What do you think the Wedge Neck adds?

[JOME77]

I've got my first Roscoe with the Wedge neck and have developed some opinions of what I feel it adds to a Roscoe and I'd like to hear an opinion on this subject from other Roscoe owners that have owned/played both.

Mine is the Wenge/Yellowheart/Maple/Yellowheart/Wenge Wedge Neck with a std. maple FB.

The advantages that I see thus far are:

1) Very stiff and stable - I haven't had the neck move at all since it arrived and I set it up. I suspect that it's a great combo with the maple FB which typically requires some additional stiffening.

2) Really nice looking from the rear! - I really like looking at it while I'm strapping up or cleaning my bass

3) Adds to the clarity and foucus of the tone of the bass - I suppose that this is more of a theory than fact but I believe that this is true with the wenge wedge neck.

4) I like the addition of the volute - It looks classy and adds strength to a somewhat fragile area of the neck (probably more so on instruments that have the truss rod adjustment at the headstock)

The only disadvantages that I can think of would be the fairly inflated price of $600 with the SKB or LG ($500 maple/purpleheart/maple). Probably a better bang for the buck with the Century Signature model.

I'm a bit puzzled why mine doesn't have the mother of pearl R on headstock.....

[poptart]

Joe

I just had one of my first stock basses with a Wenge Wedge Neck and it was a superb bass full stop, but the neck had a really nice feel because of the more tactile wenge plus it did have a really tight/strong feel to it.

An expensive option, and I am sure reflected in the extra costs to manufacture, but aesthetically very pleasing and I love the volute and Pearl R (if you get one!)

Mark

[allenhumble]

Is it worth the expense? Would you do it agian?

[poptart]

I believe it depends on your budget, you can pay a lot extra on electronics or high grade wood tops so it depends on what you want. I think it is a really nice and very unusual/subtle feature that adds something special to a bass.

I would probably not order another stock bass with one, but having had and played one would recommend it to anyone.

Mark

[JPJ]

I'm a bit puzzled why mine doesn't have the mother of pearl R on headstock.....

Hey Joe,
There is a bit of confusion about the MOP "R" inlay. It isn't necessarily a "standard" thing as is done more on an ad-hoc basis. For instance...most Roscoe basses have dark headstocks to where the light, MOP inlay would look great as a contrast. Most of my Century Sigs (and I think I've sold and stocked just about as many Century Sigs as anybody out there in recent history), have arrived with MOP "R" headstock logos simply because most of my basses have had dark headstock overlays. However, if the headstock/top are light colored, then the guys are Roscoe will likely go with a darker inlay for a better contrast. This is likely since the MOP inlay would simply disappear (or would be very difficult to see) against a lighter color or wood surround.

Concerning Allen's question, I've ordered a good number of Roscoes with wedge necks (and wenge wedge necks) and will continue to do so. I've also had a decent number of customers request them on custom orders for LGs and SKBs and am sure that this trend will continue. However, I tend NOT to order LGs and SKBs with wedge necks as stock pieces because of the addes cost. It's not necessarily that I don't think that it's "worth it", but I do try to be mindful of the average player's budget. If someone REALLY wants a wedge neck, then a custom order is a fairly easy process to traverse. If they don't, then I have a lot of standard LGs and SKBs for them to choose from.

Lastly, back to Joe's question. I really like the wedge necks, and wenge wedge necks, both for stability, tone, AND beauty. Admittedly, I think that their beauty is one of the design's best features and LOVE the look. However, they are also a very rigid and stable neck. I have noticed slight tonal differences depending on which type of "core" wood is used (I've experienced bolivian rosewood, lightly figured maple, wenge, cocobolo, and yellowheart...I think that's an inclusive list), and while all were similar, there were slight differences between some of the woods. Nevertheless, I would tend to agree with Joe's description of the Roscoe wedge neck in a generic sense.

[JOME77]

Originally Posted by JPJ

However, if the headstock/top are light colored, then the guys are Roscoe will likely go with a darker inlay for a better contrast. This is likely since the MOP inlay would simply disappear (or would be very difficult to see) against a lighter color or wood surround.

Jay,
Thanks for the explanation. I wondered if the fact that the wood was lighter had anything to do with it.

[Ryan L.]

Sorta OT, but I'll ask here anyway:

Is it possible to get, say, a wenge/maple/wenge neck, without it being a wedge neck?? In other words, a "standard" style Roscoe neck, but with wenge in place of the maple, and something like maple in place of the purpleheart center stripe. I probably know the answer already, but I figured I'd ask anyway.

[Gard]

Originally Posted by Ryan L.

Sorta OT, but I'll ask here anyway:

Is it possible to get, say, a wenge/maple/wenge neck, without it being a wedge neck?? In other words, a "standard" style Roscoe neck, but with wenge in place of the maple, and something like maple in place of the purpleheart center stripe. I probably know the answer already, but I figured I'd ask anyway.

If you were thinking the answer was no, you did indeed know the answer already...sorry man.

We can do a standard neck with a maple/wenge/maple arrangement, but the only way we do wenge/maple/wenge is the wenge wedge.

[Ryan L.]

Oh well, figured I'd ask anyway. I guess a wedge neck it'll be, then, when the day comes. And I *think* there's maybe starting to be light at the end of that tunnel...................

[JOME77]

Originally Posted by Ryan L.

Oh well, figured I'd ask anyway. I guess a wedge neck it'll be, then, when the day comes. And I *think* there's maybe starting to be light at the end of that tunnel...................

......I sure hope that it's not a train!

[Gard]

Originally Posted by JOME77

......I sure hope that it's not a train!

If it is, duck!

(And for cryin' out loud, don't do what my little sister did when she was a kid, yell "QUACK!" just as she runs under the counter she USED to fit under until just that day and my dad noticed it, and yelled "Duck!" at her...OUCH! )

[Eric Perry]

I apologize in advance for the question... But what exactly is a wedge neck?? What differentiates a wedge neck for a standard neck? I've seen it written on here before and wrote it off as a mis-typing of Wenge. Obviously I was wrong.

Sorry again for the seemingly elementary question.

[Gard]

Eric -

I'm at home right now (got two kids projectile vomiting, mom had a MUST go to work day, so I'm babysitting until she gets home about noon...), so I'll try to describe the differences without "visual assistance". If necessary, I'll post some photos to reinforce things later (maybe someone else will jump in before I get the chance...).

Our standard neck is made of three pieces of wood, two large maple and one smaller purpleheart. All three pieces are made so that the width is equal from one end to the other, so it just looks like a neck with a straight purpleheart center lamination.

On either the wenge wedge or wedge necks, the center block of wood is made with a taper that runs from wide at the heel/neck joint to narrower at the headstock, the two side blocks are made as above. This gives the appearance of the center being "wedge shaped", and gives the neck it's name.

As for the increased cost, it is caused by three factors:

First, making the neck blanks takes considerably more labor/time, which as well all know time = money.

Secone, the woods used for the centers and the stringers of our standard wedge or the sides and stringers of the wenge wedge (the wedge is a true 5 piece neck) are more expensive than the standard woods.

Third, when we make our standard block, because all of the pieces of wood in the neck are parallel, you can cut out blanks (for more info on how we do this, see the sticky thread "Sticking Our Necks Out") with the headstock at either end of the block, allowing us to get the maximum yield out of the block, usually about 5-7 blanks, with a solid 6 average. With the wedge blocks, we can only cut them with the headstocks at one end, and can thus only get about 3-5 blanks, with a solid average of 4 per block.

Hope this helps clear things up a bit...now, back to cleaning up....WHAT IS THAT?!?!?!?!?!?




...I can't wait to get in to work today!!!!

[CrashClint]

Originally Posted by Gard

Eric -

I'm at home right now (got two kids projectile vomiting, mom had a MUST go to work day, so I'm babysitting until she gets home about noon...)

Well as long as they are not sitting up in bed projectile vomiting pea soup with their heads spinning around 360 degrees and saying, "Get Out" in a deep demonic voice you should be ok.

Just incase I have a B.A. in B.S. and can perform the exorcism for a hefty sum.

[Eric Perry]

Originally Posted by Gard

Eric...

Gard, thanks a TON for writing the long explanation. Certainly wasn't necessary with the little'ns being sick and all!

I think I get it now. A pic would speak a proverbial thousand words. Any takers?

Oh and Gard, hope they feel better, man!

[JOME77]

Originally Posted by Eric618

I think I get it now. A pic would speak a proverbial thousand words. Any takers?

Oh and Gard, hope they feel better, man!

Sure!

The bass on the left has a wedge neck and the bass on the right has a standard neck.

[JOME77]

...and here's a close up of the wedge on mine.

[Eric Perry]

Makes WAAAYYY more sense now. Thanks guys!