Set up stuff... ??

PlanetEarth · #1 12-19-2009, 11:26 AM

Thought this was a good read... Just sharing...

http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=KGM...njvwzHIaoey9rg

lwrthnwhalepoop · #2 12-19-2009, 04:09 PM

Nice catch, Planet. For us geeks who like a "spec" to work from, this is a pretty comprehensive reference that puts it all in one place. It takes guesswork and hunches out of the process.

JOME77 · #3 12-20-2009, 05:42 AM

+1

Very cool!

...of course there are some guys on this forum that just raise and lower strings "Until it feels good".

Darkstrike · #4 12-20-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOME77

...of course there are some guys on this forum that just raise and lower strings "Until it feels good".

I do that, and then take measurements...

BD Bass · #5 12-29-2009, 08:42 PM

Wow.....thats freakin awesome, where I live , ya needs ta be yer own macanihc.............LOL

Thankful for players that find info I can use.......Much Grass

Gard · #6 12-30-2009, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JOME77

+1

Very cool!

...of course there are some guys on this forum that just raise and lower strings "Until it feels good".

If you're measuring and not playing - you're not playing.

Really, I'm not being defensive, nor am I casting aspersions on anyone else, but isn't it silly to worry about numbers?

"Who CARES what the numbers are?" is my mantra, what I care about is how does it feel?

It's like polishing your bass instead of playing it right?

"...ooooh, I got my G string at 1/64" at the 24th fret and no buzz!!!"

Nice, you spent 2 hours noodling around with the trussrod & the saddle on one string.

I learned 10 tunes, and got my brain wrapped around a new way to solo over a ii m7-V7-Imaj7 progression during that time, and my G string is at 3/128".....not that I have a clue that it is, because I got the neck set with a very small amount of relief, lowered the string until it buzzed, then raised it just a tiny bit until the buzz went away. Took me 5 minutes to set up my whole bass, then I was PLAYING it!

...no offense to anyone that is that into their setups, but I really don't see the value in it.

If it feels good, IT IS GOOD.

JOME77 · #7 12-30-2009, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gard

If you're measuring and not playing - you're not playing.

Really, I'm not being defensive, nor am I casting aspersions on anyone else, but isn't it silly to worry about numbers?

"Who CARES what the numbers are?" is my mantra, what I care about is how does it feel?

It's like polishing your bass instead of playing it right?

"...ooooh, I got my G string at 1/64" at the 24th fret and no buzz!!!"

Nice, you spent 2 hours noodling around with the trussrod & the saddle on one string.

I learned 10 tunes, and got my brain wrapped around a new way to solo over a ii m7-V7-Imaj7 progression during that time, and my G string is at 3/128".....not that I have a clue that it is, because I got the neck set with a very small amount of relief, lowered the string until it buzzed, then raised it just a tiny bit until the buzz went away. Took me 5 minutes to set up my whole bass, then I was PLAYING it!

...no offense to anyone that is that into their setups, but I really don't see the value in it.

If it feels good, IT IS GOOD.

I let the customer say "that feels great". I just make sure that I can replicate it every time.
And hey, a fellow has got to use whatever means they can to raise the money to buy those nice basses you guys build!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyBcHUe4WeQ

PlanetEarth · #8 12-30-2009, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gard

Really, I'm not being defensive, nor am I casting aspersions on anyone else, but isn't it silly to worry about numbers?

"Who CARES what the numbers are?" is my mantra, what I care about is how does it feel?

Knowledge is never a bad thing, how you choose to use/apply it is where questions of ethics (etc.) apply.

Why propose feel and measurement as being mutually exclusive? Rather, it's probably more prudent that they be mutually inclusive - one does not negate the other. The numbers may get you 90% of the way there 90% faster and feel the other 10% and/or vice versa.

So, the real question is: why *worry* about either, more importantly, don't *worry* period, do what works for you and/or your customer.

-PE

CrashClint · #9 12-30-2009, 12:20 PM

It was a good read, but like Gard I do not measure my string height. I get my neck straight (how I like it) then adjust my saddle height to where the string stops buzzing then I adjust the intonation.

I have set up over a dozen Roscoe basses for people in the Triangle area and have never had a complaint. Most people are amazed at how low you can get the action without any buzz.

I set up a SKB3006 for a DB player who lives in Wendell and when he came over to pick it up he had me raise the saddles because he was used to the high action of the DB and found himself digging in too hard to have a low action.

I think the MIM Jazz basses are the hardest to initially setup. It is really easy to over-shoot on the truss rod. They come setup horribly from the factory with a crazy amount of relief in the neck. It normally takes two days to adjust one so the neck can settle in properly in between adjustments.

LilRay · #10 12-30-2009, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrashClint

It was a good read, but like Gard I do not measure my string height. I get my neck straight (how I like it) then adjust my saddle height to where the string stops buzzing then I adjust the intonation.

I have set up over a dozen Roscoe basses for people in the Triangle area and have never had a complaint. Most people are amazed at how low you can get the action without any buzz.

I set up a SKB3006 for a DB player who lives in Wendell and when he came over to pick it up he had me raise the saddles because he was used to the high action of the DB and found himself digging in too hard to have a low action.

I think the MIM Jazz basses are the hardest to initially setup. It is really easy to over-shoot on the truss rod. They come setup horribly from the factory with a crazy amount of relief in the neck. It normally takes two days to adjust one so the neck can settle in properly in between adjustments.

Clint (and Gard),

How do you accurately obtain a straight neck? What's your procedure?

Is it an eye thing or ?

God Bless, Ray

Gard · #11 12-30-2009, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilRay

Clint (and Gard),

How do you accurately obtain a straight neck? What's your procedure?

Is it an eye thing or ?

God Bless, Ray

I eyeball it, the string itself is a perfect straightedge and you can sight along it to see how much relief/backbow you've got. With a minimum of experience, you can even see WHERE the relief or backbow is.

CrashClint · #12 12-30-2009, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilRay

Clint (and Gard),

How do you accurately obtain a straight neck? What's your procedure?

Is it an eye thing or ?

God Bless, Ray

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gard

I eyeball it, the string itself is a perfect straightedge and you can sight along it to see how much relief/backbow you've got. With a minimum of experience, you can even see WHERE the relief or backbow is.

Just what Gard said.

LightGroove · #13 12-31-2009, 07:02 AM

I hear ya guys...but numbers do give some parameters and a starting point for most of us. Also the advice he gives outside of the numbers is nice to...so if something isnt adding up..perhaps the neck is actually too straight or too back bowed.. etc

Ive noticed that the Roscoe truss seems to respond rather slowly. Like small increments (as recommended) dont appear to do very much...its very subtle...

As mentioned..some of your guys low is my medium or high and vice versa...Its such a personal thing.

Anyways ..i think the quote "to each their own" comes to mind

:0)

PlanetEarth · #14 12-31-2009, 07:35 AM

For the record - I don't measure either... Non-the less, doesn't mean I'm not open to other methods and knowledge. I don't think about the structure of scales when playing either, but I still know them - Solos come strictly from my head, but, once in a while there is that weird combination of chords that throws ya for a loop, personally I fall back on the book-smarts at that point, so I'm glad I have them. When I'm working in the studio it's my ear that guides me, but when you just can't track down that rouge frequency that's clashing with everything - the calculator comes out.... etc. etc. etc. YMMV!!

My life quest is knowledge, a good day is a day I learned something new, so perhaps I'm biased....

-PE

CrashClint · #15 12-31-2009, 08:34 AM

Like I said, I think it is a good read and for someone who is new to setting up a bass it does give good guidelines.

**Staccato** · #16 12-31-2009, 09:51 AM

Nice starting point if you want to learn...I suspect there's plenty that are fighting their setup, because they are new to bass (and adjustments-setup).

lwrthnwhalepoop · #17 12-31-2009, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PlanetEarth

For the record - I don't measure either... Non-the less, doesn't mean I'm not open to other methods and knowledge. I don't think about the structure of scales when playing either, but I still know them - Solos come strictly from my head, but, once in a while there is that weird combination of chords that throws ya for a loop, personally I fall back on the book-smarts at that point, so I'm glad I have them. When I'm working in the studio it's my ear that guides me, but when you just can't track down that rouge frequency that's clashing with everything - the calculator comes out.... etc. etc. etc. YMMV!!

My life quest is knowledge, a good day is a day I learned something new, so perhaps I'm biased....

-PE

+1

The feel and playability of a setup are the only things that matter. The measurements, if any, are just a means to that end.

I never measure either, but I might if I set up other folks' basses and wanted to be able to repeat a setup, or multiple setups, that person liked without much trial-and-error.