Will Insulation Improve A Cabinet's Tone?

[Crabby]

I have a Schroeder 1212BMF and have noticed lately that there is no insulation inside. Although this particular cab is loud as hell, there is a slight "boxiness" to the tone that is likely a result of the cab being so compact.

If I was to insulate the inside of the cabinet, what could I expect to happen to its tone? Would I be messing up the original design of the cabinet or could this be a significant improvement?

Would love to hear some thoughts on this.

[rpsands]

Almost without a doubt.

Use spray adhesive (3m) and quilt batting. Try to get it 1-2" deep along the walls, floor and top.

[rodl2005]

Yep. Always worked when I've done it. Reminds me, I've gotta do it to my Mark Bass HR151-took the horn & x-over out, & noticed it was bare in there. Always did sound a bit boxy. Taking the tweeter out worked a treat...this should help even more.

[Crabby]

Hmmm. I may have a weekend project to take on!

[Ric5]

Will Insulation Improve A Cabinet's Tone?

Usually ... depending on the design.

[BigOldHarry]

It really depends on the design... Is "Schroeder" a less-expensive brand? If so, they may have skipped that part... So give it a whirl; On top-dollar gear, if there is no insulation, there is likely a good reason - dig?

[Crabby]

Well the Schroeder's are pretty "boutique" cabinets with a design tailored to the bass player who needs a super lightweight and loud cab. I find it hard to believe that insulation would have been forgotten in the design which is why I don't want to mess around with the cab without having some experienced opinions.

[Hellbastard]

There's alot of information on this thread about lining the inside of cabs with acoustic material Just opened up my 210MBE...

[Crabby]

Thanks for the link. I got lost in the 20 something pages but wow, some good info. I feel like I would be crazy to not try putting some batting in my cab before deciding to keep it or not.

[will33]

Lining is mandatory for any ported cab to be considered even half decent or an "ok design" no matter who's name is on it or how much it costs. When we can do it for $10 at retail it's a sure sign of "cheaping out" on the build. That stands whether it says bergantino on the front or behringer or anywhere in between.

[MuzikMan]

You can't break the laws of physics with a badge, no matter how fancy it is.

[Crabby]

I am going to pick up some batting and give her a try and report back on the results.

[R Baer]

Personally, I find it hard to buy the manufacturer "cheaping out" theory, unless we are talking very inexpensive cabinets where hitting a specific price point is the main goal. On more expensive gear, it doesn't matter if I sell a cabinet for $475 without damping, or $480 with it. All the cost get passed to the end user regardless. I think on a lot of gear, it's the designer's choice to fully line, partially line, or not line at all. Everyone's got a different sound in their head they are trying to achieve.

That said, why not go ahead and try lining your cab and see what happens. You will either like the change, or you won't. I would suggest not gluing in the batting until you are sure you like the results. Staple it in to start and fully line everything but the back of the baffle. Stay out of the port areas. If you find the change too drastic, start removing sections of the batting until you get to a place where you like the tone. Try and keep one opposing wall covered. For example, if you pull the batting off the right side and need to take off more, leave the left side and instead remove the batting from the top or bottom. Good luck!

[billfitzmaurice]

Originally Posted by R Baer

Personally, I find it hard to buy the manufacturer "cheaping out" theory

That leaves ignorance of how to build a speaker as the alternative reason, which also doesn't give a warm and fuzzy. Neither explanation is acceptable.

[staindbass]

is the main reason for batting to keep the sound from reflecting off the inside walls and back out through the paper cone (delayed in time and phase) ? or does it help damping in a ported system. most polyester batting i have seen is not dense enough to absorb anything but treble. thick fiberglass insulation i have seen used alot.

[bassmeknik]

I've used "fiber fill" from the fabric stores (used to stuff teddy bears etc.) in cheap builds and been happy. Very inexpensive.

I have also used "Acoustastuff" from Parts Express. A bit more expensive, works...

[MuzikMan]

It is my understanding that the batting is to tame midrange reflections. It isn't intended to alter low frequency behavior.

[will33]

It stops reflections/cancellations inside the box. Typical box dimensions put it somewhere in the midrange meaning some of the mids you should be hearing get cancelled.
No lining = boomier/muddier/less clear.

Lined = clearer mids/less boom/smoother sound.

I say mandatory because what's the point of a box design that going to stop some of the sound the speaker is making? Same goes for poor bracing/resonating panels. The box is supposed to support/enhance the driver, not work against it.

Anecdotal evidence would be that almost everyone who adds lining to an unlined box says " wow, it sounds better now."

Pretty sure Bill could explain it in greater detail.

[will33]

I never thought of it like this until I started reading TB but we've all played in boomy/bad rooms at some point. That's due to boundry reflections and their distance from the sound source. The room is just a giant cabinet...or your cabinet is just a small room...same rules apply. The cab has small enough dimensions that put the problem high enough in frequency so foam lining will fix it. The room has large dimensions meaning longer wavelengths/lower frequencies are affected. That's why proper subwoofer placement can make or break you.

[Crabby]

I did a knock test on my cab last night and realized it really resonates on the sides but feels tight and solid on the top and bottom. I may have to consider some added bracing before adding the batting.