Woodworkers: Ever build a lighter cab/combo box to lighten the load?

Ben Esparza · #1 06-11-2011, 01:52 PM

I'm thinking about buying an SWR Workingman's 12 for URB and small portability...maybe even a Workingman's 15. Part of their budget pricing came from the fact that they are built out of particle board. As we all know (especially us older guys that used the old Fender and Ampeg gear), particle board is VERY heavy. I'm considering using my skills to build a clone cabinet out of 9 ply Birch in order to take a lot of the weight off. I'd take the combo apart and use the stripped cabinet as a template for the new one.

Has anyone ever done that with one of your heavier amps or cabs? Do you have pics to share of the project? How did you like the results? Please share your experiences.

lelandcrooks · #2 06-12-2011, 05:13 AM

1/2 ply bb or auraco is more than adequate for any cab. You just have to add internal bracing. Mfg's use 3/4 because it easier, doesn't require any bracing (or as much) reducing the number of parts and assembly time. Plus that's the way it's always been done. I've seen BFM cabs built out of 3/8.

gregoire1 · #3 06-12-2011, 06:02 AM

Ive considered this exact project myself! The Workingman Combos biggest flaw is usually they are beat-up, and terribly heavy. Rebuild it from light ply, and you've got a light, new looking, great sounding combo that'll drive an external cab.

billfitzmaurice · #4 06-12-2011, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lelandcrooks

I've seen BFM cabs built out of 3/8.

My next generation currently in Alpha stage are made of 1/4" and 1/8".

It's not what you make them of, it's how you make them.

ian_s · #5 06-12-2011, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billfitzmaurice

My next generation currently in Alpha stage are made of 1/4" and 1/8".

It's not what you make them of, it's how you make them.

Ooh, looking forward to that!

Down & Outman · #6 06-12-2011, 07:54 AM

Here's my 15" cab based off my old monstrous Sunn 2 - 15 bass reflex cab I had in the 70's. Found a JBL K-140 on ebay like I used to have and built it out of 1/2" sandply. Light and powerful. Yes it has a grill now, LOL! I've build several cabs out of 1/2" sandply. Works good. Finished it with shellac for a retro blonde look. If I were to go out on the road (work strange hours at my day job) I'd put tolex on it, but for here and there it works great.

Blues Bass 2 · #7 06-12-2011, 04:46 PM

Here's the way I built my new bass cabinet out of 1/2" birch . The braces are 1 1/2" wide and spaced to keep the panels all stiff . The cab is 20" by 23" by 15" deep just to give you a referance . If you build a new box out of 1/2" just remember to brace it enough and it will be just as good as a 3/4" cab less braced and a whole lot lighter .

Here is how it turned out :

MuzikMan · #8 06-12-2011, 06:01 PM

It has been suggested by some that cross bracing works better than placing strips along the inner walls. What are your thoughts on this?

billfitzmaurice · #9 06-12-2011, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MuzikMan

It has been suggested by some that cross bracing works better than placing strips along the inner walls. What are your thoughts on this?

The only way to know is to try it both ways. I have. Cross bracing like this is at least twice as effective as placing strips on the walls:

4Mal · #10 06-12-2011, 07:52 PM

I have a similar poject under way. I'm cloning a MojoSonic 1x10 using .5" as an air head. Space for a GK MB500. The head will be removable but for acoustic gigs, it will be grab 'n go.

**Chef** · #11 06-12-2011, 09:50 PM

@bill:
that's very awesome.

Munjibunga · #12 06-12-2011, 11:33 PM

@OP: Why not pop a neo driver in there while you're at it?

Petebass · #13 06-13-2011, 03:36 AM

I prefer cross bracing too but I usually get flamed for saying so even though ive tried it both ways and the loudmouths shooting me down haven't.

Also lighter wood is great, but with people getting even better results from cab construction using composite panels, it's something you should really look into if you are serious about weight savings.

Ben Esparza · #14 06-14-2011, 09:34 AM

Q 1: What size round-over router bit do you use to match the round-over radius of the plastic stacking corners?

Q 2: What do you use in order to get a seal between the speaker flange and the Duratex finish?

nikolozj · #15 05-18-2012, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Cross bracing like this is at least twice as effective as placing strips on the walls:

how does either influence on sound?