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  #1  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:14 AM
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Well... I'm now a member of the club!

Just arrived today... #5639... all the way from GERMANY!!!



This bass was acquired used, but there is NOT a mark on it... it is literally like-new... in PERFECT condition.

I got an amazing deal from a super nice guy... I'm totally blown away.

I'm speechless... it's BEAUTIFUL.

As per Gard, here are the specs:

SKB 3006 Left-handed
Exhibition Myrtle Burl top
Spanish Cedar body
Natural finish
Bartolini 3-band preamp
Bartolini/Roscoe pickups
19mm string spacing
Pau Ferro fingerboard
Diamondwood nut
Black hardware

It seems that all the travelling and cold air gave the neck a pretty serious back-bow... the G and C string are bottoming out pretty bad. I hope that's all it is and it's not warped or anything... any suggestions on what to check for?

Also... never had a bass with a Pau Ferro fingerboard before... is a lem-oil treatment once/twice a year required as I do with my rosewood boards?

I'm going INSANE!!!

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!!

  #2  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:34 AM
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NICE! Fertile myrtle, baby....YES! (Two of my Roscoes have myrtle tops...you could say I'm a fan. )

Congratulations to you. That is a gorgeous instrument. The top is amazing, but man....that headstock! You've got an absolute stunner there.

I little love with the truss rod wrench and you'll be all set. I'm seeing the same thing with all of my basses...over the past week, even in California, it's been a bit chilly.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2009, 10:49 AM
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Woah, congrats dude, thats a true beauty, if I ever saw one.


And Jerry, as usual is on the money, a little bit of truss rod work should have that backbow beat.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2009, 12:41 PM
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Great looking Roscoe! I love that myrtle top!

You may want the bass to sit for a few days before you adjust anything. I'd just tune it to std. pitch and let it get acclimated to
your climate for a few days and then adjust the truss rod and bridge saddles as required.

Lemon oil a couple of times a year works great on Pau Ferro finger boards.
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2009, 12:58 PM
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Addison, welcome to the family!

That's a very pretty bass!

Joe, it's the OTHER cut from the block your myrtle SKB5 was made from!


FYI: Lemon Oil = not the best choice, as it can dry the wood out.

We recommend this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting...shing_Oil.html

Of course, on maple, just a bit of whatever guitar polish you're using will do the trick.

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  #6  
Old 11-20-2009, 01:38 PM
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Will that ColorTone work on purpleheart, as well?

Of course, if you're really old-school, the fingerboard has enough chicken grease on it to protect it pretty well already...
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyV View Post
Will that ColorTone work on purpleheart, as well?

Of course, if you're really old-school, the fingerboard has enough chicken grease on it to protect it pretty well already...
NOTHING beats chicken grease.

...well, maybe BBQ sauce...



We treat purpleheart like maple, it's sealed, so unless the sealer is worn through it won't take the oil anyhow. If it's older and worn through, you can oil it and it will be fine.
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gard View Post
Addison, welcome to the family!

That's a very pretty bass!

Joe, it's the OTHER cut from the block your myrtle SKB5 was made from!
I wondered about that! I remember you posting some pic's of this one being built!

Brothers from the same mother!

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  #9  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:38 PM
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Since we're talking fingerboard oils, what about bubgina?

I've used Dunlop fretboard conditioner in the past...


Oh, and thats a lovely bass too Joe!
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkstrike View Post
Since we're talking fingerboard oils, what about bubgina?

I've used Dunlop fretboard conditioner in the past...


Oh, and thats a lovely bass too Joe!
Bubinga I'd oil, maybe once every 6 months to a year, depending on how it's looking.

The Dunlop stuff should work fine....
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Old 11-20-2009, 02:54 PM
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Might be a good idea for a posting of proper care of finger board woods covering the most popular woods used. Just thinking...
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gard View Post
Bubinga I'd oil, maybe once every 6 months to a year, depending on how it's looking.

The Dunlop stuff should work fine....
Cheers Gard.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gard View Post
Bubinga I'd oil, maybe once every 6 months to a year, depending on how it's looking.

The Dunlop stuff should work fine....
Would you recommend the Dunlop for all finger boards???
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:56 PM
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Beautiful.... Even if they did build it backward....
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2009, 02:59 PM
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I've been using Planet Waves Hydrate fingerboard conditioner on all of my basses including my Roscoes's. Good? Bad? let me know...
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:00 PM
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So since the *oil* can of worms has been opened - I noticed the link Gard posted mentions ebony as one of the applications.... Is this recommended? I've never done anything with the ebony on my uprights in the past but that's a different animal all together...
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  #17  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:03 PM
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I'm not familiar with any of the commercially prepared fingerboard oil treatments other than the Stew Mac oil I posted earlier. I would guess (but remember the ass/u/me rule) that it all is fine, or the companies wouldn't be marketing it as a fingerboard treatment.

Oiling won't hurt ANY board, finished or not, but open pored, unfinished woods are the ones that NEED it. Maple is a close-grained wood, and typically (like 99.999% of the time) it is finished, so oiling is pointless, it won't do a thing. We treat purpleheart like maple, so it's sealed. Otherwise, when the board begins to look and feel "dry", a small bit of oil or one of these treatments is a good idea....
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gard View Post
I'm not familiar with any of the commercially prepared fingerboard oil treatments other than the Stew Mac oil I posted earlier. I would guess (but remember the ass/u/me rule) that it all is fine, or the companies wouldn't be marketing it as a fingerboard treatment.

Oiling won't hurt ANY board, finished or not, but open pored, unfinished woods are the ones that NEED it. Maple is a close-grained wood, and typically (like 99.999% of the time) it is finished, so oiling is pointless, it won't do a thing. We treat purpleheart like maple, so it's sealed. Otherwise, when the board begins to look and feel "dry", a small bit of oil or one of these treatments is a good idea....
Thank you.
I'm happy now...
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  #19  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:09 PM
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Wow Joe...what fretboard is on that bass?....

Did I read the post correctly Dark...you have a bubinga fretboard?
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  #20  
Old 11-20-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightGroove View Post
Did I read the post correctly Dark...you have a bubinga fretboard?
Yup! I have one with a bubgina fretboard, but unlike Rickys(where you usually see them), its not coated in gloss.
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