Restringing a LG-3005 to E-C, new nut?

davecheng · #1 09-25-2010, 03:19 PM

So I've been AWOL for quite a while. Too busy gigging and over the summer, driving across the country on the roadtrip to end all roadtrips.

But now that I'm more or less back in the groove at home, I'm thinking about converting my LG from B-G to E-C. (Due to the limitations of the search, it was difficult to determine if this has been posted before, so apologies in advance.)

I'm pretty competent at doing my own setups, intonation, and truss rod adjustments.

But would you recommend a new nut with an E-C conversion? I like my action as low as humanly possible.

Why E-C? I don't know. Something different to cure GAS for the time being, I suppose. I get tons of mileage from my Lakland now, and I'd like to use the LG for more melodic/solo work for which I think E-C and the higher register Roscoe warmth would be heaven.

Anyone ever try a super low action E-C conversion with the original nut with much success?

Darkstrike · #2 09-25-2010, 03:39 PM

My LG spends about half its time in E to C tuning(my SKB Fretless spent a small while there too), and I'm definatly a fan of low low action.

That said, I didn't touch the nut, and it was just perfect.

IIRC, in E to C, I had the action on the E at 2.5mm, tapering down to 1mm on the C, measured at the 24th fret, and with the neck having just slight relif.

Oh, it was E to C, but down half a step, I've even spent time in both DGCFBb, and Drop CGCFBb, all without adjusting that setup.

**Freddels** · #3 09-25-2010, 04:20 PM

You shouldn't have to touch the nut. I strung my Zon E - C and didn't touch the nut. I would think the Roscoe will be fine.

RocketMusic · #4 09-26-2010, 12:02 PM

As long as the strings aren't so loose in the nut slots that they can vibrate in there, you should be fine. I'd try it with the existing nut, and just listen really closely for any warblyness in the open string notes. If the open notes are not nice and pure, you might want to try a nut that's cut tighter for the new string guages.

I experienced this problem on my Koa 5 even in B-G tuning. My B string warbled like crazy. I tried a bunch of different B-string guages, I replaced the bridge, I futzed with the pickup heights, etc. Nothing cured the warble until I replaced the nut.

I could actually see the problem as well as hear it. My E-G strings all had nice, pretty well defined nodes on the string when the open string was plucked. But the B string had no nodes at all, the entire string was vibrating, pretty much randomly. There was no dominant fundamental pitch.

Good luck!

CrashClint · #5 09-26-2010, 12:06 PM

I actually did this to the Redwood LG3005 and had for a little while and didn't have to touch the nut, just had to adjust bridge saddles for height and intonation.

davecheng · #6 09-26-2010, 09:56 PM

Cool, sounds promising. Thanks guys. Now to order up a set of 6er Black Beauties...

davecheng · #7 09-27-2010, 10:09 PM

Couldn't wait and threw some D'Addario XL-170 strings on there with a .32 C. (Lucked out, didn't need the SL.)

Umm. Holy crap, what I have been missing all these years?!?

The trademark warmth and compressed midrange really sings through the higher register. I'm going to have to watch how much time I spend shedding on this bass, though, or I'm going to find myself soloing over everything soon...

Darkstrike · #8 09-28-2010, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davecheng

Couldn't wait and threw some D'Addario XL-170 strings on there with a .32 C. (Lucked out, didn't need the SL.)

Umm. Holy crap, what I have been missing all these years?!?

The trademark warmth and compressed midrange really sings through the higher register. I'm going to have to watch how much time I spend shedding on this bass, though, or I'm going to find myself soloing over everything soon...

This is exactly what happens me when I string my LG E to C, I spend way, way too much time up high!