What is the best adhesive to use to re-secure interior bracing in a bass cab

bcolins · #1 06-21-2010, 12:59 PM

I recently came into an 18" cabinet, its got a very loud buzz on one particular note and it is definitely something internal.....I pulled the grate off and speaker out and a couple of the braces (made of particle board) that run from the front face to the back panel are at least partially able to move a bit if I grab them and tug..............I dont want to tear the cab apart,....just want to apply some sort of adhesive around each of 8 spots in the cab where a front to back brace meets either the front or back panel.

I'm thinking that its got to be a fairly thin (low viscosity) adhesive so that it can creep into the gap between the braces and the panel its tied to.

Maybe better to think of two different adhesives,...something thin that will creep between the panel face and the reinforcement,....then after it dries, go back with a very thick (high viscosity) adhesive like "GOOP" or "E6000" (made by GOOP and appears to be the same product).

What I like about the GOOP/E6000 product is that it is VERY Tenacious,...it sticks to anything....relentlessly;......AND....its somewhat flexible, so it would be likely to hold its bond even in a high vibration environment.

Any Suggestions on adhesives or procedure?

Dont want to dimantle the cab. I question if it will come apart and go back together well since it is glued particle board.

Brian in Austin

billfitzmaurice · #2 06-21-2010, 01:11 PM

You can try Gorilla Glue.

praisegig · #3 06-21-2010, 01:34 PM

The guys building a fEarful cabinets are using PL Premium adhesive.
Here is a short blurb about it.

http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.p...L_Premium_GLUE

mulchor · #4 06-21-2010, 01:50 PM

A few wood screws might help along with the glue.

NoGraveConcern · #5 06-21-2010, 01:53 PM

If you can get a gun in there you can pressurize PL premium into the gap. Otherwise you can thin titebond II with water and brush it in with a paint brush and then put a clamp or weight on it overnite.

MuzikMan · #6 06-21-2010, 01:59 PM

PL adhesive or Gorilla glue. They both expand while curing, filling any voids. They are popular choices for just this sort of thing.

A440Hz · #7 06-21-2010, 02:04 PM

Let us know what you find.

BurningSkies · #8 06-21-2010, 02:09 PM

PL Premium gets my vote. The stuff is awesome, is gap filling so you don't really have to 'pressure' it in and will be stronger than the wood you're bonding.

rpsands · #9 06-21-2010, 02:10 PM

There is a little handheld tube of PL premium. That's what I'd use.

SurferJoe46 · #10 06-21-2010, 02:15 PM

I do some cabinet work for outdoor BBQs - well, up 'till two years ago I did anyway.

If you use Gorilla Snot, then make sure that you pre-moisten the areas you want with some water to glue them together. It will really made a powerful joint that way - and YES it DOES expand.

Make sure that you have nothing else nearby to it that you don't want glued for eternity! Depending on how much you use, it can ooze out of the joint or find something else to encapsulate! Forever!

Jim C · #11 06-21-2010, 03:05 PM

PL or Tightbond are stonger than the face of plywood or particle board IMO
If you really want strong use glue and either screws or blocking (small piece of wood glued alongside the piece in question)

Crockettnj · #12 06-21-2010, 03:30 PM

i'd use blocking as mentioned above. I dont put a lot of faith in older particle board and the more surface area the better.

can you remove and reinstall with py?

dmusic148 · #13 06-21-2010, 03:37 PM

I would have said hot glue, but I suppose all of the above will work just fine. I like hot glue because it 'cures' in a minute or two, fills gaps very well, and there's no odor to speak of, nor cleanup.

seamonkey · #14 06-21-2010, 03:40 PM

The bracing is probably already stapled to the baffle and back.
You could try sistering on little blocks to get a good glue joint on the front and back panels.
Or just rip out the current bracing and cut new sticks to fit.
Titebond II or III would be my choice of glue any day.

bcolins · #15 06-21-2010, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmusic148

I would have said hot glue, but I suppose all of the above will work just fine. I like hot glue because it 'cures' in a minute or two, fills gaps very well, and there's no odor to speak of, nor cleanup.

I thought hot glues were all pretty low strength.

bgavin · #16 06-21-2010, 08:00 PM

Apply PL in the middle of the piece.
Use the hot glue on the ends of the piece.

Push hard and hold for a minute or two. No drilling.
The hot glue holds the PL coated parts in place until they cure.

Chasarms · #17 06-21-2010, 08:16 PM

I used to build sub enclosures for automobile application. We always glued up the box and all the inner bracing with Liquid Nail. That stuff simply will not fail.

R Baer · #18 06-21-2010, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

You can try Gorilla Glue.

+! on the Gorilla glue. It is thin enough to get in the gap you have, plus there will be no need to add anything else later over the top.

I use this on all my prototypes cab. I'm convinced I get a better bond than with the PL, though both are polyurethane glues. PL is more of a thick, Liquid Nails type construction adhesive, while Gorilla is more of a wet glue. Gorilla needs a very small amount of moisture to cure. Most of the time, whatever is in the wood and air is plenty unless you live in a really dry climate, as I do. I just wipe one side of the joint with a damp rag. Getting the wood wet will result in the glue "foaming up" and result in a weaker over all joint. Both glues can be very messy to work with. One of the nice things about the Gorilla glue is that it sands pretty much like wood once it dries, so i don't worry about clean up at all while I put the cabinet together.