What kind of amp will power this aguilar?

[lx_night]

it is an Aguilar DB410 found here:
http://www.basscentral.com/2003/aguilar.shtml

I am pretty sure a Markbass head like this will power it right?
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Markbass...52-i1465107.gc

However i would like to find a power amp that powers this properly, so that i can use a Avalon U5 as a pre instead of the MB.

Your help will be greatly appreciated, i am on a short time period by the way.

[naturalkinds]

Any amp that turns on will power it. More watts, more volume. (In general.)

That's about all you need to know.

[lx_night]

Originally Posted by naturalkinds

Any amp that turns on will power it. More watts, more volume. (In general.)

That's about all you need to know.

Really but wouldn't more watts blow up the speaker?
or less watts underpowere it in a way?

What kind of amp would you use with this?

[rhopper]

Those two should work fine together

[Warrior_Bass]

Originally Posted by lx_night

Really but wouldn't more watts blow up the speaker?
or less watts underpowere it in a way?

What kind of amp would you use with this?

There's no effect of underpowering a cabinet. It just means that less watts is less output. Turning down the volume to practice levels on a big rig will not in any way damage it.

It is possible to overpower it, but usually your ears will notice that before it causes damage. It will sound distorted, and the low end will seem to diminish while the harmonics are accentuated.

Did you opt for the 4 ohm or 8 ohm version? How loud do you want to get? You could always get a 1K watt amp, just keep it turned down, and if you ever decide to add another 410, you've got the power to run them both.

[PSPookie]

Originally Posted by lx_night

Really but wouldn't more watts blow up the speaker?
or less watts underpowere it in a way?

What kind of amp would you use with this?

If you have to ask these kinds of questions, maybe you shouldn't be spending that kind of cheddar on your amp.

[lx_night]

oh ok.

The same applies for using a power amp right?
something like this:
http://www.guitarcenter.com/American...84-i1155803.gc

which means i will only get 600 watts of output right?

[lx_night]

i have not bought it yet but i am planning to buy it.
i want to make sure i dont over spend and want more than 400 watts.

[PSPookie]

Originally Posted by lx_night

oh ok.

The same applies for using a power amp right?
something like this:
http://www.guitarcenter.com/American...84-i1155803.gc

which means i will only get 600 watts of output right?

If you get the DB410 in the 8 ohm configuration, this power amp will feed it 600W RMS in bridged mono mode.

That's more than enough RMS power to push the cab but you might want more headroom for transient peaks.

Also the difference in volume between 600W and 700W will be barely noticeable. Keep in mind that doubling your wattage will only yield a 3dB increase in volume, all other factors remaining constant.

The DB410 is a failry efficient cab so if you need more volume than it can provide with 600W then you need more speakers.

[Warrior_Bass]

Originally Posted by lx_night

oh ok.

The same applies for using a power amp right?
something like this:
http://www.guitarcenter.com/American...84-i1155803.gc

which means i will only get 600 watts of output right?

You only get the wattage that comes out per side. You can "combine" the sides, called bridging, but it doesn't add up the two sides numerically. In your example, the bridged mode only runs in 8 ohms at 300 watts. Or you can run 200 watts per side. If you want more than 400 watts, you need to make sure the amp has 400 watts per side, or 400 watts bridged. You'd probably want even more than that...it's better to run a 800 watt amp at 50% than a 400 watt amp at 100%.

[PSPookie]

Originally Posted by Warrior_Bass

You only get the wattage that comes out per side. You can "combine" the sides, called bridging, but it doesn't add up the two sides numerically. In your example, the bridged mode only runs in 8 ohms at 300 watts. Or you can run 200 watts per side. If you want more than 400 watts, you need to make sure the amp has 400 watts per side, or 400 watts bridged. You'd probably want even more than that...it's better to run a 800 watt amp at 50% than a 400 watt amp at 100%.

If you read the "Specifications" tab it specifically lists the bridged mono output as 600W at 8 ohms.

[Warrior_Bass]

Originally Posted by PSPookie

If you get the DB410 in the 8 ohm configuration, this power amp will feed it 600W RMS in bridged mono mode.

Hmmm...the specs are different in the "At a Glance" tab from the "Specification" tab. I would think the "At a Glance" tab is the correct one. Two 200 watt channels bridge to make 600 watts? I've never seen that happen.

[PSPookie]

Originally Posted by Warrior_Bass

Hmmm...the specs are different in the "At a Glance" tab from the "Specification" tab. I would think the "At a Glance" tab is the correct one. Two 200 watt channels bridge to make 600 watts? I've never seen that happen.

It doesn't seem so uncommon to me: http://www.carvinguitars.com/poweramps/

[smogg]

If you're going to go the pre/power amp route, get something like this.
http://www.carvinguitars.com/product...oduct=DCM1000L
Get your cab in the 8ohm version so that later down the line you can add a second one if needed.

[Richard Lindsey]

Originally Posted by lx_night

Really but wouldn't more watts blow up the speaker?
or less watts underpowere it in a way?

What kind of amp would you use with this?

An amp isn't like a firehose. A 600 W amp doesn't necessarily deliver a constant 600 W stream. The rating is for the maximum available under the specified rating conditions. For example, it's possible to hook up a 1000 W amp to a 400 W cab, yet actually be using only around 100-150 W on average--depending on your playing situation and how loud you're trying to be.

It's like having a car that can do 100 mph. Just because it can, that doesn't mean that as soon as you turn the key, you're cruising at a constant 100 mph. It all depends on the job you're trying to do. Sometimes you're just moseying on down to the grocery store, stopping several times along the way; maybe you never go faster than 35. And sometimes you're cruising down the interstate at 75.

You were given good advice above. Any amp that turns on *can* power the cab. That's a non-issue, not worth worrying about. "Underpowering the cab" is a myth. What you need to think about, rather, is whether a particular combination of amp and cab can deliver the volume and tone you need for the playing situations you're going to be in. If you're playing acoustic jazz in small venues, or backing up folkies in coffeehouses, you don't need a huge amp to get the tone and volume you need. If you play in a metal band in big clubs without going through the PA, you may need a bigger amp.

But in either case, it's not that the cab "needs" to be powered by a certain size amp to work right. *You*, the player, might need an amp of a certain size to get what you need, but the cab doesn't need it.

[Richard Lindsey]

Originally Posted by Warrior_Bass

Hmmm...the specs are different in the "At a Glance" tab from the "Specification" tab. I would think the "At a Glance" tab is the correct one. Two 200 watt channels bridge to make 600 watts? I've never seen that happen.

It's pretty much standard for the 8 ohm bridged output to be double the 4 ohm per-channel output (not the 8 ohm per-channel output). If an amp puts out 500 W/channel at 4 ohms, it will do 1000 W bridged into 8 ohms.

[PSPookie]

Originally Posted by Richard Lindsey

An amp isn't like a firehose. A 600 W amp doesn't necessarily deliver a constant 600 W stream. The rating is for the maximum available under the specified rating conditions. For example, it's possible to hook up a 1000 W amp to a 400 W cab, yet actually be using only around 100-150 W on average--depending on your playing situation and how loud you're trying to be.

It's like having a car that can do 100 mph. Just because it can, that doesn't mean that as soon as you turn the key, you're cruising at a constant 100 mph. It all depends on the job you're trying to do. Sometimes you're just moseying on down to the grocery store, stopping several times along the way; maybe you never go faster than 35. And sometimes you're cruising down the interstate at 75.

You were given good advice above. Any amp that turns on *can* power the cab. That's a non-issue, not worth worrying about. "Underpowering the cab" is a myth. What you need to think about, rather, is whether a particular combination of amp and cab can deliver the volume and tone you need for the playing situations you're going to be in. If you're playing acoustic jazz in small venues, or backing up folkies in coffeehouses, you don't need a huge amp to get the tone and volume you need. If you play in a metal band in big clubs without going through the PA, you may need a bigger amp.

But in either case, it's not that the cab "needs" to be powered by a certain size amp to work right. *You*, the player, might need an amp of a certain size to get what you need, but the cab doesn't need it.

Well stated.

[lx_night]

Originally Posted by Richard Lindsey

An amp isn't like a firehose. A 600 W amp doesn't necessarily deliver a constant 600 W stream. The rating is for the maximum available under the specified rating conditions. For example, it's possible to hook up a 1000 W amp to a 400 W cab, yet actually be using only around 100-150 W on average--depending on your playing situation and how loud you're trying to be.

It's like having a car that can do 100 mph. Just because it can, that doesn't mean that as soon as you turn the key, you're cruising at a constant 100 mph. It all depends on the job you're trying to do. Sometimes you're just moseying on down to the grocery store, stopping several times along the way; maybe you never go faster than 35. And sometimes you're cruising down the interstate at 75.

You were given good advice above. Any amp that turns on *can* power the cab. That's a non-issue, not worth worrying about. "Underpowering the cab" is a myth. What you need to think about, rather, is whether a particular combination of amp and cab can deliver the volume and tone you need for the playing situations you're going to be in. If you're playing acoustic jazz in small venues, or backing up folkies in coffeehouses, you don't need a huge amp to get the tone and volume you need. If you play in a metal band in big clubs without going through the PA, you may need a bigger amp.

But in either case, it's not that the cab "needs" to be powered by a certain size amp to work right. *You*, the player, might need an amp of a certain size to get what you need, but the cab doesn't need it.

Well said!
You are right it just depends how much power i want.
This definitely helps me choose what amp i will be buying.
I guess my knowledge was wrong.