First - I play a lot of Acoustic gear - but NOT the B-100 combo.
If the website says the internal driver is in series with the output jack and NOT parallel, then the Ohms are additive, which is NOT what we do to express the total Ohms of two drivers in parallel.
OK -
series resistance, since it's additive - would be like this:::
4Ω + 8Ω = 12Ω
Parallel resistance goes like the following:::
4Ω & 8Ω (in parallel) = 2.6Ω ± a very tiny bit
Forget that the head 'see's Ohms since what's really happening is the ultimate load on the final side of the amp and it will 'see' what's happening no matter what the values.
If you exceed the minimum rating, then poof!
You get to see smoke.
The only reason we talk about Ohms is to correlate the total load on the amp for a given Wattage - that's the true bottom line.
So - if your amp is capable of true 100 Watts @ 4Ω, then you can not go below that rated resistance since that approaches a dead short (0Ω) to the finals of that particular amplifier and they WILL go smoke!
Adding more drivers in series will
numerically raise the Ohms in an additive way if indeed, you really are in series with the onboard driver.
Any time you numerically raise the Ohms, you will concurrently drop the total Wattage that is driving the speakers (the amp will 'relax' if you'll allow that phrase) - so you go down a corresponding amount that is simply algebraically expressed through Ohm's Law.
It's all a cosmic see-saw and when one goes up (and all other things stay equal) then the other goes down.
If I can believe my eyeballs and actually see the values on my ol' Ohmite slide rule, the true Wattage you might get with 12Ω, could end up at 60 Watts with that additional cab.
But then my eyes are tired, the numbers are small and I need a beer - so take that as a good guess until someone like BFM comes here to your rescue.