Will I blow my head up??

sonnet79 · #1 06-22-2010, 09:06 AM

Hi Guys,

I recently had my Trace Elliot AH300SMC head shipped from England to my new home out in California. My concern is that I may well fry it if I plug it in to an outlet.

What's your take on this? Obviously I'm only pushing half the voltage in to the amp over here, but is that going to have any negative effects?

Thanks guys!

S79

wideyes · #2 06-22-2010, 09:12 AM

Does it list 120v AC anywhere on the unit? Even if it doesn't, in all my international travels I haven't found anything that sustained damage from being undervolted.

sonnet79 · #3 06-22-2010, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wideyes

Does it list 120v AC anywhere on the unit? Even if it doesn't, in all my international travels I haven't found anything that sustained damage from being undervolted.

It does mention 120V AC but it has a little 230V sticker on it too which un-nerves me a bit. I'll take a picture when i get home and upload it.

Thanks for the input wideyes!

BassmanPaul · #4 06-22-2010, 09:48 AM

With a brief look at the schematic it would appear to have a dual primary on the power transformer. You will have to move the jumpers or rewire the primary for 120V. You will also need to fit a fuse twice the value of the existing fuse. Please do not plug your amp in until you have had these changes made.

Paul

rbonner · #5 06-22-2010, 09:52 AM

Exactly what Paul says.

BOB

IronLung1986 · #6 06-22-2010, 10:03 AM

before you plug anything in i would highly recommend having someone take a look at it in person. someone who really knows this stuff. you're probably not going to get a definitive answer on a forum like this.

sonnet79 · #7 06-22-2010, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassmanPaul

With a brief look at the schematic it would appear to have a dual primary on the power transformer. You will have to move the jumpers or rewire the primary for 120V. You will also need to fit a fuse twice the value of the existing fuse. Please do not plug your amp in until you have had these changes made.

Paul

Thanks Paul. Do you know where i might obtain the schematics? My guitarist owns his own repair shop and I should be able to get it converted for gratis if I could provide some documentation.

Thanks for all of your input guys!

dmusic148 · #8 06-22-2010, 11:31 AM

Paul's right- these changes are mandatory- the amp may very well go up in smoke without them, and certainly won't work. Undervoltage kills amps.

BassmanPaul · #9 06-22-2010, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonnet79

Thanks Paul. Do you know where i might obtain the schematics? My guitarist owns his own repair shop and I should be able to get it converted for gratis if I could provide some documentation.

Thanks for all of your input guys!

PM me with a proper email address and I'll send you what I have.

Paul

BassmanPaul · #10 06-22-2010, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IronLung1986

before you plug anything in i would highly recommend having someone take a look at it in person. someone who really knows this stuff. you're probably not going to get a definitive answer on a forum like this.

Apparently not!

sonnet79 · #11 06-22-2010, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassmanPaul

PM me with a proper email address and I'll send you what I have.

Paul

Thank you sir! PM sent.

BassmanPaul · #12 06-22-2010, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonnet79

Thank you sir! PM sent.

As is the schematic.

Paul

P.S. Welcome to North America. You'll find things very different over here than they were "back 'ome".

sonnet79 · #13 06-22-2010, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassmanPaul

As is the schematic.

Paul

P.S. Welcome to North America. You'll find things very different over here than they were "back 'ome".

In all honesty, I've been here almost three years now, but only just had the fortune to be able to obtain my old TE head!!

I hate to be a pain Paul, but you wouldn't happen to have the service manual for the 300 watt GP7 pre-amp? I think the manual you sent me was for a GP12?

Once again, many many thanks for all of your help on this!

S79

wideyes · #14 06-22-2010, 02:46 PM

I'm clearly outta my league here, but I would have imagined that as long as 120v is listed as a valid input on the official little "electrical sticker", things should be fine, unless there is some kind of trickery going on.

BassmanPaul · #15 06-22-2010, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wideyes

I'm clearly outta my league here, but I would have imagined that as long as 120v is listed as a valid input on the official little "electrical sticker", things should be fine, unless there is some kind of trickery going on.

The newer amps with switch mode power supplies have even more trickery! they'll run happily with anything from around 90 odd volts through 260 odd. Truly universal supplies.

Paul

Rick Auricchio · #16 06-22-2010, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wideyes

I'm clearly outta my league here, but I would have imagined that as long as 120v is listed as a valid input on the official little "electrical sticker", things should be fine, unless there is some kind of trickery going on.

The presence of conflicting information forces you to check to avoid damage.

sonnet79 · #17 06-22-2010, 10:21 PM

For the sake of clarity and anyone's curiosity, the back of the amp has printed next to where the power cable plugs in (A C14 Connector):

230V, 3.15A
115v, 6.3A

Underneath the C14 connector is a fuse compartment containing a 3.15A fast-blow fuse (the amp was last used in the UK where 230 is king!)

The part that confused me was a section where it was hand-written from the factory '230V' (the serial number and model are also hand-written in separate spaces). My complete layman's guess is that the handwritten '230V' is essentially just telling me what rating the above fuse is from the factory (just my guess, but also the reason I'm leaving the hard work to my learned friend!).

Either way, this is with my guitarist right now being disected. I purchased the amp around 1998. I remember the SMC series was relatively new at the time. At first glances earlier (over my friends shoulder, he gets protective when he works...did i mention he's a guitarist!!!

), i didn't notice any jumpers on the power board.

Either way, just passing on what I know. I'll keep everyone posted on any developments. Thanks everyone for your input so far, especially Paul for the Schems. You're a lifesaver!

will33 · #18 06-22-2010, 10:40 PM

"Will I blow my head up?"

Only if you don't wrap it in duct tape first.

Implosion · #19 06-22-2010, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonnet79

For the sake of clarity and anyone's curiosity, the back of the amp has printed next to where the power cable plugs in (A C14 Connector):

230V, 3.15A
115v, 6.3A

Underneath the C14 connector is a fuse compartment containing a 3.15A fast-blow fuse (the amp was last used in the UK where 230 is king!)

The part that confused me was a section where it was hand-written from the factory '230V' (the serial number and model are also hand-written in separate spaces). My complete layman's guess is that the handwritten '230V' is essentially just telling me what rating the above fuse is from the factory (just my guess, but also the reason I'm leaving the hard work to my learned friend!).

Usually electrical devices have those sort of labels with list of different regional voltages listed due to manufacturing reasons. It's easier to produce a single label with a multitude of options and then mark which is the correct one. As to opposite of producing lots of different kinds of labels. If I recall correct, my power amp has got four different voltage/frequency texts and the euro-version is checked to indicate the correct for the unit in question.

BassmanPaul · #20 06-23-2010, 11:21 AM

Look closely at the fuse housing and the IEC socket. Some of them have a link inside that changes the voltage taps. It's like a little black tab with 230 on one side and 115 on the other. If your amp is so equipped, you just pull the link out and replace it the other way up.

Paul