cranking the gain is going to help. | 
11-28-2011, 09:17 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Tasmania, Australia | | | Yep, the 'range' control will help. Have a good ol' fiddle with that AND your EQ at the same time. I'm sure it'll help add some mids
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11-29-2011, 01:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Detroit | | | Search TB for the YBA200. Based on my personal experience, I would steer clear of them. Traynor eventually did the "-2" conversion on mine, which I still have and really like. If you are going to go with one, find a YBA200-2 model and save yourself some grief.
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11-29-2011, 02:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Vancouver | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane Carter Search TB for the YBA200. Based on my personal experience, I would steer clear of them. Traynor eventually did the "-2" conversion on mine, which I still have and really like. If you are going to go with one, find a YBA200-2 model and save yourself some grief. | FWIW, in an e-mail from their service dept. Traynor said the problem was mainly caused by 6550 and there isn't much to worry about if using KT88s.
"If the amp is still working fine and has KT88 tubes in it, I would not be too concerned about the auto-bias, it is usually fairly safe when you have KT88's. It was 6550's which were at the root of all the problems with that amp, not the auto-bias." | 
11-30-2011, 09:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Detroit | | | Alex,
I received the same response when I had mine repaired the first time. The second time they did the "-2" conversion.
Ask yourself why they went to all of the trouble changing the cosmetics and then releasing a "-2" version without the auto-biasing system (which they really hyped BTW, put in any tube and don't worry about taking it to a tech, blah, blah, blah....) when all they really had to do was change the tubes to KT88's and put a sticker on the old amps that says "Now with new and improved tubes!" I repeat myself, find a YBA200-2 model and save yourself some grief. The "-2" corrected a design flaw in the original amp.
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